Kolle Slider

[Mark e Kessler]

Is it the one in Waterbury with the 12’ slide? If so hard to tell but looks like the overhead display is for power up/down blade and power tilt with dro for both and no power fence so the components are not as complex but i can tell you if there is a circuit board issue you will more than likely not be able to get something from a supply house to replace it. Relays and contactors should be no problem, also a 12’ slide is a monster to calibrate, not impossible but a challenge. Ask for a pic of the plate on tha machine it will have the year built on it if it’s the one in Waterbury it’s older than 2010, my guess is pre 2000.

From what u could see there was only 1 medium sized pcb, and then mostly repairs and distribution blocks.... they mentioned something about a chip but weren't very clear, but they also said everything works so I'm a bit confused ... coming out of what looks like a decent sized very clean decent sized cabinet company... if they didn't state the year I would have thought a 2010 machine based on the pics. It's appealing just need to make sure everything is working or ready fix before investing... about 3.5hrs away so not very very far

[Kurt Wyberanec]

Is it the one in Waterbury with the 12’ slide? If so hard to tell but looks like the overhead display is for power up/down blade and power tilt with dro for both and no power fence so the components are not as complex but i can tell you if there is a circuit board issue you will more than likely not be able to get something from a supply house to replace it. Relays and contactors should be no problem, also a 12’ slide is a monster to calibrate, not impossible but a challenge

Yes, that's the one... price is certainly right but almost seems too good...I imagine they don't hold as good of value being hard to find parts but still... the 12ft is actually a detriment for me since 10 is pushing it in my shop... it'll fit but might take more space then I'd like.

They say it rises falls and tilts... I'm thinking maybe the display isn't working right.... what else needs to work if the power switches work?

[Mark e Kessler]

If it starts, stops, rises, falls and tilts it “works”. The displays probably does not work and it could be just the readouts themselves or/and hardware that is actually doing the positioning part. The displays do not have any smarts to them they are simply displaying the number that is being measured.

Does the blade brake? All newer German saws brake, I think this vintage would as well but not sure. Brake boards fail over time and need to be replaced, you can choose to not replace, I happen to like that feature. The exact replacement brake board for that saw is probably not available anymore but it might be possible to retrofit it with another.

Sounds like you need to ask a few more questions, why exactly are they selling, why the low price, is there any runout in the arbor, any slop in the ways, how accurate is the cut over 8’, how about 10’ , does it hold calibration day in and day out…ect…


I suspect the low price is a few things could be they probably didn’t pay much to begin with and they got their money’s worth, it needs a part/s to make it 100%, it’s a brand that is no longer supported…ect… It could be they are just interested in making money with their new saw that is coming and want to get rid of it because it is a boat anchor.

I (and others) have said it before and am gona say it again, if it were me starting out I would be looking for an scm, there are tons of them out there, parts are available even for 20+ years old and there is a pretty large community out there for help if you need it.

And one more thing, if it sounds to good to be true it usually is….

Yes, that's the one... price is certainly right but almost seems too good...I imagine they don't hold as good of value being hard to find parts but still... the 12ft is actually a detriment for me since 10 is pushing it in my shop... it'll fit but might take more space then I'd like.

They say it rises falls and tilts... I'm thinking maybe the display isn't working right.... what else needs to work if the power switches work?

[Kurt Wyberanec]

If it starts, stops, rises, falls and tilts it “works”. The displays probably does not work and it could be just the readouts themselves or/and hardware that is actually doing the positioning part. The displays do not have any smarts to them they are simply displaying the number that is being measured.

Does the blade brake? All newer German saws brake, I think this vintage would as well but not sure. Brake boards fail over time and need to be replaced, you can choose to not replace, I happen to like that feature. The exact replacement brake board for that saw is probably not available anymore but it might be possible to retrofit it with another.

Sounds like you need to ask a few more questions, why exactly are they selling, why the low price, is there any runout in the arbor, any slop in the ways, how accurate is the cut over 8’, how about 10’ , does it hold calibration day in and day out…ect…


I suspect the low price is a few things could be they probably didn’t pay much to begin with and they got their money’s worth, it needs a part/s to make it 100%, it’s a brand that is no longer supported…ect… It could be they are just interested in making money with their new saw that is coming and want to get rid of it because it is a boat anchor.

I (and others) have said it before and am gona say it again, if it were me starting out I would be looking for an scm, there are tons of them out there, parts are available even for 20+ years old and there is a pretty large community out there for help if you need it.

And one more thing, if it sounds to good to be true it usually is….

All good things to look at....I believe they told me that everything is working, but the brake is a good question. I believe they said they are getting a modern machine which seems to be the biggest reason, but I agree, a lot to probably check before getting into it.

As for SCM, I haven't ruled them out at all...in fact I'm looking at 3 used units there too. 2 of them are at auction though, one is a Tecnomax that actually has just about everything I'm looking for and looks very clean. The other is a pretty new SC4e, I believe both said shop closure being the reason. But they are auctions and carry all of those risks....and too far for me to see them, and who knows how much they go for. If I had done it before probably wouldn't be too hesitant, but......The other is an older Si16 that is at a reasonable price for a beefy machine, but I still just feel like I might be inheriting problems that if they're not there now will soon be. The Kolle is only really appealing for it's age because of the supposed quality at a price that's probably less than what I can get for my cabinet saw (which at this price I might keep both, but a 12'er might take up too much space to let that happen).

Anyway, all of this is helpful stuff from everyone so thanks!

[Richard Coers]

If you know a hobbyist that really knows CNC, it would be an easy buy. For everybody else, it could easily be a nightmare with very expensive repairs.

[Patrick Kane]

That saw has been for sale for months, i feel. That group must have just upgraded equipment, because i remember they had a 20-25 year old Martin shaper, T43 planer, and 30+ year old martin jointer. I assumed it was a going out of business sale. I remember asking, why do they have a Kolle saw with the rest being martin kit? I also remember it seeming to be a great deal, but its been a great deal for months. Why hasnt someone moved on this yet?

Theres a Felder Kappa with shotty electronics for $2900 out towards you too. I am so so skeptical of early 2000s electronics. Ive read enough on Woodweb that i would barely buy a Martin saw from that era for $1,000. Its all but guaranteed you will be hit with a $5,000 repair within a few short years.

[Kurt Wyberanec]

That saw has been for sale for months, i feel. That group must have just upgraded equipment, because i remember they had a 20-25 year old Martin shaper, T43 planer, and 30+ year old martin jointer. I assumed it was a going out of business sale. I remember asking, why do they have a Kolle saw with the rest being martin kit? I also remember it seeming to be a great deal, but its been a great deal for months. Why hasnt someone moved on this yet?

Theres a Felder Kappa with shotty electronics for $2900 out towards you too. I am so so skeptical of early 2000s electronics. Ive read enough on Woodweb that i would barely buy a Martin saw from that era for $1,000. Its all but guaranteed you will be hit with a $5,000 repair within a few short years.

Hey Patrick, good to know...I only recently found the listing which appeared new... for the kolle is going to require more investigation...

I've been talking with the felder guy, again price is right but another one that claims electronics issue but saw working with work arounds... they can't find the blade guard or the rip fence dro which is disappointing... I'm guessing that's 3k worth just to replace is they have replacement and who knows about the electronics... otherwise seems like another good deal... there's another one like that down south asking 4500 but supposedly in good shape....

I dunno, solid mechanical is the most important but electronics can cause a headache I'm sure

[Kevin Jenness]

Here's a link to the Kolle I mentioned earlier, and they obviously just want it gone. https://vermont.craigslist.org/tls/d...449791019.html Looks as though the carriage slides fore and aft like the old Martin T75.

[Kurt Wyberanec]

Here's a link to the Kolle I mentioned earlier, and they obviously just want it gone. https://vermont.craigslist.org/tls/d...449791019.html Looks as though the carriage slides fore and aft like the old Martin T75.

Just noticed that... is that a good thing or inconvenient? I would imagine it's for increased stability, but I'm wondering if you lose convenience... do you have to change that each time to go from a rip to a cross and for how long? Any thoughts?

[Kevin Jenness]

If I am right about the beam sliding, it's a convenience in that when biased toward the outfeed for crosscutting you don't have to walk as far around to get to the fence. For normal use dicing up sheet stock the beam would be centered on the blade. On the old Martins the beam could be positioned more or less even with the front of the saw table, and could be cranked sideways as well to accommodate a dado set.

Anyway, there's a saw that's in service and they're practically giving it away. The pitfalls of buying an electronic control saw with a defunct brand should be obvious, but if it's not a matter of unavailable proprietary circuit boards it could be a good deal. If I were to buy a saw like that I would unplug it when not in use as I do my lathe's vfd.

[Kurt Wyberanec]

Looks like they say sold now, so moot point....can't wait too long on these things I guess

[Andrew Hughes]

Looks like they say sold now, so moot point....can't wait too long on these things I guess

Could be somebody from the other side of the creek poached it.
Anyone have a trailer I could borrow asking for friend.

[Kurt Wyberanec]

Could be somebody from the other side of the creek poached it.
Anyone have a trailer I could borrow asking for friend.

Wouldn't that be lovely.

[Jared Sankovich]

Wouldn't that be lovely.

Even talking about something in generalities will have it sold out from under you before then end of the day if its a good deal. That isn't limited to any one site or location its just the way it is.

[Michael Schuch]

What makes you think it has been sold? I see the add is still up on Craigslist. Did you call them?

Offer them $1000, they might say yes. I also would be worried about the electronic controls though. The controls could last another 30 years... or be your worst nightmare.

The guys I bought my Casedia sliding table saw from let me have it for $400... you never know what they will accept, especially when the new machine is arriving. My Casedia is all manual so there is nothing to it... except for a WHOLE BUNCH OF METAL!