water based poolyurethane?

[Brian Runau]

Went to lowes to get a quart of oil based polyurethane to seal some drawer boxes. They only had it in the gallon size. I bought the water based stuff and I have never used it before. Says one coat, but I don't believe it. Anyone used this before?

Thanks Brian

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-One-Coat-Polyurethane-Semi-Gloss-Water-Based-Polyurethane-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/999918656

[Paul F Franklin]

I've used lots of minwax polycrylic, but not that one coat stuff. Let us know how you like it. I imagine it's thicker than the usual WB poly?

[Jim Becker]

Actually, the waterborne product is the right product for drawer boxes because it will have no "eternal odor" like an oil based product will have. Like Paul, I've used Polycrylic and actually keep quarts around in various sheens for general utility even though my go-to is Target Coatings for project finishes. I'm not familiar with the specific product you've linked to. In fact, I've never seen it before. For your application, the claim of one coat really wouldn't be material for me so use it, IMHO.

[Brian Runau]

I've used lots of minwax polycrylic, but not that one coat stuff. Let us know how you like it. I imagine it's thicker than the usual WB poly?

. White in color and very thick. thanks brian

[Brian Runau]

Actually, the waterborne product is the right product for drawer boxes because it will have no "eternal odor" like an oil based product will have. Like Paul, I've used Polycrylic and actually keep quarts around in various sheens for general utility even though my go-to is Target Coatings for project finishes. I'm not familiar with the specific product you've linked to. In fact, I've never seen it before. For your application, the claim of one coat really wouldn't be material for me so use it, IMHO.

I use arm-r-seal and Waterlox on my finishes, but for drawer boxes usually use the polyurethane. Just surprised I could not get a quart of the oil base at Lowes. Gallon only which would take me forever to use.

[John TenEyck]

I use arm-r-seal and Waterlox on my finishes, but for drawer boxes usually use the polyurethane. Just surprised I could not get a quart of the oil base at Lowes. Gallon only which would take me forever to use.

I'm not sure why you would want to use OB varnish on drawer boxes. As Jim said, it will stink forever and then some. WB is the way to go, or just shellac.

John

[Brian Runau]

I've used lots of minwax polycrylic, but not that one coat stuff. Let us know how you like it. I imagine it's thicker than the usual WB poly?

Paul, went on really smooth, smoother than the oil base. Sheen is lower than the oil base for same version. I will add a 2nd coat just because I am anal that way. No such thing as one coat paint. Brian

[George Yetka]

Just watched a youtube video that tested a ton of finishes. They showed that the waterbased polys are best for lighter colored woods as they dont change the color as much as the oil based. But in his tests they didnt do as good as oil based for darker woods. His tests were purely appearance though. Nothing about durability

[Curt Harms]

Just watched a youtube video that tested a ton of finishes. They showed that the waterbased polys are best for lighter colored woods as they dont change the color as much as the oil based. But in his tests they didnt do as good as oil based for darker woods. His tests were purely appearance though. Nothing about durability

Transtint works just fine in water based poly it seems. Simple way to get an amber tint if you want it.

[Michael Schuch]

Oil based finishes do impart a yellow tinge but they also really bring out the grain in the wood. Water based polys leave the grain in the wood pretty flat but don't impart the yellowish hue. I use oil based finishes on darker wood to get that deep rich grain they bring out. Oil based finishes bring out the grain in the wood MUCH more than a water based poly with some tine ever will.

For blond woods I usually use a very thinned coat of dewaxed shellac to penetrate the grain then a second thicker coat of shellac. On top of that I use the water based Polys. This gives a nice balance between grain and minimal hue. In my experience water based polys are harder and more resistant to damage than oil based finishes. Due to their strength I use water based poly straight without the shellac for places that won't be seen but need protection like drawer boxes. I have been using water based polys for near 40 years. I have used the polyacrylic a few times and I am impressed with it. I will probably stick with the polyacrylic for future projects unless I discover some characteristic of it that I don't like... which I kind of doubt.

A very long time ago I used Waterlox and really liked it. But I found I could get near identical results by mixing my own finish with a recipe of 1/3 oil based varnish, 1/3 tung oil or BLO and 1/3 turpentine with a little Japan drier which is a HECK of a lot cheaper than Waterlox. Spar varnish can be used as the oil based varnish which gives a more flexible finish that is less prone to flake but is also a bit softer and takes a bit longer to dry. Regular oil based varnish or spar varnish really depends on what the project is and how it will be used.

For drawer boxes you could also use lacquer since the finish doesn't have to be super tough and the lacquer will dry in a couple minutes.

[John TenEyck]

There's WB and then there's WB finishes. The acrylics in particular offer amazing clarity and depth if you use dye or shellac, or a spit coat of oil, underneath.

GF's High Performance on dyed mahogany veneer.




TC's EM-6000 on Sapele and birdseye maple.



Try a few WB finishes until you find ones you like and work well for you. They are likely to be the only option in the not too distant future for a film finish.

John