Whats your .02 on toe kicks

[Jeff Monson]

I have a kitchen cabinet project in the planning. Was curious as to opinions on toe kicks, integrated or separate? If I use a separate base I can get three lower sides on a sheetgood vs. two if I dont. For those of you that don't integrate them what kind of base are you using?

[Lee Schierer]

What sort of cabinet: kitchen, shop freestanding? Will the sides be visible when installed? Will the toe kick get a continuous trim piece when the cabinet is installed?

[Dwayne Watt]

Not sure how adding a toe kick increases material but one way to dress up kitchen toe kicks is to run the sides square to the floor and then trim back on a 45 to the inset toe kick.
Toe kicks are absolutely needed on work cabinets in a kitchen or laundry room or bath. Never needed on built-ins for storage and such.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you stand with your belly and thighs pressed against the.cabinets, you’d need a toe kick space. Me, I stand several inches away from the cabinet face, and the toe kick is just a waste of space.

Moreover, if you run the base cabinet drawers down all the way to the floor, you get more storage space in the cabinets, and that is good.

[mike stenson]

I think the question is integrated toe kicks. Personally, I prefer to just make a box and put that on a base or levelers.

[Jeff Monson]

I think the question is integrated toe kicks. Personally, I prefer to just make a box and put that on a base or levelers.

Yes, Mike integrated or separate is the question.

[Jim Becker]

I prefer and build a separate platform for lower cabinets that performs the toe-kick function. I find it easier to level and it also means the cabinet carcasses can be simple rectangles without a cutout for a toe kick. I build the platforms for an entire run which also helps lock them all together. Personal preference and subjective for sure. As an aside, another method uses adjustable feet and a clip-on cover to hide the space beyond "toe kick" area.

[Kevin Jenness]

I make a ladder frame. The finish kick plate is easy to scribe, then a run of cabinets are easily set in alignment. Adjustable screw-on supports with adjustment from above allow for snaking wires and pipes more easily but I like to have support directly under the cabinet sidewalls for heavy countertops.

[Rick Potter]

I am no pro, but have built a couple kitchens, and other cabinets. I have tried both ways, and prefer the separate base. It is easier to level the base and then install the cabinet box. As mentioned above, you can also get three sides rather than two from a sheet of ply.

Another advantage for us home guys...You can install the bases before you finish making the boxes. This gives you a little extra time to install the flooring. I mention this because it took me three years to finish the 68 drawer kitchen in my house. I first got the sink unit installed and working with a temporary counter, then did the cabinets a wall at a time along with the drawers for those units (most drawers are not standard sizes). Then came the uppers, and finally the drawer fronts and doors.

Yes, I have a very patient wife, but it's her fault. She designed the whole thing unit by unit. Each drawer was designed to fit its contents.

[Ron Citerone]

I prefer and build a separate platform for lower cabinets that performs the toe-kick function. I find it easier to level and it also means the cabinet carcasses can be simple rectangles without a cutout for a toe kick. I build the platforms for an entire run which also helps lock them all together. Personal preference and subjective for sure. As an aside, another method uses adjustable feet and a clip-on cover to hide the space beyond "toe kick" area.

Jim posted someting like this that showed up on a search I did during my cottage renovation. I took his advice and it worked perfectly, and I would reccomend it. I used a 2 x 4 base and put black vinyl molding on the front of the framing.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I always make mine separate.

You nailed the reason. 3 sides from one sheet of ply/mdf instead of just two.

I use 2x4s for the base and cover them up with baseboard on the exposed side of the end cabinet.

I use the same baseboard for the toe kick that I use on the sides of the carcass, but, I rip what I need to off of it so it fits.

[Lisa Starr]

I prefer to build and level a separate base. Like you already said, I get better material usage and install is a breeze with a perfectly leveled base already in place. If a have a cabinet the side shows on, I install an end panel after install that covers both the cabinet side and the toe kick platform.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Another thing the separate base lets you do is make taller cabinets - like a pantry.
That extra gives you just a bit more "tip room" to clear the ceiling.

[Scott Clausen]

I am no pro, but have built a couple kitchens, and other cabinets. I have tried both ways, and prefer the separate base. It is easier to level the base and then install the cabinet box. As mentioned above, you can also get three sides rather than two from a sheet of ply.

I have never made a kitchen cabinet but ordered a book on the subject but only thumbed through it. I am sure I will in the future. Somewhere I saw something on the separate toe kick platform making better use of a sheet of plywood so the quote above is what I was looking for. I think laundry built ins or shop cabinets will be my first try on these.

[Jared Sankovich]

Separate ladder kicks. Makes leveling the assembly easy.
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