Volkswagon Mechanics Talk To Me

[Jim Koepke]

I would like to replace the existing fuse box. The old style ceramic fuses are probably ok but it seems to me that the new style fuses are more reliable.

Funny story about this with my '57 bus. A previous owner changed the tail lights and wired up a single center brake light. This was legal in California for vehicles built in 1957 or earlier. There was also a wiring problem the would occasionally blow the brake light fuse. A few times police would pull me over for having no brake lights. After explaining this was a 1957 and the law only required one they would want to check. I kept a lot of spare fuses under the dash and could replace the blown one with out looking faster than they could walk to the back of the bus. They would come back, shake their heads and suggest something should be done about getting more brake lights in the back but never cited me for it.

This happened 3 or 4 times before finding the bad spot in the wire.

I ordered am EMPI shifter, its a clone of the orginal Hurst shifter I had in my 66 Beetle. I am waiting on the parts to replace the rear shift coupler and I already have the front (Heavy Duty) bushing kit replacement in hand. This should totally tighten up the shifting issue.

Back in the day you would occasionally see an ad for a VW with a note like BC 2nd. It stood for Bungie Cord 2nd gear meaning it came with a bungie cord to hold it into 2nd gear because the transmission or something was worn. Without the bungie cord it would pop out of second climbing a hill.

jtk

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Replies embedded below

I suspected that there would be plenty of VW expertise here, its good to know I don't have to go elsewhere for advice.

1) I recently viewed a video that had very bad reviews of the EMPI disc brake upgrade. It seems that there is about 30 thousands of flex in their casting. I have just about decided to replace the brake shoes rather then to do the disc upgrade. What I have found is the the front end of the car is so light it doesn't make a lot of sense to change the front to disc brakes even though almost all cars rely on front wheel braking the most. If I decided to upgrade the rear brakes to discs I am not sure how that will affect the master cylinder or if it needs to be replaced. I have not determined if I should replace all of the flexible brake lines yet.

Empi makes mostly junk. The later model bugs had a dual reservoir master cylinder. You want that one. A good kit will come with one, but not always. Check with CB Performance- I think they have a higher quality disc brake kit, but it has been a while. The front is lighter, but it still takes the brunt of the force when stopping. I would go discs up front first.

2) I would like to replace the existing fuse box. The old style ceramic fuses are probably ok but it seems to me that the new style fuses are more reliable. I found a new style replacement fuse box at CarolinaDuneBuggies but it is listed for $123.00 which seems a bit expensive. I expect I could cruise the junk yards here and fine a suitable fuse box pretty cheap from just about any model car or truck. I haven't been in a junk yard for decades so I don't know what to expect these days

You can get complete wiring kits fairly cheap. $123 isn’t bad for a fuse box, but make sure it’s got plenty of fuses. A lot of the dune buggy stuff only has the basics and you might want extra fuses for lighting, stereo, etc.

3) the rear shocks are currently air shocks. They seem to be holding pressure ok but at higher pressures they raise the back end and force the wheels to turn in at the bottom. I won't know any more about the suspension until I get the car in the shop on a lift and remove the wheels so I can get a better look. I'm pretty sure that there will be suspension parts that will need to be replaced. More later when I get more information.

Sounds like you have a ‘67 or earlier frame with the swing axle. ‘68 and later had IRS rear. ‘68 had King Pin front and IRS rear, then ‘69 and up they went to ball joint fronts. The ideal setup is the ‘68, but for just the rear suspension ‘68 and later.

4) I ordered am EMPI shifter, its a clone of the orginal Hurst shifter I had in my 66 Beetle. I am waiting on the parts to replace the rear shift coupler and I already have the front (Heavy Duty) bushing kit replacement in hand. This should totally tighten up the shifting issue.

You can also get a short throw shift kit which has a different bushing- as long as you are changing it out.


More later with pictures as I move forward and incorporate your comments/advise.

[Keith Outten]

I think your right Allen, given that the area where I live is flatland and the buggy is much lighter with the steel body removed the existing drum brakes should be more then adequate.

Malcolm, I will see if I can find out about the new disc brake but I am pretty sure that the drum brakes will be fine and less expensive.

Kris, I think the master cylinder is a single-circuit. Your right about an upgrade being worth the time and expense though for safety reasons. I will be most likely be replacing all of the flex hose anyway so the whole brake system purge will be necessary. I bought a hand style vacuum pump to bleed the system, have never used one though. My experience has always been to use a friend to pump the brake pedal when bleeding the brakes.

Anyone have a ball park guess what a new paint job and new interior will cost me?

[Kris Cook]

I bought a hand style vacuum pump to bleed the system, have never used one though. My experience has always been to use a friend to pump the brake pedal when bleeding the brakes.

I have one of these and it works great. Makes it a one-man job.

[Bill Dufour]

My BIL. 74? super beattle had a tire powered windshield squirter. I found a rabbit windshield wiper switch with squirter switch was an easy replacement.
Bill D

[Keith Outten]

Thanks for the comments, gives me more to think about.

I remember the windshield washers powered by air from the spare tire

Malcolm, its definately a 1967 type 1 Beetle 2 door sedan. The vehicle identification number on the title matches the frame stamp, had to verify the numbers to get my new Virginia title. I found out that in Virginia you cannot register a dune buggy that was built on a custom frame. The machine has to have a manufacturers vin or you cannot get license plates or a state title.

Jackie just called me to let me know the new seats are on the front porch

[Keith Outten]

I would appreciate anyone sharing links or information you have about vendors/suppliers. I have found a few but I doubt at this point I have been able to find the best and most reliable manufacturers or those who provide the most valuable information.

BTW the seats were delivered yesterday and I think they will be perfect for the new buggy. I will share pictures as soon as I move them to the shop. I still have a welder/generator in my working bay of the shop that won't start and a couple small sign jobs to finish before the buggy rolls inside.

[Keith Outten]

Pulled the dune buggy into my shop yesterday and got the front end up on a set of stands. Started by pulling the right front wheel so I can start replacing the brake pads, bearings and seals. I couldn't find the hole to loosen the brake pads to get the drum off of the spindle, but it was just loose enough to wiggle and remove. Turns out that there are custom adapters to adapt the VW studs to chevy style rims. They are bolted to the front of the VW drum and cover the brake adjusting hole that is for some reason on the front of the drum not the back. My half inch air impact will not remove the five bolts connecting the adapters so I will be fighting this battle in just a few minutes.

I still have some parts on order for the brake rebuild and a new brake fluid reservoir on order, turns out that the reservoir has a crack in it just above the lower fluid level. Some knucklehead mounted the reservoir in the wheel well instead of under the front cover, can't say hood because there isn't one. I will have to build a metal bracket to mount the reservoir under the covered area and move it, another nasty chore since there is not any easy access to this area.

And so the adventure begins

[Jim Koepke]

brake adjusting hole that is for some reason on the front of the drum not the back.

It was a lot easier and safer to adjust the brakes that way since a person didn't have to crawl under the car while it was up on the original jack that came with VWs.

jtk

[Michael Cuthriell]

How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot

This book is updated and still available and covers anything you would ever need. My experiences with VW air cooled engines is that oil changes and valve adjustments are most important. Regular spark plug changes as well and coating the plug threads with anti seize keeps you from getting a stuck plug, especially in the #3 cylinder which seems to run the hottest.

[Jim Koepke]

the #3 cylinder which seems to run the hottest.

My recollection is the oil cooler is mounted right above the #3 cylinder and lessened the flow of cooling air available to the #3 cylinder.

jtk

[Curt Harms]

The hardest question to answer is the one that isn't asked.

My VW experience was years ago, a few bugs, a few busses and a fast back. Helped a lot of friends fix or maintain theirs.

Got tired of changing the oil and adjusting the valves all the time.

Everyone thought I was crazy with my 1957 buss with the 40 horse engine. They all told me it would only get 30,000 miles before having to replace thee engine. It got over 70,000 before the speedo cable broke and went another year or two before selling it. It was always driven gently and was serviced regularly.

The guy it was sold to didn't take care of it and killed it within a couple months.

Everyone else tried driving them like a race car or a V8 truck and blew their engines with low miles.

jtk

I had one in high school. A guy who seemed pretty up to speed on VWs recommended about a cup of heating oil or diesel fuel per tank of gas. He claimed that European gasoline had better lubricating properties (less refined?) than U.S. gas. I guess it was supposed to be better for the intake valve train. It didn't seem to do any harm. Do you know anything about that?

[Jim Koepke]

I had one in high school. A guy who seemed pretty up to speed on VWs recommended about a cup of heating oil or diesel fuel per tank of gas. He claimed that European gasoline had better lubricating properties (less refined?) than U.S. gas. I guess it was supposed to be better for the intake valve train. It didn't seem to do any harm. Do you know anything about that?

Don't recall that one. Have heard of using diesel instead of oil in the engine before a rebuild to knock the gunk loose.

jtk

[Keith Outten]

I decided to machine long slotted holes on the back plate to access the upper and lower brake adjusters from the back side. It makes more sense in the long run rather than fighting with the five bolts installed for the rim adapters.

Most of the brake rebuild parts are in my shop, the only exception is a couple of grease seals. I picked up the new brake fluid reservoir today but the local parts store didn't have any hose, I need a couple short pieces to replace existing the hose and was told that the hose is a special type just for brake fluid. I may have to purchase a standard brake hose and remove the fittings and cut them to fit.

Michael, thanks for the book reference.

[Allan Dozier]

Keith, are you replacing the master cylinder also?