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Thread: Shop Build...should be a fun journey...

  1. #181
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lewiston, Idaho
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    28,504
    It's good to see your progress, Jim!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Dakota
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    1,627
    Time to get diesel for the Kubota!
    The Plane Anarchist

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh Betsch View Post
    Time to get diesel for the Kubota!
    Fortunately, I have 6 gallons available that was purchased last summer. And the tank on the machine is at least half full. I'm sure I'll need more, however, as there's some hard work to do. My toothbar should be in this week so I'll be getting that installed so I'm ready to go. Even so, I'll break things up with the backhoe where I have to do the cutout so I'm not depending on just the loader. Small machines require thinking through the exercise.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #184
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
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    1,660
    The plans look nice, and I hope the electrical part won't be too hard to get nailed down so you can get started. I'll be especially interested to see the pictures when the dirt work begins, it sounds like fun.

  5. #185
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I have about a 12"-15" existing slope front to back to level, Zachary. After stripping the grass and thin layer of topsoil, I'll cut in at the top to the approximate average height and move that material toward the back as fill. My rotary laser will help keep track of things. Once I have the area "pretty darn level", it will be compacted and then 4-6" of compactable stone will be distributed, leveled and compacted in preparation for the building folks to do their thing. The prepared area will be approximately 2' wider than the final footprint of the building. My goal is to have things as level and regular as possible so they can get the grade boards very close to the surface of the stone all around. I don't want to have to do much fill inside before the concrete work because access to the site by big trucks is not an easy thing to do and even harder once a building is up.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 04-27-2022 at 9:51 AM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Longmont, CO
    Posts
    810
    what tooth bar did you go with?

  7. #187
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Herman View Post
    what tooth bar did you go with?
    The Piranha from BXtended. These folks make some great accessories for smaller tractors that are very functional and reasonably priced. USA-made (to order in most cases) This particular toothbar cuts nicely while still offering "cleaner" use of the bucket since nothing sticks down from the bottom of the bucket like with many other formats. It will also cut roots a bit...the edge is "sharp" compared to other toothbar formats.

    Toothbar.jpg

    I may also opt for their trenching bucket for the backhoe as it's less expensive than renting an actual trencher for a single day around here...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    698
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I have about a 12"-15" existing slope front to back to level, Zachary. After stripping the grass and thin layer of topsoil, I'll cut in at the top to the approximate average height and move that material toward the back as fill. My rotary laser will help keep track of things. Once I have the area "pretty darn level", it will be compacted and then 4-6" of compactable stone will be distributed, leveled and compacted in preparation for the building folks to do their thing. The prepared area will be approximately 2' wider than the final footprint of the building. My goal is to have things as level and regular as possible so they can get the grade boards very close to the surface of the stone all around. I don't want to have to do much fill inside before the concrete work because access to the site by big trucks is not an easy thing to do and even harder once a building is up.
    Jim - I haven't visited the site much lately to catch up on threads so forgive me if this has been discussed.

    I can't remember what the footprint of your shop will be but cutting down the high side and using as fill on the low side may not be the best idea. You likely would be better off to waste that material elsewhere or set aside to use around the edge of your foundation if that is an option.

    If you have a proctor for the material and are having the relative density tested with a nuke gauge then it should be fine. If not, the risk of settlement may outweigh the cost savings of not using a spec material to build your foundation upon.

    Just something to think about from someone that plays in the dirt for a living.
    Regards,

    Kris
    Regards,

    Kris

  9. #189
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I was just having a conversation about that with my contractor neighbor, Kris. Literally about 20 minutes ago. LOL. I appreciate that you bring it up, too. The decision will be made once I take a bite into the earth. I may very well have to remove more material and add more base. Fortunately, it's a bit easier with this kind of structure as the ground under the floor is not supporting any part of the building. It does need to be stable, but it's only supporting a floating floor with the risk being only to that floor. My neighbor...named Chris by coincidence...will help with that when the time comes and he has over 45 years of custom building experience including running "big Tonka toys" to move dirt around. He'll also take any excess soil for fill on the property next door that he's about to demo since it wasn't savable.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    As an update, the official Permit and Zoning applications along with all required supporting documents were submitted this morning to the jurisdiction. Everything was able to be submitted electronically. And now we wait...

    The quote from the electrician was about what I expected it would be...like within two bucks. The plan is to increase the service to the house to 400 amps from the provider and split after the meter, but before the generator transfer switch. House gets its current 200 amps and the shop also gets 200 amps. This is essentially identical to the setup at the old property and was my preferred choice. It keeps power on a single meter and a single bill.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 05-04-2022 at 1:47 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #191
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Longmont, CO
    Posts
    810
    good luck Jim! a feverish pace! My permit finally got unstacked from the bottom of someone's desk and was sent to the builder. now he is 2 weeks out. hopefully by June 1 I will have my shell up. submitted February 8th.

  12. #192
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Happy you're moving along, Adam. I'm hoping the process doesn't take too long here...the engineering firm that does the deed has been pretty efficient in previous projects, but this is a bigger one. Fortunately, there's only the post frame structure and the basic electrical service involved here. I'm hoping for June/July for the build. (Which feels like an eon away...)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #193
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I have to start at least visualizing how I might use this space because there are certainly a few electrical things that are dependent on location because they are dedicated. So I took a few minutes today to construct a basic model of the space and reached back into my file archives to a SketchUp design I did for the old shop back in like 2008 to scarf some of the tool components I had created. I also did a basic swag for my CNC machine for which I did not have an existing model. Note that stuff is not placed in any particular spot at this point...'just assembling the things needed to play with options/ideas. And yes, the DC and compressor (the latter not shown) will be in a sound deadened closet, location to be determined. What this initial cut does show is the position and sizes of the doors and windows in this nominal 24x36x10 space.

    ToolLayoutV1.jpg

    I will also add that some additional tree work happened this past week which will provide easier access to the back yard in the future for getting materials to the shop. I'm still patiently waiting for my permit and hopefully it will be approved "expeditiously" as I have a relatively short window for use of the driveway behind the derelict house next door...once the demolition happens in a couple of weeks, Chris, the owner, will also be ripping out the old driveway to prepare to put the lot up for sale. That path for stone trucks can substantially reduce damage to our lawn during the ground prep.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 05-14-2022 at 8:44 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #194
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Houston, Texas area
    Posts
    1,308
    Jim, fwiw when I designed my DC closet I grossly underestimated the amount of return air needed. I have a 5HP Oneida DC with one 12" flex duct return snaked in the ceiling to reduce noise. I end up keeping the closet door open to get the DC to breathe properly. Venting outside would be ideal for air volume, except my shop is sealed with foam insulation (tight space) and heated and cooled.

    I also foam insulated the enclosure which makes adding return ducts in the interior closet walls 'problematic'.

    Anyway, something to think through.
    Mark McFarlane

  15. #195
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Dakota
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    1,627
    I know your actual tool layout isn't reflected in your model yet but one thing I think could have improved my new shop addition is:
    I have my garage access door like you off center on the gable end. If I would have located the 10" garage door on the centerline I could have rotated my slider (and yours per your model) so that when I need to cross cut 8' sheets the wagon support table could have stroked within the garage door opening with the door open. And with the door closed I could have kept the saw close to that side and still cross cut probably 6' pieces. The trick for me would have been to locate the slider 90 degrees to your layout and position it so the stroke fits within the shop width and then locate the garage door to accommodate the wagon side table. With the slider retracted it would still allow good access thru the garage door. I don't think I would actually have to put my garage door on the centerline but a few feet closer would have worked out better for me. But that's a lot of "thinking ahead".
    The Plane Anarchist

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