Cole Chuck and Bandsaw Question

[John Kananis]

Neil, how deep of a recess do you work with? (I'm assuming you leave the entire recess intact - unless I misread)

[Neil Strong]

Neil, how deep of a recess do you work with? (I'm assuming you leave the entire recess intact - unless I misread)

About 3/32"/2mm on smaller pieces up to 8" diameter and progressively deeper, up to 3/8"/5mm, on the largest diameter platters and bowls. You don't need a very deep recess if you have genuine dovetail jaws (without a small chamfer on the edge) and, of course, turn without getting catches... :~}

I sometimes go deeper on some pieces, not so much for the mechanics of holding the piece but if I think the visual design needs it.

The thickness of the foot also needs to be proportional to the diameter of the piece, not only for aesthetic purposes but also to ensure that there is enough wood there to hold the outward thrust of the dovetail jaws. This will very a bit depending on the wood.

Only the jaw bearing area (which will vary with the jaws you are using) needs to be flat inside the foot, so proportionally quite a narrow ring. The remainder of the recess area is design territory that can be simple or elaborate as you wish (beading, chattering, knurling, carving, gold leaf, etc) as long as it doesn't protrude out further than the foot.

I tend to follow the curve of the inside of the bowl, so that the thickness of the bowl follows all the way through. This results in a small slightly domed and decorated area where I put my mark. But, you would mostly know from the design that I was the turner by just looking at the foot without my mark.

The foot is one other area where you can apply your individual design style and turning skills.

[John Kananis]

Very cool, thank you for your detailed answer.