Dog holes + a dedicated planing stop...

[Luke Dupont]

As I'm currently contemplating rebuilding a new top for my bench...

I was thinking that I want both dog holes (haven't decided on square or round. I like the square ones in my current bench, but may just go with round this time) and a square, through-mortised planing stop that can be knocked up and down.

In this case, would you put the planing stop in the same "row" as the dog holes, at the end, or would you put it a little further back from the dog holes?

Given the short length of my bench, the dog holes will go for pretty much the whole length of the top. And I'm making the top a bit longer, as I have indeed found 3 feet to be just a tad short even for small work...

Contemplating getting a few hold fasts as well...

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

Hi Luke,

I am building a 5' workbench for the apartment. I decided to use round dog holes and a planing stop from veritas (the black bar in the pic)
I took the idea from an image I found off of Derek's site.
and have a "row" that continues in line with what will be the leg vise.
the planing stop requires 2 dogholes. Works fantastic so far (I may add sandpaper to the edge to increase its grip if necessary in the future)
WhatsApp Image 2022-03-25 at 18.45.16.jpeg

[Derek Cohen]

Luke, the most useful planing stop I have is this one. Attached with inserts and bolts. Height-adjustable ...



The inside face is lined with cork-rubber ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jason Buresh]

I find planing stops useful only for thinner stock. I don't work with thin stock that often so I don't have a dedicated stop, so I usually just clamp a strip of 1/4" plywood to the bench.

For 90% of my planing tasks, I use dogs and the tail vise. I really like the spring loaded dogs because you can set them low in the bench.

If I'm edge jointing a board that doesn't fit in the vise, I will clamp a wooden hand screw to it then clamp the hand screw to the bench. This works well

[Scott Clausen]

I settled on adding a dog hole across from my leg vise and epoxy a oak dowel into a thin strip and clamp the other end to my leg vise.20220127_203024 (1).jpg

[mike stenson]

I settled on adding a dog hole across from my leg vise and epoxy a oak dowel into a thin strip and clamp the other end to my leg vise.20220127_203024 (1).jpg

This is what I did on my current bench. The next bench will have one as you describe, however, I'll also still have the ability to do this. I do not like having to undo a vise to check a board, move it, or otherwise manipulate it. So I've pretty much stopped using my tail vise in favor of stops and other work holding methods

[steven c newman]

One can also make up a "spare" dog....then a piece of an old rip saw is added to the top of the dog.....Teeth only need to be pointy, not really sharpened. Can be placed in whatever dog hole you need. A slight bevel to the top of the dog helps...metal part can extend out the "back" and rest on the top of the bench....with the toothed section raised up a bit..say 1/8" high.....

[Richard Hutchings]

I do not like having to undo a vise to check a board, move it, or otherwise manipulate it. So I've pretty much stopped using my tail vise in favor of stops and other work holding methods

I don't think I could ever get on board with that method. I watch a lot of Rex Kruger videos and using this method, the board is constantly moving around, requiring adjustment of the board. It would drive me nuts. It drives me nuts watching him do it. Maybe a wider stop like Derek's would work for me but right now I'm perfectly happy to lightly clamp between dogs.

[mike stenson]

I don't think I could ever get on board with that method. I watch a lot of Rex Kruger videos and using this method, the board is constantly moving around, requiring adjustment of the board. It would drive me nuts. It drives me nuts watching him do it. Maybe a wider stop like Derek's would work for me but right now I'm perfectly happy to lightly clamp between dogs.

I think this is one of those things you either like, or you don't. Only way to know is to try both methods, in any case.. nothing wrong with either.

you get immediate feedback if you're 'off' with your technique.

[chris carter]

I have a dedicated traditional planing stop and a row of dog holes. The planing stop is probably my second most used tool, after my holdfasts. I basically hand plane almost everything against it. Although mine is in line with my dog holes, it doesn’t interact with them so it’s meaningless.

stop.jpg

I use it to “stop” all kinds of other stuff besides just planing. I put the end of my strop up against the inside edge of it when touching up chisels and irons (could also use a dog, but the stop is already there!). I push the side of my shooting board up against it (raised up so the teeth don’t bite) so that it doesn’t move around. When I cut boards on the bench hook I usually leave it up so I have something to push the board against while I chisel my “knife wall.”

stop2.jpgstop3.jpgstop4.jpg

I don't think I could ever get on board with that method. I watch a lot of Rex Kruger videos and using this method, the board is constantly moving around, requiring adjustment of the board. It would drive me nuts. It drives me nuts watching him do it. Maybe a wider stop like Derek's would work for me but right now I'm perfectly happy to lightly clamp between dogs.

While I thoroughly enjoy watching Rex Kruger's videos, I'm not sure I would use him as an example of how well planing stops work. I get the impression he's pretty new to using them. I don't have the problems he has with boards jumping around on me. Sometimes I have a tricky board and I'll use a doe's foot - which is pretty fast. If I have a wonky board that won't sit flat, or is otherwise a royal pain, I will resort to pinching between dogs using the end vise. Tha6t method works well, although I have to be careful I don't bow the stock with thinner, or longer, boards. But mainly, it's just too slow to position the dogs, wind the vise, open and close. It also makes it time consuming to pick up the board and look at it, check my lines, etc. There are pros and cons which will vary for each person, but for me I prefer the planing stop almost always. I'm blind as a bat so being able to pick the board up quickly, inspect it 3" from my eyeball, and quickly put it right back is really important to me.

[Richard Hutchings]

You've convinced me to put it on my list of things to try someday. I like the other uses you found for it. That's a big hunk of metal you have on yours. Where did it come from?

[Tom Trees]

I agree with Derek
A planing stop is much less faff instead of planing a wide piece with a wee dog alone,
as one would need some other device to stop it pivoting about, or to keep repositioning the work on lesser width examples.
Mine is semi permanent, as in ....I wouldn't make skimpy wee pegs like what I've done.
Would be much better/ easier removed with larger pegs.


BENCH CHECK.JPG

If I need plane something lower than the stop, I just use, say a flat board like this for a surface to plane on.
Then it's a case of finding something the right height to make the right height.
SAM_3952.JPG

Mine is a bit beat up and wouldn't be any good for thin stock as is, but if you don't mind having a box of suitable off cuts, then only takes a few seconds.
Just saying another dog hole for utilizing a cleat for a planing stop might not be a bad idea.

Tom

[Derek Cohen]

The only time I like to plane into a bench dog, is when there is something securing the other side, such as a tail vise or a Doe’s Foot. Even then, the bench dog has a steel serrated edge to prevent sideways movement …







Regards from Perth

Derek

[chris carter]

That's a big hunk of metal you have on yours. Where did it come from?

Local home center store. It's 1-1/2" wide by 1/4" thick mild steel.

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks guys. A lot to consider.

As I make a lot of odd shaped things, and work with a lot of thin stock as well as shapely pieces, I sometimes find dogs to be the better method, and other times find myself wanting a dedicated stop. Right now I often just plane against a little 3/4" square dog using it as a stop and it's just simply too narrow.

I like Derek Cohen's stop on the end of the bench as well -- I might try it -- but I think I also want the traditional type. It definitely needs to be adjustable in height because I sometimes plane really thin pieces, which means that just clamping a board of a fixed thickness down isn't really ideal.

Anyway, I guess there's not much danger in having too many stops? lol

I have a dedicated traditional planing stop and a row of dog holes. The planing stop is probably my second most used tool, after my holdfasts. I basically hand plane almost everything against it. Although mine is in line with my dog holes, it doesn’t interact with them so it’s meaningless.

stop.jpg

I use it to “stop” all kinds of other stuff besides just planing. I put the end of my strop up against the inside edge of it when touching up chisels and irons (could also use a dog, but the stop is already there!). I push the side of my shooting board up against it (raised up so the teeth don’t bite) so that it doesn’t move around. When I cut boards on the bench hook I usually leave it up so I have something to push the board against while I chisel my “knife wall.”

stop2.jpgstop3.jpgstop4.jpg



While I thoroughly enjoy watching Rex Kruger's videos, I'm not sure I would use him as an example of how well planing stops work. I get the impression he's pretty new to using them. I don't have the problems he has with boards jumping around on me. Sometimes I have a tricky board and I'll use a doe's foot - which is pretty fast. If I have a wonky board that won't sit flat, or is otherwise a royal pain, I will resort to pinching between dogs using the end vise. Tha6t method works well, although I have to be careful I don't bow the stock with thinner, or longer, boards. But mainly, it's just too slow to position the dogs, wind the vise, open and close. It also makes it time consuming to pick up the board and look at it, check my lines, etc. There are pros and cons which will vary for each person, but for me I prefer the planing stop almost always. I'm blind as a bat so being able to pick the board up quickly, inspect it 3" from my eyeball, and quickly put it right back is really important to me.

Would you find it inconvenient if the stop was deeper into the bench, out of alignment with the dog holes? This is what I'm thinking and I'm trying to consider if it would cause any problems. My dog holes will be fairly close to the edge (1" of material between the edge of the hole and the edge of the bench) but my bench top will be only 12" wide, so they'll have to be at least 3" in I guess. Just trying to consider if this would cause any problems.

By having both the stop and a row of dogs, I figured I can keep the stop out of the way for when I actually want to just use the dogs.