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Thread: What's the most frustrating or most hated tool in your shop?

  1. #16
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    This is a great idea for a thread, though!

    Hmm.... Most hated tool?

    For me, maybe an egg beater drill without a horizontal handle for the left hand. If I'm just holding the vertical handle at the end, there's very little to stop the torque of the bit, and it gets really tiring and hard on my tendonitis prone wrists to grip the darned thing tight enough.

    Nonetheless, I still find it super useful for drilling really tiny holes with delicate bits that would just get destroyed in a bit brace. In that context, there's far less torque so it's no problem.

    The coping saw might be a sorta kinda hated second place tool. It's useful on occasion, but I usually prefer to just go in with saw kerfs and a chisel or spokeshave depending on the radius. It's always a lot of work to clean up after a coping saw, because it's so difficult to keep the cut square and the kerf is always so ragged afterwards.

    There are many tools that I hate much more than this, but they're not in my shop

  2. #17
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    Some folks love the Yankee push drills (Stanley #41). Mine have been used very little in the past decade. At one time as a telephone installer they were used almost daily. The biggest problem with them is the nut holding the top of the handle holding the bits tends to strip out after a while.

    Here is something written earlier about them:

    My current project (This was an articulated gate project back in 2018) had me installing hinges today which made me think about the "YANKEE" drill. One of mine is a modern late 1960s to early 1970s model. Another one is a Wards Master with a hole in the cap holding the bits. They are released by spinning the top to the position of the desired bit. There are number designations for the bits around the outside. The holder mechanism has a cross instead of the design used on the Yankee/Stanley models.

    So today it came back to me why mine are not used very often. In softwood the small bit tends to stick, having resistance when pulling it out. This is my older "YANKEE" in use:

    Attachment 384312

    The marking on this one is rather worn, but with the help of a magnifier it wasn't too difficult to read:

    "YANKEE"
    North Brothers
    Patent 97 & 98

    I do not recall all of the patent information, just the years.

    The chuck is tightened by a threaded shroud instead of the later spring type.

    The awl laying on the bench next to where the drill is being used is my preferred tool for small screw holes:

    Attachment 384313

    The shaft on this isn't round, it is more like a flattened ellipse.

    It is easy to hold and spin to bore a hole.

    Attachment 384314

    It is also easy to keep the hole fairly well centered:

    Attachment 384315

    It is easy to see the top left hole was done with the drill.

    In hardwoods this may be a totally different story. Though when it comes to drilling one of the things an egg beater has going for it is when you want to withdraw the bit you can pull it while turning it or crank it backwards.

    (and)

    Today by error the Craftsman version of this drill was brought into the house to install some hinges. Ended up using an awl that was brought along.

    Upon further inspection the chuck is a two piece version of a four jaw chuck. From the bit storage and the fact that the biggest bit it could hold is 1/8" it seemed logical the eight bit set would have the sizes from 1/16" to 1/8".

    Other than sticking a 1/16" bit in the work piece on my first attempt then breaking it on its second try, it seems to have a fatal flaw. The first attempt was foiled when the jaws failed to hold the bit tight enough. The jaws are tightened via a threaded collar. It looked easy to disassemble and it was. The original spring must have gone missing since the one in the jaws looked just like a piece of ball point pen spring. It was a touch weak so it was replaced with a slightly longer piece of spring.

    About that fatal flaw... To tighten the jaws enough to hold a bit isn't real difficult even for my old hands. The problem is getting the bit out. When the barrel of the collar is turned it retracts the spring and pulls the lower part of the drill mechanism into its body.

    One slip and you could have a drill bit through the palm of your hand or a bit shot across the room.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 03-15-2022 at 1:57 AM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #18
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    Corcoran, MN
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    I am the most frustrating tool in this shop - slow, old, and often unable to reach things fallen to the floor; hence the grabber. I'd replace me if i could with the young and enthusiastic tool i was in the 1990s.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Mack View Post
    I am the most frustrating tool in this shop - slow, old, and often unable to reach things fallen to the floor; hence the grabber. I'd replace me if i could with the young and enthusiastic tool i was in the 1990s.
    Good one Bruce!

  5. #20
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    Peoria, IL
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    None, the last hated tool got sold decades ago.

  6. #21
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    Fishers, Indiana
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    A Great Neck #4 plane with plastic tote and aluminum frog.
    I bought it over 40 years ago without knowing any better. It was horrible when I bought it and it has not improved with age.
    Why do I keep it? Well, I would not wish it on anyone else, but I also can't bare to just throw it in the scrap pile.

  7. #22
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    I have several that frustrate me. The one I hate the most is my Stanley #75 Bull Nose plane. I find uses for it trimming rabbets, but can never get it to work. The blade either doesn't cut at all or just digs in. If I do get it to cut, the blade slips and I'm back to square one. I usually end up using a hand chisel to get the job done. The same is true for my Stanley #78 and 90 with the same adjustment problem as the 75 only slightly easier to get any work done.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 03-17-2022 at 7:07 PM.
    Lee Schierer
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  8. #23
    I have a project destroyer, aka Yankee screwdriver, hanging on the rack for old times' sake. Next to it is a bit brace which is a safer way to drive screws by hand with excellent torque and sensitivity. Each one has a square drive bit in a magnetic holder. Slot head screws are for the birds. If the oldtimers had ready-mixed glue, plywood and square drives they would have thought they had died and gone to heaven.

  9. #24
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    The one I hate the most is my Stanley #75 Bull Nose plane.
    Forgot about those. All of mine were such a PITA that they were sold off. A #90 Bull Nose Shoulder plane is much better if one wants a bull nose plane.

    I have a project destroyer, aka Yankee screwdriver
    One of those in my shop that never gets used.

    Slot head screws are for the birds.
    Tweet - tweet, they are my preferred screw in brass. Take care and the blade won't cam out.

    Gramercy Saw Vise.jpg

    To me they just look nice when installed with care.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #25
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    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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    I agree that slotted screws are the most attractive. Robertson screws are the easiest to use. I use Phillips when overtightening should be avoided.

  11. #26
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    I guess I’m a little off or something. I know the secret of the Stanley #75 and it is not a traditional bull nose plane. I like slotted screws, never figured out how to clock a Phillips or a Robertson. Which point goes up or down. 🤫😀
    Jim

  12. #27
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    I guess I’m a little off or something. I know the secret of the Stanley #75 and it is not a traditional bull nose plane.
    Mine could be made to work, they were just a PITA to use. Some was due to the discomfort of holding it. One person here jammed a styrofoam ball on the back of the blade. The other part was the blade was thin causing to chatter.

    This one was sold years ago:

    # 75Fenced Rabbet.jpg

    The sole had milled slots to attach a makeshift fence.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Pallas View Post
    I know the secret of the Stanley #75 and it is not a traditional bull nose plane.
    Jim
    Would you mind starting a new thread "Secrets to using the Stanley #75" so the rest of us can make them work?
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  14. #29
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    Nov 2016
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    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
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    It is easy: a couple of Stanley branded hand planes.

    Yes! Some years ago I purchased new from a local construction megashop a couple of cheap Stanley labeled plane from China, a number 4 and a ridiculous block plane. The block plane has its body made from bended steel plate. The stuff was so bad I swear never go again for very cheap tools even to discover how to work with them.

    The good part is after that unhappy incident I purchased directly from Lee Nielsen a couple of planes and do not questioned anything more.

    Regards.
    Last edited by Osvaldo Cristo; 03-16-2022 at 7:26 PM.
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  15. #30
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    [QUOTE=Lee Schierer;3184089]Would you mind starting a new thread "Secrets to using the Stanley #75" so the rest of us can make them work? [/QUOTE

    Lee, Please go to a post of mine from 5/14/2020 and you should find what you need. Post titled Using the #75. It explains about the nose not being co-planer and such.
    Jim

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