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Thread: Bandsaw Threw a Tire, Again

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,443
    I too think it is tension. Have you ever checked the tires for heat after running a bit? Maybe buy a Harbor Freight laser thermometer and quickly check the temp after running a bit. Then check again after doing a cut. You could be getting some slippage and that softens the tires.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Dixon View Post

    As to tensioning, I usually run the "needle" about half way into the area designated for the blade size. I have no idea of it's calibration status. I'll pluck the blade when it is returned to service.

    Tension scales on bandsaws are notoriously inaccurate. To remove all doubt beg, borrow, or buy a tension gauge and use it to calibrate your bandsaw scale. I bought a Starrett gauge years ago from Iturra Design and use it on all my bandsaws and those of friends and club members. You can also make one, instructions elsewhere on this forum. I have the links but I’m not at home now.

    JKJ

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    62
    Eugene I just recently went thru the same issue with a Felder FB510 that is approx. 3 years old. Felder gave me new tires and said they had problems with their supplier. 1st replacement set last about 1 month. second set Felder said that I should glue them on. That just made the bandsaw run rough so I had to true up the tires. That set fell apart. So after three sets of Felder tires I went to urethane about a year ago and no issues since. Tires were coming off with a 1" blade and a 1/2" blade.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
    Posts
    510
    Mark,
    Very interesting.
    Thanks

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
    Posts
    510
    Update 3/24
    Yesterday, I spent a couple of hours cleaning glue from the wheels. Scrapping with a razor blade was slow. I found that soaking a rag in acetone and just rubbing the wheel was more effective.

    While cleaning, I also tested the wheel bearings. Not good. They were obviously dry and the uppers barely turned. I checked the shafts on the bandsaw and didn't see any issues of wear so the bearings did not seem to be spinning on the shafts. I pulled both bearings the from both wheels. They were all NTN DU bearings. Owners manual calls out ZZ bearings. So, it appears they've been replaced. I don't understand why someone would put single sealed bearings on a bandsaw. I've ordered Timkin 2RS for replacements. A little more drag than ZZ but a better seal.
    Last edited by Eugene Dixon; 03-24-2022 at 10:24 PM.

  6. #21
    You might try Andy Klein's "Bandsaw Tensioning" app avalible in the apple app store for setting/checking the Tension. He has a youtube video demo it.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
    Posts
    510
    Thank you Ted.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
    Posts
    510
    Where's the Hammer/Felder Service Department for the NE? I've called several times. Emailed multiple times. Even had the sales rep contact me for intervention but no response for Support or Parts. I did see a posting for open jobs recently.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Dixon View Post
    Where's the Hammer/Felder Service Department for the NE? I've called several times. Emailed multiple times. Even had the sales rep contact me for intervention but no response for Support or Parts. I did see a posting for open jobs recently.

    Hi Eugene, do you want me to email someone at Felder USA on your behalf?

    Regards, Rod

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary Hoyt View Post
    I would definitely go to urethane tires. I had a set on my 18" Jet for 7 years and they were as good as new. They are harder to stretch onto the wheel, but I can't imagine them getting thrown off.
    Urethane tires lose their elasticity as well, most of the saws that had urethane tires I worked on shed large strips of tire suddenly according to the operator.

    All tires fail with age, exposure to UV light and ozone….Rod

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
    Posts
    510
    I'm behind in updating this thread. I installed the urethane tires using a jig (video) from the supplier. The jig made it easy. Basically to 1/2" dowels one is the axis for the wheel and the other 'stretches' the tire. Took about 2 mins per wheel.

    Replaced all the wheel bearings and replaced the spacers with house built items.

    Checked the blade tension and could not get >15,000 psi on a 3/4" blade - just checking- but the spring seemed fully collapsed on one side. Trying to contact Felder (thanks for the offer Rod, PM sent) through customer service and regional sales rep. They must be very busy or very short of staff.

    I cut out one bowl blank and detensioned the blade. Been working on dust collection since. Ordering ducting later this week, if I can get up the financial courage.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,467
    Hi Eugene

    Just read this thread. I have had a Hammer N4400 for some 10 years. I've yet to replace a tire, but likely to go to urethane when I do.

    With regard dust collection, have a look at what I did. It may save some dollars.

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...stControl.html

    There are a bunch of other mods for Hammer machines on my website ...

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...ery/index.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    FINGER LAKES AREA , CENTRAL NEW YORK STATE
    Posts
    259
    I have a real old junky budget Sears band saw, It is not very good quality but I have had it for 20 plus years and it was already a bunch of years old when I got it from the carpenter who gave it to me. I have used it off and on, never had any tire issues. The one thing I always do is take off the tension when I am done using the saw. A wide blade over tensioned could easily cause the rubber to cold flow when the tension is applied with the saw just sitting around. The tire under the blade will deform to some degree while the balance of the tire not contacting the blade will not . This will possibly cause the tire to walk as it transitions from the compressed portion to the static portion. Additionally the blade will interact differently with the tire compressed vs un-compressed from sitting idle . The condition is not unlike tires on a car flat siding when not rolled for periods of time. Also the rubber under blade tension while not in use might actually be sticking to the wheel with more tac than the balance of the tire that was not squeezed by the blade while idle. This will possibly add some walk to the tire when you run the saw. Just my thought not my experience .
    mike calabrese

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
    Posts
    510
    Faithfully de-tension after each use, Mike. the encouragement and the insight is appreciated.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Dixon View Post
    Faithfully de-tension after each use, Mike. the encouragement and the insight is appreciated.
    During 42 years of industrial experience I’ve never seen anyone detension a saw unless they were changing blades.

    We don’t remove tension from any other devices either.

    Unless you’re exceeding the rating of a spring, it is not affected by having force applied to it.

    Regards, Rod

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