Apologies if this has been asked previously, does the Lie-Nielsen honing guide and any of its jaws accommodate Ray Iles mortise chisels? Thank you in advance.
[OP]
Contributor
LN Honing Guide & Ray Iles mortise chisel compatibility
Apologies if this has been asked previously, does the Lie-Nielsen honing guide and any of its jaws accommodate Ray Iles mortise chisels? Thank you in advance.
Contributor
Unlikely, free hand sharpening would be quite appropriate.
Contributor
The mortise chisel jaw set I own for my L-N guide is for square sided mortise chisels - like the L-N mortise chisels. If your mortise chisel has a vaguely trapezoidal cross section, the jaw set I own will only grip the chisel on the widest line, the widest width.
I only have the one data point.
Contributor
I just checked (I have both).
no they will not.
the chisels taper towards the point and they taper as a trapezoid. this means that there is only one point of contact on each side of the guide. I can easily move the chisel in it.
try the veritas guide with the mortise chisel setting, its what I use
Contributor
I was taught to sharpen pig stickers with a curve on the top face. The only way to do that is by hand!
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!
Contributor
I like to add the curve after freehand but the edge is guide sharpened. Either way that wasn't the OP's question
Contributor
The block of wood is the template to guide you to know when the edge is 35 degrees ...
This is the time I use the round bevel method espoused by Paul Sellers ...
My Japanese mortice chisels receive a flat 35 degree bevel, again honed by hand.
Regards from Perth
Derek
[OP]
Contributor
Thank you very much for the responses.
regarding the "curve" or "round" bevel, I assume this is the same as a "convex" bevel? I use convex bevels on my knives as I understand it to provide the cutting edge with a bit more material to strengthen the edge.
Derek, thanks for those images and the idea to make a wooden block for the target sharpening angle, I like that!
Contributor
No, in this case I believe that Derek and others mean rounding off the non cutting "top" of the primary bevel to make it easier to use for leveraging waste (marked with a red arrow in the picture)
Screenshot 2022-03-30 101356.jpg
that rounding does not require a guide and while precision is always important in general, it is less important on the curve that the cutting edge.
Contributor
Assaf, the rounding does refer to the secondary bevel.
Here again ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
Contributor
I stand corrected
Contributor
I’m not actually sure of this but I believe the rounded bevel tends to break the chip off a little better. This helps in not getting the chisel wedged in with a flat bevel.
Jim
Contributor
I'm feeling pretty silly about this now, and I don't want to hijack the OP's post but why should I round the secondary bevel on mortising chisels? easier entry?
Contributor
When you sharpen, a steeper angle generally result in a less chippy edge, but at the cost of higher resistance when cutting. The rounding of the secondary bevel let's you have a shallow primary and a steeper angle right at the edge. The rounding is the result of doing it free hand. If using a honing guide you get more like facets, but it's not necessarily better, you just need to fiddle with the guide.
Contributor
not sure I understand you.
I sharpen mine primary 20° with a secondary of 35°. I use a honing guide and have a facet between the primary and the secondary bevels. what does rounding the facet to to improve the chisel?
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