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Thread: Jointer Taper Issue

  1. #1

    Question Jointer Taper Issue

    Hello,

    I've got a "new" to me 1940's Walker Turner/Craftsman jointer. I am having some issues and this is the first jointer I have used. Please bare with me as I am new to wood working.

    The first issue is when I use it, the front end of the board is planed away more than the back end of the board. Pretty much giving me a taper at the front end of the board. Doing some more research, it suggests my tables may not be co-planar. If that is the case, which table do should I use a my "source" for my measurements? In other words, if I use the infeed table as my reference and have the outfeed table match it? Both tables are on dovetails.

    Is there anything else I should check before shimming my jointer?

    I do have a Fulton 50" bar coming so that I can take measurements.

    Thank you,
    K Murphy

  2. #2
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    You may be able to find a relevant manual here:
    http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex...x?id=808&tab=3

    But generally speaking, I'd get the outfeed aligned to the knives and level (though technically it doesn't need to be level, just flat and aligned/coplanar with the cutting head/ knives). Then raise the infeed and adjust it to be coplanar with the outfeed. At "zero" depth of cut you should get a straight line from the indeed across the blades and then across the outfeed.
    Last edited by Patrick Varley; 04-05-2022 at 1:58 PM.

  3. #3
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    The tapered cut you describe means you need to lower the outfeed table. Try this method lower the outfeed lower then the infeed table. Take a cut on a fairly straight board until 3 or 4 inches hangs out over the outfeed. Raise the outfeed until it barely touches the bottom of the board.
    Don’t mess with shimming the table alignment until your absolutely positive it’s needed.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  4. #4
    Sounds to me like it’s not “climbing” ….which is a most common and vexing problem. But in this case I think it’s a too LOW problem.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    The tapered cut you describe means you need to lower the outfeed table. Try this method lower the outfeed lower then the infeed table. Take a cut on a fairly straight board until 3 or 4 inches hangs out over the outfeed. Raise the outfeed until it barely touches the bottom of the board.
    Don’t mess with shimming the table alignment until your absolutely positive it’s needed.
    Good Luck
    The taper is being caused by the out feed table being lower than the top of the cutter path. The procedure Andrew outlines above should solve your problem. If you raise the out feed too much, the end of the board will hit the edge of the out feed table and you should feel it hit or drag a bit. While you are at it, wax your in feed and out feed tables which will make the boards slide more smoothly across the table.

    You want just enough pressure on the piece you are cutting to hold it against the fence and down on the table. As soon as you have about half of the board on the out feed table you want to move your hand to the out feed side of the cutter one at a time while continuing to push the board.

    With the power disconnected, you can check the outfeed to cutter height by placing an aluminum torpedo level on the out feed table with the magnet side away from the table. Place one end so it is just past top dead center of the cutter axis. Then slowly turn the cutter by hand in the normal direction of rotation. As the cutter comes to the top, it should just touch the torpedo level and move it toward the front of the jointer about 1/16 inch. If it moves more than that raise the out feed table a small amount and test again. If it doesn't move at all, lower the table slightly. Check all of the cutting edges to insure that the level moves about the same amount. This procedure may not work on a carbide insert cutter head.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 04-05-2022 at 4:34 PM.
    Lee Schierer
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  6. #6
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    If you don't have a jig to set the blade height dead even with the outfeed table you can make one. I used a 1 2 3 block with a Harbor freight dial gauge bolted to it. Solved all my problems.

  7. #7
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    2nd vote for too much down pressure on the front end of the board assuming a reasonable set up. Don't shim Yet, set out feed height even with blade height and Infeed barely below cutter head and with light pressure run a piece multiple passes.
    Brian

  8. #8
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    The first thing to do is to check if the tables are coplaner. Everything else is secondary and of little/no benefit if they aren't.

    John

  9. #9
    Thank you all for the advice. I will be giving it a go over the next couple of days.

    Keven

  10. #10
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    When I first starting using a jointer I had the same problem. It was caused by my technique. So much of the outcome of using a jointer is how hard you push and in what direction. I would measure the outfeed table to the top of the cutter, but not be surprised if its actually set up right. Why would it not be ? Its perfectly normal in my opinion when new to a jointer to make triangles and tapers due to how your pushing .. Its like riding a bike, it comes with some practice.

  11. #11
    Thanks all. I followed Lee's advice. Turns out the knives where all over the place. I reset the knives and everything is working correctly now.

    I figured the knives were set properly as it came from a wood working shop.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keven Murphy View Post
    Thanks all. I followed Lee's advice. Turns out the knives where all over the place. I reset the knives and everything is working correctly now.

    I figured the knives were set properly as it came from a wood working shop.

    A former "wood working shop" that is ..... : > )

  13. #13
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    I'm glad you got it working.

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