Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: set up triton for table use--several questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Englewood, Florida
    Posts
    189

    set up triton for table use--several questions

    I bought the 2.5 hp and removed spring. My questions:
    1. Do I lock router in max plunge or least plunge position before use
    2. Do i leave router in power on position....I will use rockler on/off switch
    3. should switch on router be covered w plasric guard when used with auxilliary on/off switch

    Why did triton print instruction so small that 80 year old must use magnifying glass to read them

    thanks for your help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,899
    I recently inherited one of these without the user manual, at least with the pdf you can zoom in I haven't used the router but a couple times, but I did find the manual here:

    https://go.rockler.com/tech/Triton-M...ion-Manual.pdf
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Eastern TN
    Posts
    263
    For question 1 the answer is yes, the lock must be used. As to #'s 2 & 3, you must physically turn the router power switch to off to be able to raise the bit to max height to change it. Not doing so prevents you from raising the collet fully so you can't loosen the collet. You have no choice on whether the router switch cover is over the switch or not as it is independent of the external switch. Once you are changing bits or otherwise raising the plunge to maximum height you need to still operate the router switch because of the safety design of the router.

    It is somewhat cumbersome to do all these things but they are there to negate any legal suits toward the company due to safety design issues. Overall I like the router but admit that operationally it can be a hassle when used in a table.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    calif /sonoma county
    Posts
    154
    i have had one like this set-up for years in a table . i had problems with the lift mechanism .broke it twice and then replaced it with a "router raizer " . posted that just to help if anyone also has this issue . it was a good purchase in that it is a much cheaper method of adding a lift then other most other methods . router does deflect when under load . this is not what i would call heavy duty .it has lasted 15yrs of light use .
    when you tighten it up the lift or lock the collet will shift . it shifts a small amount ,you learn quikly to adjust to it .

  5. #5
    I also had one in a table for years.

    I never found it necessary to use the lock.

    I left the power switch on all the time and used an external switch. As Al notes, you have to turn the onboard switch off to raise (plunge) it far enough to change bits. I thought this worked out as a great safety feature, because I would have otherwise wanted to unplug the router before changing bits. But with the external and onboard switches turned off, it seems safe enough not to bother unplugging.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    NE OH
    Posts
    2,626
    I always use the column lock once I have the height set; it may not be completely necessary, but it seems like a good idea. As for your first question, the position of the plunge mechanism, min, max, somewhere in between, varies as that's how you set the height of the bit. Insert the bit all the way into the collet, then pull it out a 1/16 or so and tighten the collet. Use the coarse height knob to get the height close to where you want it, then use the fine adjust to get it exact. Then lock the column. At least that's how I do it.
    Last edited by Paul F Franklin; 03-23-2022 at 9:00 AM.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  7. #7
    A couple of times I forgot the column lock and had the bit height drift enough to ruin the piece. I always used it ever since.

    The height adjustment mechanism is plastic in these routers and if you cake it solid with fine dust it will jam. Then it will most likely break. There are replacement parts available-in my case from England, although with pretty cheap, fast shipping.

    The plastic cover on the switch can be removed so that the electrical safety feature is disabled. I did that after the switch failed-again from too much MDF dust. I have a remote switch and always unplug for bit changes anyway. Same as on all my equipment.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •