live edge dining table

[chris rand]

I've found a beautifully figured 10' long, roughly 40" wide live edge English Elm slab that I'm thinking about making into a dining table. However, the slab is only 1 1/2" thick. I've read that live edge slab tables should be 2" or thicker to reduce the chance of warping. This particular slab was air dried for 3 years prior to being kiln dried, so I think it should be stable. However, it's expensive enough that I'd like some more experienced woodworkers to weigh in. Thoughts?

[Jim Becker]

Properly supported, I don't see any issue...the base plus some c-channel can keep it flat no issue. What you do need to deal with is scale so that the look of the base doesn't look to heavy for a table of that thickness. Aesthetics, in other words.

[Andrew Hughes]

If it’s dry and flat as it’s sits today why would it warp. Wood warps or changes shape due to loos of moisture.
If you leave it in the sun moisture will leave the side in the sun and probably bow across its width.
Only way to know is look in person and take a moisture reading.
Good Luck

[chris rand]

One more question for everyone - any recommendations on finishes for English Elm? I thought I was going to be doing this table our of Black Walnut, and was all ready to use BLO, shellac and Waterlox. But now that it looks like it's going to be English Elm, I'm at a loss, having never worked with it before. When I Googled it, practically nothing came up, which is the opposite of what you find when you Google "best finishes for Black Walnut" and get about a million recommendations.

[Richard Coers]

In my opinion, wood will do what it wants to do no matter what thickness it is. 1/2" thicker will make no difference. Just don't glue and hard screw that slab to any crossmembers under it. I has to be able to move with seasonal wood movement or it will bow. What's a slab like that weigh? Hope you have some kind of lift in your shop to be able to turn it over or move it around. Edit; If you use 35 pounds per cubic foot, it's going to be around 145 pounds. Keep you chiropractor on speed dial.

[Prashun Patel]

Is it flat? 1.5” is fine.
People usually think thicker slabs are preferable if they are not using an apron. It’s not so much about restricting movement as it is preventing sag. Build a strong supported base and your top can be as thin as you wish.

You can finish with Waterlox still if you don’t mind an amber cast. Less amber would be arm r seal. If you want it more clear/white, consider a waterbased spray finish like enduro clear poly or target conversion varnish. There are others.

[chris rand]

It supposedly weighs 224 pounds. But I'm going to cut 24" Leaves off of each end and make it expandable. That should make each leaf approximately 48 pounds, and the main part of the table about 130 pounds. The main table will be supported by a rectangular wrought iron base with 4 legs. The leaves will be supported by 2 heavy duty slides that will be attached to the base, and the leaves themselves will be stored in two cubbies under the center of the table and attached to the frame.

[chris rand]

I don't mind an amber cast. Any experience staining English Elm? Or use any oil and/or shellac before the Waterlox?

[Andrew Hughes]

I would expect cupping on the cut off ends.
Unless by some miracle there isn’t any stress in the plank. Rubio monocoat coat is a good finish. I’ve used it and continue to use pure oil. It’s very easy to apply but it isn’t cheap.
Good Luck

[chris rand]

I would expect cupping on the cut off ends.
Unless by some miracle there isn’t any stress in the plank. Rubio monocoat coat is a good finish. I’ve used it and continue to use pure oil. It’s very easy to apply but it isn’t cheap.
Good Luck

Your comment about cupping had me thinking all night. This is a photo of the slab that I'm thinking about getting for this project.
7233a4 Retakes_Page_1.jpg

I plan to cut the top 24" off for one leaf and the bottom 24" off for the other leaf. As you can see from the measurements in the photo, this will make the leaves approximately 40"x24" and 43"x24". How big are you cupping concerns, and are there steps I should take to avoid/minimize it?

[Andrew Hughes]

Wow that’s a nice piece. Who’s knows how the wood will react clearly one side is going to be different then the other.
Its one of those situations you cannot test and predict.
Letting the wood acclimate to your shop before you cut is a time tested approach. How long?
Im thinking you should have your base ready before you cut. I believe elm has interlocking grain so maybe if it moves it will happen slowly.
Other then that it’s just a guess we all deal with. Playing the hand you dealt is part of woodworking.
Good Luck

[chris rand]

Wow that’s a nice piece. Who’s knows how the wood will react clearly one side is going to be different then the other.
Its one of those situations you cannot test and predict.
Letting the wood acclimate to your shop before you cut is a time tested approach. How long?
Im thinking you should have your base ready before you cut. I believe elm has interlocking grain so maybe if it moves it will happen slowly.
Other then that it’s just a guess we all deal with. Playing the hand you dealt is part of woodworking.
Good Luck

Thanks for your thoughts. The slab was air dried for 3 years, then kiln dried, so I'm just hoping that it's as stable as it can get. I guess I should plan to let it acclimate before cutting, as you suggested, and then seal it as quickly as possible after cutting it.

[Richard Coers]

It supposedly weighs 224 pounds. But I'm going to cut 24" Leaves off of each end and make it expandable. That should make each leaf approximately 48 pounds, and the main part of the table about 130 pounds. The main table will be supported by a rectangular wrought iron base with 4 legs. The leaves will be supported by 2 heavy duty slides that will be attached to the base, and the leaves themselves will be stored in two cubbies under the center of the table and attached to the frame.

I wouldn't worry about the structure as much as handling the weight to get it out of your truck, into the shop, and flipping it over for sanding or finishing,

[Jamie Buxton]

Your comment about cupping had me thinking all night. This is a photo of the slab that I'm thinking about getting for this project.
7233a4 Retakes_Page_1.jpg

I plan to cut the top 24" off for one leaf and the bottom 24" off for the other leaf. As you can see from the measurements in the photo, this will make the leaves approximately 40"x24" and 43"x24". How big are you cupping concerns, and are there steps I should take to avoid/minimize it?

That is a spectacular slab! It is almost a shame to cut it up into leaves and such. Imagine that slab as a single long table top. Yeah, it wouldn't fit in my dining room either, but it sure would be an amazing table.

[Scott T Smith]

The number one rule when working with wide slabs is to finish all sides of the slab with the same finish, and same thickness (ie number of coats). You want the same degree of moisture resistance on both faces and all edges.

Personally I prefer a post catalyzed conversion varnish on wide table tops. It is extremely durable and moisture resistant.