Glue options for hand tool window sash

[Jim Koepke]

This is interesting, I was having some anxiety over "how much draw is too much", I would hate to split my new work. I am now leaning toward the clamp and bore method you describe. Curious, do you take squared stock to make rounded pegs by shaving them or use dowels? Also do you leave some squareness to the last part of the peg to be driven in? This is some videos seem to show. I also like the idea if I do split something I can repair one piece instead of a total redo.

If everything fits together, very little draw is needed. A 1/16" would be a lot.

From reading old articles on draw boring the center of the pin's hole should be ~2 diameters of the pin from the edge of the piece with the mortise, a 3/8" pin would be centered about 3/4" from the edge. The tenon needs to be long enough that it doesn't blow out in the other direction which is part of the reason for not having an enormous amount of draw.

One of my projects using draw bore mortise and tenons was more of a learning experience for me > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262272

Instead of the traditional method of making my pins with a chisel they were made with a dowel forming tool. Also mine were made of fully dried wood. My recollection is the stock was riven from pieces of scrap.

The gate has held together well through four years of use.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I've never found tapered pins in any of the old sash, wainscoting, and doors I've taken apart here. Most of the time they drive out pretty easily, and I've not found any that only wanted to go one way. I only work within 10 miles of home, so maybe the workers learned from each other.