Great to see this project Glenn. Thanks for taking the time to share, I always pick up something new (didn't even know parallel pliers were a thing...). Hope your knee behaves and I will be watching for the rest.
Great to see this project Glenn. Thanks for taking the time to share, I always pick up something new (didn't even know parallel pliers were a thing...). Hope your knee behaves and I will be watching for the rest.
"You can observe a lot just by watching."
--Yogi Berra
I've sized and fitted one of the floating panels.
Float-Med-Cab (61).jpg
Six more to go.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Glenn, thank you for taking the time to share your process. I learned a lot from your tips and may steal some storage ideas that appeared in the background. Looking forward to the next step!
The knobs on your shooting board gave me some ideas so I searched and found your recent reply describing it. I have a small 1/2" fixed fence onto which a taller fence and some miter accessories friction fit, but occasionally the outer fence will shift up or back while shooting. Though the fixed fence prevents it from accomplishing the same as the overside hole on your board for fine adjustment, I think I may at least add some insert nuts behind the fixed fence to allow accessories to clamp down more securely with knobs.
The front panel is turning out promising.
Float-Med-Cab (64).jpg
After fiddling with a sac-fence to rabbet the larger panels I went on safari and found my L-fence.
This works great for this sort of thing.
Can anyone hear screeching brakes?
I managed to mis-measure and stopped these stopped grooves too short . . . better than too long . They should have run to where the (new) red marks are.
For stuff like this some hand tools are faster than getting setup at the router table to correct my boo-boo. A setup bar makes layout a breeze.
The odd profile on this piece makes a handscrew a good choice for gripping without marring.
Tappity-tap-tap.
I'll finish the other three and get back on track.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Interesting project Glenn!
Thanks for documenting it!
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Thanks Ken. It is a pretty basic box so the floating top and the figured panels will have to carry the day. No my usual style but when mama's happy, we all happy .
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Sorry, I had to do some work in the back yard which took me away for a bit. I did manage to fit the side panels.
Float-Med-Cab (73).jpg
I'll start the glue up this afternoon.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Got side tracked for a bit. Obviously the whole piece gets the once over before finish gets applied but if I see things like machine marks I will often stop and take care of those while working.
I have a piece of material that has a lot of lighter color in it. I will use this for the cabinet bottom which is primarily unseen. I will darken the lighter portions but this face will be aiming at the floor.
The side that will be in the inside of the cabinet is nicer.
Granted, no one is really going to be seeing the inside of the cabinet either as its job is to keep TV and audio gear out of sight.
The interesting part of this is that the back of this panel will butt against the wall mount. The front will support the drop-hinges for the door. This means I want both of these positions to remain fairly stable. On many of my carcasses the back is the back and will face the wall with some space provided by an overhanging top or even just the baseboard where the wall and floor meet. This lets me fasten at the front and allow the movement to be sent to the rear where it doesn't really show. Not so in this case.
My solution is to fasten the bottom planks to the sides at the front and at the rear with elongated mortises toward the middle to allow the dominoes to ride along with seasonal movement. Where the two planks meet in the middle I will place a spline with wood movement factored in.
I use an arbor and stacked slot cutters for this. I have a selection. The gray ones I got at ReStore for a buck piece; of course I bought all they had . I have some others from Rockler and maybe Woodline?
At any rate, I have a collection of spacers that I made from 1/32" thick gift card stock. Of course it turns out that I need a size in between. Fortunately Home Depot store-credit card material is made of a lighter stock that was just right.
This is where I ended up.
I just realized that this pic is not accurate. The carbide teeth are offset to allow a bit of overlap as shown in the next pic; think dado stack.
So I cut the slot and fit the spline.
The planks will be cut to final length and the spline will be narrowed to allow for wood movement. The spline will be centered with space balls or an equivalent.
Cutting dominoes in the face of thinner stock (as seen in the first pic) doesn't allow much bearing surface for the tool. I was going to make up a support block when I realized I may already have one in the form of my drill press round-stock fixture.
Yep, that'll work.
Three tenons for each plank at each end.
I failed to show that the mortises in the ends of the planks are snug at the front position of the front plank and the rear position of the rear plank. The others are elongated to allow the movement I was talking about before. Boy that was a lot of words to say a little bit .
The bottom to side joint looks like so.
I can start to picture the floating look of this guy.
Ever onward . . .
Last edited by glenn bradley; 03-24-2022 at 9:19 AM. Reason: 2313
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Some progress.
Float-Med-Cab (177).jpgFloat-Med-Cab (178).jpg
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
This is looking awesome Glenn. I'd love to know more about your veneering setup, what bag and pump are you using? I've been considering getting a smallish veneering setup but have been overwhelmed by all the information out there. I'm also surprised at how expensive vacuum pumps can get. I have access to a used vacuum pump from work but I'm not real sure how this setup will control to the vacuum setpoint. Any information you'd like to share about your veneering setup would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the detailed joinery and design pictures. Nice job on the cabinet and the report. Very neat clean shop too!
I have a question about the Wixey table saw readout installation on your saw. I am about to install mine. Did you have to modify the brackets? The internet seems to think the supplied brackets do not work with a SawStop.
This could be a whole separate conversation . I did my research and for me I found the following short list of requirements:
1. Must be oil free. I did not want to have to hassle with controlling oil in the exhaust or run a long hose to set my pump outside.
2. Enough CFM to suck the size bag I would use most often in a timely manner. I went with this one.
3. Idiot proof. I know, you can always find a bigger idiot . As you mention the cost can get away from you so I opted for a continuous pump (versus one that turns itself on and off) and setup a timer.
I looked at going with a $100 pump from HF to see if things worked out. I rationalized the better pump by using it to install the HVAC system on my new shop. YMMV.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I found a surplus Gast pump for my vacuum setup...it was physically "brand new", but sold for pennies on the dollar at the time. I suspect it was an EBay purchase, but it was so long ago, I just don't remember.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Great build thread Glenn! Thanks for taking the time to post pics and helpful descriptions. I really learn a lot from your posts, particularly about accurate machine tool set up/execution. Good example - never knew spacer blocks are so useful! Thanks!