Another bandsaw? - Agazzani Model 600 vs. SCMI 24"

[Steve Mathews]

I'm thinking about purchasing another bandsaw mostly for resawing. The one being considered is an Agazzani 24" Model 600 that's about 30 years old. It seems well constructed with a good size table but it doesn't have a miter slot. It has a 3 phase motor. I would prefer a single phase motor but I do have a rotary phase converter that runs other machines. I'm thinking of keeping my Jet 16" bandsaw for lighter work. I never heard of Agazzani bandsaws before. Are they good machines? Any idea on the value?

There is also a SCMI Model BS-24 bandsaw nearby that is very similar to the Agazzani. This one does have a miter slot and seems a little newer. Would this be a better choice?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I use the miter slot on my 14 often. The saw I set up for resew, a 24, has the fence and power feed bolted to the table so the slot is not needed.

Looks like an excellent saw!

Screen Shot 2022-03-13 at 10.13.36 AM.jpg

[Steve Mathews]

Maurice - That would be the one (Agazzani) although the one I'm looking at isn't quite as nice paint or condition wise.

[Dave Sabo]

Agazzanis are very good saws.

They were considered by many to be the pick of the litter between the three biggies - ACM/Laguna , Centauro/SCMi, Agazzani.

[Steve Mathews]

Agazzanis are very good saws.

They were considered by many to be the pick of the litter between the three biggies - ACM/Laguna , Centauro/SCMi, Agazzani.

Interesting ... I changed the subject line to this thread comparing the Agazzani to the SCMI, my two current choices. The results of the comparisons will most likely decide for me which direction to take.

[Mike Kees]

I run a Centauro CO 600 in my shop as well as a 14' Delta. You are on the right track on keeping a smaller saw ,really handy for curves and smaller work. I have no experience with Aggazani saws but everything I have heard is they were really good saws. My Centauro is from 1980 . Built very solid ,with great design elements to make a simple machine well. The bottom wheel weighs close to 70 pounds, the pulley to power it is machined on the back side of the wheel in one piece. Helps make it more massive ,concentric and smooth. This is the kind of thought and detail in these Italian machines. My saw has no miter slot on the table either . I have not missed it. I do not think you could go wrong either way on this decision . Check them both out and base your choice on which one you like best ,overall condition and price in that order.

[Andrew Hughes]

I have Aggi saw 20 inch. My saw is newer so it has the newest style of guides that are very easy to adjust. My friend Rick has a 24 inch Aggi with the older style of guides. One point they both have is very smooth running hardly any vibration.
Ricks saw also has a bigger table then mine.
Both our saws will tension a woodmaster ct resaw blade.
I believe what makes a good saw is the right blade for the work. Then the tires need to be as good as possible.
I take very good care of my saw. Someday someone is going to be very happy owning my saw when I’m pushing daisies.
Good Luck

[Greg Quenneville]

I have an Agazzani 24” from 1970’s. I bought it very cheap and had to replace the belt and guides. Great saw, but a little underpowered with 3 h.p. when resawing 10” material.

By the way, I installed Laguna ceramic guides top and bottom and have been very happy with them.

[andy bessette]

Love my 20" Agazzani. Have no use whatever for a miter gage on a bandsaw.

[Steve Mathews]

I have an Agazzani 24” from 1970’s. I bought it very cheap and had to replace the belt and guides. Great saw, but a little underpowered with 3 h.p. when resawing 10” material.

By the way, I installed Laguna ceramic guides top and bottom and have been very happy with them.

I don't know if it's good or bad but the guides on this Agazzani 24" are GL456 or at least that's how they're marked. They look to be the all ball bearing type.

[Tom Trees]

Seems both machines are similar, looking at one of the more recent SMCi's on youtube, it appears that there is a chain for the guidepost,
rather than a rack and pinion with crank behind as on the ACM star which I have, which is the part of my machine I like the least.
I wonder if the SCMi is heavier, it appears to look like the original Centauro, or should I say an early one,
and I question if its the same system for the wheels also, much larger retaining washer and seemingly more meat on the wheel hubs should a bearing cease and wear the bore.
This could be the same on both machines?
If seeing both in person and this the case (a circlip inside the bore for the bearing to bear against, rather than a friction fit on the star machines, and spacer to do the job of pressing bearing inner race, I doubt there could be any other kinda wear other than the worst kind, and not a simple job of machining a plastic spacer.
Give the wheels a good look or tug to see.
I'm gathering here's what it shouldn't look like, from what I've seen on a wee s45 on a recent thread which had bore wear.
This Centauro wheel looks like the case to me, should both saws have this same design, ala Centauro (from what it seems, but just guessing, I could be wrong on this!)
centauro pto.jpeg

Could either machine have a groove for tires ala Centauro, should that be the case and you have preference.
Other features..
Presuming both have foot brake, fence,
same fence design?
could it be down to the motor
That could be HP/Kw but also if it has a dual voltage motor (which is a plus for one wanting to use a VFD)

Another thing might be the mounting for the motor, I'd sooner a foot mounted motor as you can have adjustment,
rather than a flange mounted motor where you cant adjust it, since it's just bolted to the frame, (where it's not so hefty)
I made a sheet doughnut for around the motor, as I wasn't convinced by the method of attachment stress points on mounting holes,
as there was a raised ring making the motor float.
Not only that but the fact the motor can't be adjusted closer into the machine, makes the pulley proud of the shaft.

I have a slot on my saw, very shallow though, still handy, and might be a consideration for making sleds for millng trunks.
I think I would phone about the SCMi first, should what's on paper make sense.
Just think it's a bit nicer looking too.


Hope that helps
Ps I like the GL guides, but haven't been able to afford replacements, were destroyed, gave welding a go, and there sloppy now... might convert these to ball races on the side rollers at least, but even a 3/4"blade is stout enough not to need em for ripping anything I've encountered, 4" tall is about the most I've asked ...on a machine which was needing work.
Last thing I might mention, give the machine a push with one or two fingers high on the machine, does it rock that easily....
I would double check everything like guidepost being parallel with blade in both orientations, (should you bring a level, you could check frame for plumb, and then wheels
to see if top wheel carriage is set for wheel to be dead centre to properly check)

Good luck

Tom

[Dave Sabo]

I don't know if it's good or bad but the guides on this Agazzani 24" are GL456 or at least that's how they're marked. They look to be the all ball bearing type.

Those are the ubiquitous “euro guides” found on pretty much every Italian bandsaw made for decades.


Whether the SCM is “better” really comes down to price , features , and condition of each. Most of us don’t care about a miter slot - you’ve mentioned it, so maybe you do. Is it a deal breaker for you? Both saws are the same size / capacity and are so similar in build quality that the decision boils down to what I said before.

[Bill Dufour]

Only time I use the miter slot on my bandsaw is when cutting lath shims to rough length. The distance from blade to slot is about the right length for my needs. No need to measure.
BilL D.

[Mike Kees]

Well what happened ? Did you pull the trigger on one of these machines ?

[Tom Trees]

Chance yet for a spoked vs solid wheel debate if there ever was any!