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Thread: Round Pan ceiling fixture to conduit for drop shop lights

  1. #1

    Round Pan ceiling fixture to conduit for drop shop lights

    I previously had surface mounted Florissant lights (quad) that were wired with Romex to a round pan in ceiling plate. I am switching to drop lighting and I've been trying to find a transition from the existing round pan to something I can run conduit from. I was unable to locate anything at the home center that fit a standard round pan but I found something that was about 1/2" off in hole alignment. I am headed to my electrical supply next. Any suggestions are welcomed.

    IMG_9412.jpg

  2. #2
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    Are you going to be suspending the fixture from the box? Is it just a drop cord you need to connect to the box? You can get 4" round cover plates with a 1/2" knock out in that you can put a connector into.

    I see some problems with your existing wiring though. The ground wires need to be terminated in a wire nut or Wago, or some other approved connector & a pigtail included to connect to the fixture ground. The metal strap that is on one of the screw holes also needs to be grounded. Some jurisdictions require that the sheath on the cable be trimmed back to within 1/8" on the box clamp.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Are you going to be suspending the fixture from the box? Is it just a drop cord you need to connect to the box? You can get 4" round cover plates with a 1/2" knock out in that you can put a connector into.
    No they are hanging from strut. I couldn't find a cover at the home store that had a 1/2 screw joint for flex duct. I found one but the holes were off as stated.

    I tried this one, but the holes didn't align:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...330G/300848261

    I saw this one but it wasn't clear if the the other one would have the same issue:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...00PW/300852147

    I see your point though, I'll find a blank with a knockout that fits or drill some additional holes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    I see some problems with your existing wiring though. The ground wires need to be terminated in a wire nut or Wago, or some other approved connector & a pigtail included to connect to the fixture ground. The metal strap that is on one of the screw holes also needs to be grounded. Some jurisdictions require that the sheath on the cable be trimmed back to within 1/8" on the box clamp.
    I see your point. I'll have to check that plastic round pan to see if it has a wire nut/screw somewhere. I am also planning to ground the metal cover, the strut, and the fixture.

    Is there any issue using THHN in flex conduit for this purpose?

  4. #4
    THHN is what you should use.

    I would just put an outlet in the box, buy short 3 wire extension cords, cut the female end off and wire to the light and plug the male end in ........... then again I'm probably a little backwoods ...........

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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Darrell Bade View Post
    THHN is what you should use.

    I would just put an outlet in the box, buy short 3 wire extension cords, cut the female end off and wire to the light and plug the male end in ........... then again I'm probably a little backwoods ...........
    I think this is probably the best thing. These are low wattage LED lights. I can use SOOW 14g and put a plug on it. I think I'll see if I can get that to work.

  7. #7
    Electrical supply had same basic solutions suggested above. I'm going to try to fit an outlet in the box. If that doesn't work, I'll use a blank with a punch out and run flex conduit to a surface mount box with a plug. Then run the plug with SOOW to the lights.

    Thanks for the help ^^^.

  8. #8
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    I am old, my eyesight is deteriorating, but that looks like an octagon box to me.
    Even if it is not you say it is on a joist hanger. Should be connected via a short stud?
    Remove the screw holding the box to the stud, pull the box and replace with an octagon box, a deep one. Cover with an appropriate cover with a knockout. Buy a armored cable whip to connect the fixture to the box.
    Last edited by Charlie Velasquez; 03-18-2022 at 8:53 PM.
    Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.

  9. #9
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    Derek — Check out Garvin industries online … they have pretty much every manner of box/fitting you could want. I’ve had good luck ordering from them.

    https://www.garvinindustries.com/ste...octagon-covers
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  10. #10
    Yeah Tom, I went with something similar.

    The box in the ceiling is a 3" round box. I was considering the extra complexity with my original idea and found a surface mount octagon box (4") with 3" box holes. Seems to work pretty well and was the simplest solution. So thanks Darrell.

    Pics of final installation (for that strand):

    Screen Shot 2022-03-19 at 3.03.58 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2022-03-19 at 3.04.12 PM.jpg

    14g SOOW to the 4.0 octagonal box. A bit overkill with the cable in hindsight :/

  11. #11
    If a receptacle is used then it triggers GFCI requirements, all 120V receptacles are required to have to have GFCI protection in a shop, if on the 2020 NEC, it also applies to 240V receptacles too.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Rollie Meyers View Post
    If a receptacle is used then it triggers GFCI requirements, all 120V receptacles are required to have to have GFCI protection in a shop, if on the 2020 NEC, it also applies to 240V receptacles too.
    Interesting regarding <=250v

    The reason for the NEC 2020 code change for GFCI protection to include 125V through 250V receptacles (outlets) is because there have been a handful of fatal incidents reported where children were electrocuted by dryer machines and other big appliances in the specified locations utilizing 250V receptacles. To keep people safe, the NEC decided that these higher amperage outlets needed GFCI protection.
    In this case, these lights are effectively hardwired (they were hardwired before) and 10’ up. They are dedicated and on a light switch. The plug was just a convenient transition. Id switch to a gfci breaker before removing those outlets.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    In this case, these lights are effectively hardwired (they were hardwired before) and 10’ up. They are dedicated and on a light switch. The plug was just a convenient transition. Id switch to a gfci breaker before removing those outlets.
    I don't think the electrical code would agree with that.
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  14. #14
    GFCI installed..

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