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Thread: Miter Saw Station

  1. #1

    Miter Saw Station

    So I have been wanting a metal, pre engineered miter saw station for a while now. I sm curious as to who all makes them? I need something very accurate. I have been using Fast Cap’s bench mount Best Fence system with their precision adjustment blocks and two of their 64” fences for several years now and I am just not happy with it. There is too much play in the precision adjustment blocks and the fences don’t seat very well in them either. I struggle to get them level and flat due to this. I am not sure if they have updated their precision adjustment blocks but I am ready to move on.

    The only miter saw stations that I sm aware of are Original Saw Company and Razerguage. I am not considering the flimsy stands offered by Rousseau or Bora or Portamate as they are not as accurate and don’t have the length that I need. I am heavily leaning towards the Original Saw Company setup with one of their 8ft fences.

    Am I missing anything? Are there any other companies that make a heavy duty miter saw station?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Have you considered building one yourself? I went to the website of one of the companies you mentioned and was blown away at the price. I'm not knocking their product, but at that price I could build a custom set of cabinets with storage and other emitities that would blow those away and save a ton of money to boot. Just curious, definitely not a slap on your decision.
    My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".

    SWE

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
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    1,563
    Curious what you do at the miter station that requires precision? I built Norms version and use it as a chop saw station to break down 8ft lumber into shorter pieces for milling. I always finish cut 99% of my work on the table saw for finished length. Thanks Brian

  4. #4
    I have Dewalt DWX723 stand. It came with the saw. The stops that came with the stand are too flexible for accurate repeat cuts. I added plywood extension tables on both sides. The tables are attached with extra Dewalt brackets that I bought. I added an aluminum fence with flip stops. The flip stops are too flimsy for my work also so I usually clamp a scrap of wood to the fence for a stop. As shown the saw is accurate enough for cabinet work. I use the saw a lot more than I expected.
    855AE1A7-0F96-4155-976B-491797AE32FF.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    There is such a range of solutions for this kind of thing, from the simpler, less expensive stands like the Bora that I own up to an uber-nice Cut Station type arrangement. This is assuming portability is really important to you. If you intend for the setup to be stationary, I'd suggest consideration of something built-in as has already been mentioned, especially if you want to somehow deal with dust/chip collection from the tool which is difficult in any setup. BTW, you do not need a long fence and a long fence can actually create challenges with some material. A long support surface...very handy...but a short fence makes cutting things that are "less than straight" a lot safer without compromising accuracy for crosscutting actually straight material.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
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    Lake Orion, MI
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    Those Original Saw Company extension tables are very excellent in appearance - maybe you get a package deal along with one of their heavy duty 16" RAS = excellent tax write off. Another option would be for you to design what you want & have a local welding/manufacturing shop fabricate it for you.

  7. #7
    I looked at the RazorGage and Original Saw Company and realized you are looking for a production tool rather than a small shop tool. Perhaps Omga Inc. would be useful if just for comparison. I only know of them but they have high-end, automated equipment.

    https://www.omgainc.com/3-optimizing-cut-off

  8. #8
    Robby,
    You're missing Tigerstop. They have everything you just asked for, and more.

    https://www.tigerstop.com/

    jeff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    New Hampster, USA
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    130
    Have you considered using 80/20? They have plans for a miter saw station and you can have one spec'd for you by a dealer. Fairly expensive but with the price of plywood maybe not as expensive at it used to be. https://youtu.be/SpmeULDlAlY or https://youtu.be/Hiq6ahntl5E

    If you want a steel stand then buy an old craftsman RAS that includes the stand for $50, separate the stand from the saw, and give the saw away.
    Last edited by Holmes Anderson; 04-18-2022 at 6:07 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
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    3,895
    Bobby:

    I also have the Fast Cap Best Fence system for my Kapex. Yes the stops move. They sent me a replacement. No difference. I just keep two very small Irwin Quick Grip clamps near the stop and after I set it, I clamp them down. Takes just a few seconds and works well. And yes, you shouldn't have to do this.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    I use whatever lumber is around, some clamps, and this 1 x 6, It works with both of my saws.


    IMG_0486.jpg IMG_0487.jpg
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 04-18-2022 at 7:54 PM.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
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    Lake Orion, MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Mcmurry View Post
    I use whatever lumber is around, some clamps, and this 1 x 6, It works with both of my saws.

    Attachment 477792 Attachment 477793
    Hello Maurice, Your attachments are invalid format according to site.

  13. #13
    Look at using a section of an aluminum extension ladder for your base. We used one for years when doing trim. Saw sat on a board that fit between rails, and could be slid left or right. Locked in place using 2" C clamps. Stops were done the same way, as support wasn't need for entire length of molding. Sat on some folding saw horses.

  14. #14
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    Mar 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Mcmurry View Post
    I use whatever lumber is around, some clamps, and this 1 x 6, It works with both of my saws.


    IMG_0486.jpg IMG_0487.jpg
    Thanks ! Great practical idea for economic savings.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    Look at using a section of an aluminum extension ladder for your base. We used one for years when doing trim. Saw sat on a board that fit between rails, and could be slid left or right. Locked in place using 2" C clamps. Stops were done the same way, as support wasn't need for entire length of molding. Sat on some folding saw horses.
    A ladder is a good, sturdy, long, and straight base.

    It is nice that the designers of my two saws had the good old USA in mind. The old Mikita base is 2 1/4 inch tall (= a 2x and a 1x). The De Walt base is 3 1/2 tall (= a 2x4 on edge or a 4 X 4)
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 04-18-2022 at 11:23 PM. Reason: bases = to dimensional lumber
    Best Regards, Maurice

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