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Thread: Lift lock and roll

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Leander, Texas
    Posts
    321

    Lift lock and roll

    I wish I had bought the lift lock and roll mobility device which apparently is not made anymore. Does anyone know where I could get one or have one to sell? I need it for my PM 3520 B
    Gregg Feldstone

  2. #2
    Not exactly what you are asking for, but what I do for moving my 3520b is a lightweight floor jack and 4 of these tri-dolly from Amazon. Works like a charm. Each tri-dolly is rated for 300lb, and I've had no problems with them handling the weight. I jack up one end a couple of inches and slide one under each foot. Repeat on the other end of the lathed, and then roll into position. Repeat to remove the dolly. Not as quick and easy as the lift lock and roll, but it's worked great for me.

    Paul

    tri-dolly.jpeg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Lakewood, CO
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    807
    I have a Lift Lock n Roll that I don't use. I put them on my lathe and haven't moved my lathe for years so I took them off and they've been sitting in the corner.

  4. #4
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    Sep 2012
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    Gregg, if you have metal working abilities, welding, cutting and grinding I can walk you through the steps of making your own Lift Lock and Roll.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mesa, Arizona
    Posts
    1,750
    Gregg -- Perhaps you can work something out with Pat. If not, allow me to suggest Harbor Freight's 1,000lb capacity hydraulic table cart. It's what I use to move my PM 3520C. (The cart fits between the legs and easily lifts the entire lathe off the floor.) I bought it to avoid liftgate fees on a delivery a few years ago. Since then, I've found countless uses for it. It raises to the height of my pickup truck's bed, making unloading heavy items much easier. I use it as an extension of my workbench or as an outfeed table for my table saw. It's very handy to have around.
    David Walser
    Mesa, Arizona

  6. Iíve been searching thru pics of the LL&R mobility system. I have the metal working/welding skills, but need info on parts, sizes, angles, etc. I want to fabricate two sets, one for my G0800 and one for my G0766 lathes. If anyone has some detailed plans, I would really be interested.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by David Walser View Post
    Gregg -- allow me to suggest Harbor Freight's 1,000lb capacity hydraulic table cart.
    +1 on the HF hydraulic table cart. I use it to reposition my Laguna 2436 lathe often and very easily. I have an 11x14' shop with very tight space so for storage, I've started storing it under my ways when not in use and then whenever I am turning I pull it out and use it as a table/tool caddy next to my lathe. The one downside is that it is very heavy and hard to move up/down stairs (my shop is in my basement, so I pretty much keep the hydraulic table there exclusively).
    Tom

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Tampa Bay area
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    I made my LL&R from pictures so I do not have any plans, hand drawn sketches only. I initially made a wooden mock up to see if my design would work, in theory as it was not strong enough to hold up a 3520b. I will put together list of what I used to make mine and post it here in this thread. Maybe one of the CAD types can produce a working drawing for everyone.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
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    1,576
    There is a thread about 3" below called Caster for Jet1642 and Dick Mahony posted some pictures of a Lift Lock and Load made out of wood. The concept is very clear from Dick's pictures. It would be easy to make one without the need for welding (for those that don't have a welder) and a person could substitute aluminum or steel plate if anyone doubted the strength of the wood. I encourage folks to take a look.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....r-for-Jet-1642

  10. #10
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    Sep 2012
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    The main angle is 3X3X1/4. The angled pieces are 2X1/4 on a 45 degree angle. The caster support pieces are 3X1/4. The pivot rods are 3/4 diameter. The caster hinge bolts are 1/2" and are inside a 1/2" schedule 40 steel water pipe that had to be reamed to smooth the internal weld seam. The lifting cams are 2X1/2 with a cam type radius ground on one end to allow easy lifting of the lathe. The casters are 3" and I believe polyolefin, do not really remember. Check Caster City web site for what they recommend, that is what I did.

    Not having an engineering background to calculate stress and loads I used material heavy enough to support way more than a 3520b lathe. For those looking at all the shavings and chips laying about in my pictures, I actually use my shop.

    The critical dimensions are the caster hinge points and the cam hinge points. These two determine how high and easy your LLR will operate. Also whether or not the castors will clear the floor when the lathe is on its factory feet. It is recommended you do a full size mock up of one corner of the lifting mechanism. I made mine out of wood and actually attached a caster to determine the best locations for the pivot points. I used the wood model to determine the shape of the lifting cam also. Once welding begins it would take a lot of work to grind welds and cut the assembly apart to change the position of a hinge. I drilled the cam pivot rod for cotter pins as you can see in the pictures. No idea why I thought I needed that. Once the assembly is welded there is no removing the pivot rod. The position of the lifting handle on the cam pivot rod is important also. With the lathe sitting on its factory feet the lifting handle should rest against the lathe legs so it does not fall down and cause a tripping hazard. The handle also needs to clear the shop floor when the lathe is up on the LLR casters.

    When I made my LLR my 3520b was still under warranty so I made the device so it could be attached and used with no modifications to the lathe. No holes drilled, nothing. I also left the factory leveling feet intact by cutting a slot in the 3X3 angle so the angle would go around the factory feet.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. Thank you much for this detailed info, Robert…. It is much appreciated!
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  12. #12
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Chandler View Post
    Thank you much for this detailed info, Robert…. It is much appreciated!
    If you or anyone else wants better measurements or explanations just ask.

  13. Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hayward View Post
    If you or anyone else wants better measurements or explanations just ask.
    I will likely take you up on your offer here, as I have ordered the steel for the fabrication for both my lathe LL&R units. Perhaps, I might send you a private message, and we could exchange a phone number, so conversation and questions might be easier, if you are okay with that?

    Thanks again!
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Tampa Bay area
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    Yes, I am good with that.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Chicagoland
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hayward View Post
    Gregg, if you have metal working abilities, welding, cutting and grinding I can walk you through the steps of making your own Lift Lock and Roll.
    Robert helped me make one of these! He was very helpful in teaching me to weld by email. Ha - was also helpful in helping me spend $ on my side-hobby. All kidding aside, welding is very fun hobby. I just need more time to play around and practice.

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