Shop Build...should be a fun journey...

[Jim Becker]

Today, after food shopping and picking up a few things at the home center, I got back to work for a few hours. I painted a few more strips of the wood for light mounting and left them to dry while I build the platform that will be over the DC and hold the compressor. "It ain't going anywhere..." for sure. The framing is 2x6, with hangers and plenty of long screws with a 3/4" BC plywood deck on top. First photo shows a temporary post just to hold things level until the framing was build and then I crafted a post and cut it to fit exactly. There's a piece of PVC on the bottom of the post to keep the wood off the concrete floor. I do need to add some anchors so that post can't be knocked and will do that at first opportunity.

IMG_2652.jpg IMG_2653.jpg

I know this looks a little strange right now without the interior walls in place, but this is the time do do that kind of construction and when things are complete, it will merely appear like it grows out of the wall.

Tomorrow, I'll get the remaining lighting supports up on the ceiling and run the wiring for that so I can hook them up to the shop power once I actually have shop power. In the meantime, once the lights arrive on Tuesday and I get them up, I can plug them in the same way that the construction lights are handled currently.

[Jim Becker]

I got a very late start today mid-afternoon because of a bunch of errands that needed to be run. In that back corner where the platform is, I used the remaining "left over" 2x4 material from the structure build to start the long wall interior girts and put in some blocking that will help support the back wall girts to account for the different orientation of the corner posts from the two posts on the back wall. (the same situation exists up at the front wall in the corners) The posts are effectively 5.5" x 4.25" which means a 1.25" difference when a post is oriented 90º from another as happens with the end walls compared to the side walls. Some scrap material gives something to nail/screw the end wall girts to in the corners that keeps things square and parallel.

IMG_2660.jpg

The remaining light support strips also were installed...I forgot to show this photo of my "helper" for that overhead task. I repurposed the quick and dirty camera mount I used for the time lapses to hold the wood strips up while I fastened the ends to undersides of the trusses at either end. It was then removed so I could screw up into that truss, too. Since I'm working mostly alone at this point, using little "helpers" like this is going to be the norm, rather than the exception. Sometimes it's just a screw to balance something on while I attend to the other end of whatever it might be.

IMG_2659.jpg

The final part of today's work was to get the basic rough wiring in for the shop lighting fixtures that I should have early in the week. No photos of that, however.

[Alan Lightstone]

Jim:

Just watched the time-lapse of the build, and it was amazing. I kept focusing on the window guy in the blue shirt. Worked like a dog.

One question. Isn't there usually a tar paper/felt paper/roofing membrane or whatever you call it these days covering of the roof under the metal roof? I always see them put those on on the off-the grid building shows. I may have missed it, but it looks like your metal roof was screwed directly to the trusses. I have no idea. I've never had a metal roof (but always wanted one).

[Jim Becker]

Jim:

Just watched the time-lapse of the build, and it was amazing. I kept focusing on the window guy in the blue shirt. Worked like a dog.

That was Daniel, the foreman. He's been doing this for over two years now and I'd be surprised if any of the four young men were more than twenty years old. He did work like a beast. The guy in the maroon shirt was the muscle man, however...he was carrying each of those trussed by himself and lifting the ends up to the folks up on the structure. He said he loves lifting and even focuses his diet to support that.

One question. Isn't there usually a tar paper/felt paper/roofing membrane or whatever you call it these days covering of the roof under the metal roof? I always see them put those on on the off-the grid building shows. I may have missed it, but it looks like your metal roof was screwed directly to the trusses. I have no idea. I've never had a metal roof (but always wanted one).

I had house wrap installed on the walls because at that point I was making structure decisions I didn't yet know what my insulation method would be and it would be necessary should I have gone with fiberglass to reduce air infiltration. For the roof, regardless of whether or not I either put in a ceiling and used blown in fiberglass or went with the closed cell spray foam envelope, there was no real need for any wrap up top. In the former, it's not conditioned space and fully ventilated anyway. For closed cell spray foam, it's a complete envelope. There would be no harm in putting the wrap up there, too, however...I just didn't do it to save a few dollars. The only advantage that might have with the spray foam is it would make replacement of a roof panel far easier. But without it, there's exactly zero space for any condensation on the underside of the metal roof panels.

BTW, the roof panels are fastened to purlins that are nailed horizontally across the trusses. Purlins up on the roof are the equivalent of the horizontal girts on the walls and they provide a place to fasten the exterior finishes too. Metal panels installed vertically on the walls can go right on the girts. There is no need for additional cladding. For other exterior finishes, such as vinyl siding, other forms of horizontal siding, etc., sheathing would be used (typically OSB and variants these days) The same is true up on the roof. Corrugated metal can go right on the purlins. Standing seam, regular shingles, etc., all go on regular roof sheathing as they all require full coverage and support. The metal cladding I used is a lesser cost method and provides me more available budget for interior finishes. BTW, the interior also gets the horizontal girts...no expensive stud walls necessary but there are ways to use some extra material to provide vertical support where heavy hanging things need to go. More on that later.

[Jim Becker]

Today's activities included painting the inside of the overhead door frame white as it will be difficult to do once the door is installed...hopefully early this week. I really wanted to run some nice coil stock, but it seems to only be available in 24" widths and 50' lengths for a "billion dollars". The paint will do the job.

Also got the gutter screens installed so I can get the rain barrel setup tomorrow off the south side gutter. Professor Dr. SWMBO and I decided to take advantage of the new building for collecting rainwater as our house water apparently has a bit too much sodium in it for our house plants and buying bottled water is getting really old. It's easy to set this up, especially with the kits that are available with all the necessary parts...that plus the barrel are ready to go.

And just so there's a picture, this would be a diesel powered, 4WD, 23 horsepower portable workbench that also has a backhoe.

IMG_2677.jpg

[Bruce Page]

I really wanted to run some nice coil stock, but it seems to only be available in 24" widths and 50' lengths for a "billion dollars".

Enlighten this city boy. What is coil stock?

[mark mcfarlane]

... And just so there's a picture, this would be a diesel powered, 4WD, 23 horsepower portable workbench that also has a backhoe.

IMG_2677.jpg

The most awesome portable workbench, ever. Who needs swivel casters.

[Lawrence Duckworth]

Jim:

I've never had a metal roof (but always wanted one).

here's what mine looks like after 10 years in the sun... it started out a nice shiny black

CDC7565C-44BB-40C8-83D0-FA7621406BD3_1_201_a.jpeg

[Zachary Hoyt]

I just bought two rolls of that 24" x 50' coil stock for just over $150 each. It's heavy gauge sheet aluminum painted on both sides with tough paint of some kind. Mine is brown one side and white the other, but it comes in several colors at least. I've used one roll to make skirting around 5/6 of the perimeter of my workshop, and the tall end wall will use 16' of the other roll, and much of the rest will be used on the house addition. It's great stuff, but not too cheap anymore.

[Jim Becker]

Enlighten this city boy. What is coil stock?

A roll of flat metal flashing, typically colored white or brown, etc., and used for making various kinds of custom trim, not to mention the same kind of stuff that "continuous" gutters are formed from.

[Jim Becker]

I just bought two rolls of that 24" x 50' coil stock for just over $150 each. It's heavy gauge sheet aluminum painted on both sides with tough paint of some kind. Mine is brown one side and white the other, but it comes in several colors at least. I've used one roll to make skirting around 5/6 of the perimeter of my workshop, and the tall end wall will use 16' of the other roll, and much of the rest will be used on the house addition. It's great stuff, but not too cheap anymore.

I wish I lived close to you...I'd have made you an offer for about 8.5" of that stuff. LOL No matter, now that the door got installed this morning, what I wanted to do will have to be done a different way, anyway, so it's a moot point. But it's an opportunity for me to incorporate some additional sound abatement ideas as I re-engineer what happens above the overhead door.

Speaking of the door...I'll post photos later. Very happy with the door. One little thing needs addressed but I'll 'splain that later, too.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I would be happy to mail you pieces in a manila envelope or a cardboard mailer for longer ones. First Class should be around $5 if it's under a pound. I have some leftover bits and will have more later on.

[derek labian]

Attachment 487425 Attachment 487426Attachment 487427

I guess I missed a few steps. It's looking wonderful. You must be excited about seeing the end in sight.

[Tom M King]

I think Trim Coil is vinyl coated aluminum. Commonly folded into trim pieces, like fascia covers by people who install vinyl siding. I use it for a number of things too, but haven't bought any since it was about 50 bucks a roll.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Spectra-...TEHD/203250525

I probably have a hundred feet of remnants here that I could cut you a piece of too. I don't think I have anything but white though.

[Jim Becker]

I appreciate the offers for the metal, but since I couldn't get it in before the door was placed, I'm going to have to do something different and I"ll take advantage of the situation as part of my sound abatement quest. Tom, white is actually what I would use if I were still going to use it.

-----

"Meanwhile"....the overhead door showed up this morning and was installed in a couple of hours by one technician. He was great...actually grew up nearby but now lives up north, This is a high quality, insulated 8x8 door which will not be open very often, but provide access for machinery (initially), materials and projects that can't really go through a "man door". The Big Orange Power Tool can also fit through without having to lower the ROPS which would be necessary with a 7' tall door.

IMG_2707.jpg IMG_2708.jpg

And a very short video of stills from the door install:



There is a minor issue with the concrete having a slight dip from the middle to the right side of the door when viewed from the inside. The agreed upon solution is to replace the rubber seal on the bottom of the door with a thicker commercial version which will expand to fill that small gap. The concrete folks agreed immediately to this solution and will pay for both the materials and the labor. (These are all related companies, so internal costs are not what I would have to pay if I were buying the service) The cause of this issue is likely due to the fact that normally, the door would have been installed before the concrete was poured but the above mentioned delay in the door being available prevented that. So that plane of reference wasn't available to the concrete crew and it was pretty much a minor error on their part with keeping the concrete level across that opening where it immediately slopes down. The floor and the apron were poured as one unit. No big deal and everyone involved is taking care of things to my satisfaction.

Next up...lighting. The light fixtures arrived today on the big brown truck. (12) 8' sticks (14 actually purchased) in four rows of three. This should be fun...LOL I believe these are the same product that Matt Cremona used in his shop build(s).

IMG_2712.jpg IMG_2714.jpg