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Thread: Shop Build...should be a fun journey...

  1. #661
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    It's hard to believe that its only been 3 months since the walls went up!
    You'll have plenty of color in there once you bring the Stinger in.
    Yes, that splash of school bus yellow will kick things up a notch. LOL Maybe I should do a mural on the right long wall? LOL "Hey Banksy...you available?"

    ---

    Door trim today and a second coat of paint on the window assemblies. I really, really, really want to move stuff, but the lawn is a total freakin' swamp from the inch and a half of rain we got yesterday. But at least with the slider and DC in there, I can begin working on some storage things.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #662
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Considered it awhile ago, but I have zero budget for it, given the higher cost for the electrical service due to materials price increases and opting for the spray foam. I'm fine with the floor. It's smooth and easy to clean.

    -----

    So after moving the G700 down from the temporary gara-shop this afternoon, I set up a little cutting center to work on the window and door boxing/trimming out. So I guess you can say that the new shop is "officially up and running", although there's a lot of floor showing and only one major tool plus the DC and compressor in there so far.

    One again, the Big Orange Power Tool did all the heavy lifting...

    Attachment 491695 Attachment 491696

    I picked a location to set things up and...set things up...including installing some nice shoes on the saw.

    Attachment 491697 Attachment 491698 Attachment 491699

    Time to fire up the saw and actually cut something...so I started working on the window boxes. I'm fortunate, that this whole thing for the windows is totally a crosscutting operation, too.

    Attachment 491700

    I guess I can call this slider a "multifunction" machine, 'cause it's also an assembly table today.

    Attachment 491701
    that nesting, with the g700, worked out really well.

  3. #663
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Columbus, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The last step of the day was to paint the window boxes/trim. Yea, it's a bit monochromatic, but I have plenty of the grey paint and that's what got used. It actually looks pretty nice. They will get a second coat tomorrow or Saturday, depending on time availability.

    Attachment 491763
    The trim on those windows came out great Jim. Nice job on those!
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  4. #664
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post


    Door trim today and a second coat of paint on the window assemblies. I really, really, really want to move stuff, but the lawn is a total freakin' swamp from the inch and a half of rain we got yesterday. But at least with the slider and DC in there, I can begin working on some storage things.
    There are so many high end YouTubers who have no trim on their windows. They should all be directed to this thread to see how to get it done. Good job all around the building.

    There is some sunshine behind the monsoon. It cleared yesterday here. Hope the sun reaches you today. We got 3.5” of rain. It is still soggy and will be for days.

  5. #665
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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    that nesting, with the g700, worked out really well.
    Yes, it did work out nicely for this temporary setup. I choose to keep the slider "higher" off the floor...experimented with the shipping bolts and then bought some M12 machine feet to replace them. I'm going to raise it another 1/4"/6mm or so for the final height. But because of that height, it's slightly above the highest points on the DC so there would be no contention from any material being cut. The G700, once I put in ductwork, will live under the platform that the compressor is on. I do need to build an alternative "main power switch" for the G700 to do that. It's essentially a large box that plugs into the 240v outlet on the wall and has a rotary disconnect switch on the face of the box. The G700 will plug into that and the OEM rotary power switch that's unfortunately located on the back of the G700 will just be left in the "on" position. A disconnect switch is necessary because of the electronics in the unit.

    Brian and Thomas, I would feel things were "uncompleted" without having the windows and doors trimmed out "reasonably properly".

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    The only work I completed today was installing the door trim after picking up material and caulking the windows and door. I'll get the second coat of paint on tomorrow and maybe also paint the inside of the door...it's still "factory finish".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #666
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
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    Congrats on the progress! Also, I will say that I greatly appreciate that you share even your minor missteps along the way... somehow comforting to know that even folks at your skill level still have to adjust on the fly once in awhile.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  7. #667
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Today, I got the second coat of paint on the window boxes and trim as well as painted the door frame and trim. The latter will need a bit of touch up later, but that will wait until warm weather in spring when I can have the door open to get fully into the door frame areas.

    Once that was done, I started figuring out what additional components I will need to complete the air system installation using the RapidAir kit I bought from another 'Creeker a while back.

    One other thing I'll mention is that there has been an issue with excessive moisture/humidity in the air inside the shop and it's been causing condensation on the doors and the windows. None of those have thermal breaks. A big part of this is all about where we live now. This property has a very high water table so there is always a lot of moisture "hanging out", even after it's been pretty dry in late summer. I'm sure that some of it is also moisture still trying to escape from the concrete, etc. At any rate, this is not a problem I ever had at the old property and I do mean "never". I knew that my friend Helmut had been running dehumidifiers in the basement of their newly built home and asked him if that was the case. When he indicated that they were now turned off, I asked to borrow the largest one as a "proof of concept" and he dropped it off last night. The concept was proven. Overnight, the unit completely filled up after dropping the humidity from close to 70% down to 60% and running it today while I was working dropped it below 50%. The condensation completely disappeared. So it is now my intention of acquiring a dehumidifier to use during the colder months (the mini split will handle it when in AC mode in the warmer months no problem) and insure I don't have condensation affecting the building as well as my tools.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #668
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    Put a piece of plastic down on the floor somewhere overnight, and see if it gets wet underneath. I expect that floor is still holding a lot.

  9. #669
    I run dehumidifiers in my shop despite the low reliability of residential dehumidifiers. With your foam insulation/sealant, you should be able keep the RH below 50%. Be prepared to replace every couple of years. Save your receipts and be persistent about honoring warrantees.

  10. #670
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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Put a piece of plastic down on the floor somewhere overnight, and see if it gets wet underneath. I expect that floor is still holding a lot.
    Yes, that's absolutely part of it, Tom. I've done that test a few times and it was very evident when I had the floor covered for spraying the paint, too.

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    Thomas, while my "proof of concept" test is using a consumer type dehumidifier, I'm seriously considering buying a small, commercial grade dehumidifier for the shop building when I make the purchase. It only costs about twice what a consumer unit of appropriate size costs and will last many years longer. I'm going to put a hose through the wall anyway, so the small commercial unit is perfect for long term use.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #671
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
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    If you go for a "more serious" dehumidifier, this link may be handy... After lots of research, I found this one to be a good bet, and it has served us well in the basement of our 1902 farmhouse (built above an underground spring, with stacked-stone foundation). Keeps a formerly dark/dank/musty space easily in the 45-50 range without complaint.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  12. #672
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Michigan
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    23
    Keep an eye on FB marketplace. I found a commercial Phoenix unit with low hours for 40% of MSRP. . It keeps the shop in my 1926 dairy barn below 50%.

  13. #673
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Yes, that's the brand I have tagged from a previous discussion here about them. The consumer unit I borrowed is getting it to the 45-505 range, but it's likely working hard to do it. I think that a "stouter" solution is the best bet for this long term.

    -----
    Today's activity was to start on the shop air system. This will overall be handled by a RapidAir system of which I got the basic kit from another 'Creeker awhile back and will build from there. I've already ordered the additional components needed to (hopefully) complete the system in the next week or two. For those not familiar, the RapidAir system uses a PEX-like tubing to distribute air from the compressor setup out to the locations where air is needed or would be convenient. Connections are not much different than "SharkBite" type connections with PEX and should needs change over time, things can come apart in a similar manner. The basic kit comes with 100' of tubing, a tubing cutter, two wall mount air ports made from machined aluminum and one machined aluminum manifold for tying into the compressor system post regulator/filters. All required components for those functions are included except for quick connects which makes sense given there are a few different types that folks use and they are not all compatible with each other. A port looks like this (prior to tubing install):

    RFAO2659.jpg

    I will be placing all the ports first and then routing the tubing. My design is pretty much perimeter with "drops" which makes for easy changes and additions in the future if needed.

    The other item I installed was this hose reel and hose over the general location where my main bench will be. It obviously will be the primary point for connecting things like pneumatic pin/brad/nail guns but the hose can reach almost anywhere. I could have just went with that plus the necessary dedicated port for the CNC Z-axis assist, but I'm not a fan of hoses (and cords) crossing over the floor when not necessary. So there will also be a port on the back wall in the general area where my lathe will likely live, one near the overhead door for both inside and outside convenience and a dedicated port for finish spraying as I have an additional regulator that gets used for that application.

    IMG_3377.jpg

    I started getting the new auto drain ready to go on the compressor...I had one at the old shop but it died after a whole bunch of years of continuous service. Picked up a replacement on the Orange store's closeout end-cap a while back for fifty bucks; branded Husky but pretty much identical to the IR I had previously.

    While I was working on the hose reel up at the ceiling, a neighbor stopped in to see the inside of the shop...she's the neighborhood "busy-body", but a nice person. She also has a "lot" of stuff across multiple buildings on the two properties she owns. I asked what she had in the way of storage cabinets; preferably metal, and there may be some possibilities that I can get for a reasonable negotiated price from her. She needs the money, so opportunity may knock. Along the same lines, I will probably unload my metal finish cabinets so they can come down to the new building, warm up and actually get painted. They are solid but don't look great...a nice coat of paint will fix that for sure.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #674
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    Feb 2008
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    Colorado
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    Hope your neighbor doesn’t read Sawmill Creek! :-)

  15. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Pitman View Post
    Hope your neighbor doesn’t read Sawmill Creek! :-)
    She's not but it wouldn't matter...she has a thick skin! LOL
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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