Cherry Coffee Table Finishing Opinions

[Rick Hickman]

I would like to thank everyone for commenting. I threw down a test coat of Arm-R-Seal on some scrap I had kicking about after the glue up. I think I am going to go with that finish on this table. I will keep in mind your comments @Jeff Roltgen going forward .

Any key tips that can help me with the application of the Arm-R-Seal? I won't put down a coat of shellac. I still have a couple of steps to go before finish, but I am hoping to start laying coats down come Thursday or Friday.

[John TenEyck]

The simplest approach is to just wipe ARS on with a blue shop paper towel. Three or 4 coats is often enough if you sanded to 180 or 220, might take an extra coat if you stopped at 150. Scuff sand between coats with 320 or 400 grit to knock off any nibs.

If you want a thicker film you can start by applying one to three coats with a brush, enough to give a complete film. Let that cure a few days until you can sand it back dead flat. Then wipe on 2 or 3 thin coats.

The key with any wiping varnish is to work quickly and do not go back over it in hopes of fixing any spot that's just not perfect. That usually just makes it worse. It's better to let it dry as is, sand it flat, and then apply another coat.


John

[Rick Hickman]

Alright perfect. If there are trouble spots, don't go back and touch them but should they flow out on their own?

I have gloss ARS that I would like to rub out at the end to satin, at most semi gloss. I guess I will bring that up when we get there ☺️ thanks John, and everyone else who has chimed in

[Dennis Jarchow]

For sprayed finishes, I mostly use Target Coatings products including EM6000, EM7000, EM2000, EM8000cv. For cherry, I tend to oil and seal with was free shellac and use whichever coating is appropriate for the project. Keep in mind that EM2000 and EM8000cv have a "warmer" color already and the crosslinker can be used with either. The EM8000cv is very durable with the crosslinker, too, once it's fully cured.

Jim, do you have any pictures of cherry you have done with this schedule? Especially with EM8300 or EM2000? Thanks!

[John TenEyck]

Alright perfect. If there are trouble spots, don't go back and touch them but should they flow out on their own?

I have gloss ARS that I would like to rub out at the end to satin, at most semi gloss. I guess I will bring that up when we get there ☺️ thanks John, and everyone else who has chimed in

If you miss a spot it may flow out and create a contiguous film but it may not if the area not covered is too large. But that's OK, just scuff sand and apply another coat. It will blend in. If you have some really bad defects that don't fill in smoothly with the next coat let it cure a couple of days, then sand it flat with your ROS, and resume wiping on coats of finish.

John

[Jim Becker]

Jim, do you have any pictures of cherry you have done with this schedule? Especially with EM8300 or EM2000? Thanks!

Most recent...our former kitchen table top, now my desk



2007 - one of a pair of vanities in the master bath at our old property

[Holmes Anderson]

I sealed this one with a tinted shellac (sprayed), then applied ArmRSeal. I despise BLO b/c of the smell and drying time.

Attachment 477161

Which technique did you use to apply the ArmRSeal and what abrasives were used to complete the finish?

[Prashun Patel]

Keep this in mind: You are not so much laying down finish as you do with a brush. You are wiping the surface broadly and lightly. On a table top, I like to dip a whole blue towel sheet into a bowl of the wiping varnish, squeeze it gently out so it is saturated but not dripping. Then unfold it and wipe on broad, overlapping, quick figure eights. Don’t go with the grain. Don’t go back over spots, and don’t try to pop bubbles. If you move quickly enough? Streaks and bubbles will rectify themselves.

[Dennis Jarchow]

Jim, thanks. Those look great!

[Rick Hickman]

It's surface prep time. I was waylaid with some health issues, but am back to building.

- I've sanded the table to 220, I have to scrape some tear-out, do I need to go any higher than 220?

- When I apply the first coats of ARS with a brush, just wipe in long strokes, with minimal overlap? How long between coats?

- Once the brushing layers are complete, and they have cured for 5-7 days lets say, I knock it back with 4-600 grit I assume then wipe on 3-4 coats, with how much time in between?

- Can the table see light use after the brush coats? My girlfriend is getting a little impatient but I am sure she will appreciate the finish either way

[Rick Hickman]

I'm not sure where my first response went, and it's a little upsetting because I had a few key questions (in my own mind lol); regardless, after some time away from the shop, I am back to working on the table, and have a few questions.

- What grit do I take the Cherry to before hitting it with the ARS? I have taken it to 220, and can go higher if necessary

- Brushing on the first few coats of ARS, I assume don't overlap them, long brush strokes? How long do I wait in between coats (brushed, and wipe on)? Do I knock the brushed layers down between coats? or just the wipe on?

- While I let the brushed on coats dry, if it has passed the fingernail-test, can I use the table lightly, before I wipe on the final coats that will be rubbed out?

Thanks everyone!

Edit; somehow I was able to interject a response at post #7 I believe.. don't know how to remove it. Hopefully this post is in the right order of the thread!

[Prashun Patel]

Rick-
I thought about replying, but brushing ARS just isn't my chosen method.

Here's how I'd do it if I were you:

Sand to 600.
Wipe on ARS, 2 coats a day. One first thing in the morning, one sometime after work.
After 3 coats, sand lightly with 600. Repeat.

After 15 years, I see no reason to brush any more unless you enjoy the experience. Especially if you want a low build finish like Jim has shown, brushing is a waste of time.

[mark mcfarlane]

I am a frequent ARS user, it's my go to finish.

I typically sand to 150 and slop on the first ARS coat heavy using a foam brush. Contrary to good finishing principles, I go back and re-brush the really wet parts that aren't soaked in within 15 minutes or so, basically re-spreading the finish into dryer/thinner areas. It's never been a problem for me on the base coat doing this re-brush and I tend to get all the grain filled on the first coat. Wait a day, lightly sand to 320, then the wipe-on coats start, with a "320 hand sand - vacuum - air blower - tack cloth" between coats.

I don't think you need to over think the application of ARS, it seems to work well no matter how it is applied, which I suspect is why so many people love it.

Regarding ARS over cherry, it's a little too light for my taste. A coat or two of garnet shellac under the ARS looks pretty awesome, although I am surprised how fast the cherry is darkening in my living room.

Ask me in 5 years if the garnet shellac was a good idea.

Living Room Remodel-2.jpg

I made some QSWO end tables coated in just ARS about 5 years ago. Still looking like new. Granted, a coffee table will get more abuse.

[Rick Hickman]

I am a frequent ARS user, it's my go to finish.

I typically sand to 150 and slop on the first ARS coat heavy using a foam brush. Contrary to good finishing principles, I go back and re-brush the really wet parts that aren't soaked in within 15 minutes or so, basically re-spreading the finish into dryer/thinner areas. It's never been a problem for me on the base coat doing this re-brush and I tend to get all the grain filled on the first coat. Wait a day, lightly sand to 320, then the wipe-on coats start, with a "320 hand sand - vacuum - air blower - tack cloth" between coats.

I don't think you need to over think the application of ARS, it seems to work well no matter how it is applied, which I suspect is why so many people love it.

Regarding ARS over cherry, it's a little too light for my taste. A coat or two of garnet shellac under the ARS looks pretty awesome, although I am surprised how fast the cherry is darkening in my living room.

Ask me in 5 years if the garnet shellac was a good idea.

Living Room Remodel-2.jpg

I made some QSWO end tables coated in just ARS about 5 years ago. Still looking like new. Granted, a coffee table will get more abuse.

Do you rub out the ARS? I really want satin, I don't want the gloss that I purchased. How long between the wipe-on coats? Love how that Cherry looks, my goodness!

Rick-
I thought about replying, but brushing ARS just isn't my chosen method.

Here's how I'd do it if I were you:

Sand to 600.
Wipe on ARS, 2 coats a day. One first thing in the morning, one sometime after work.
After 3 coats, sand lightly with 600. Repeat.

After 15 years, I see no reason to brush any more unless you enjoy the experience. Especially if you want a low build finish like Jim has shown, brushing is a waste of time.

Do you rub out the finish? I don't really care about brushing, I don't need the experience . I'm curious how long to wait before I can use it lightly?

[Prashun Patel]

You can rub out. Many do. I think a better, easier finish is had by just buying the satin sheen. You can put satin over gloss, so you would only need to buy a small amount additionally.

Ymmv, but I would wait a week before using it lightly, and a month before using it heavily. These are rough guidelines. Dig a fingernail into an inconspicuous area . If it’s soft, use kid gloves a little longer.