Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Hot Water Heater

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,719

    Hot Water Heater

    I think I have one of our hot water heaters that is going bad.

    Not sure it's the thermostat or the actual heating element.

    It's in a 4' high crawl space under the house, so tomorrow I'll go under there and hopefully find out the brand and what size heating elements it takes.

    On Amazon, I see lots of repair kits that contain both upper and lower thermostats and heating elements.

    Are these pretty standard across brands?

    They seem pretty straight forward to replace.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    Just a few kinds of heating elements. If the elements are bad, and it's not leaking, you should put another anode rod in it. Will low clearance, you will need a segmented anode rod.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,885
    Most have two elements one top and one bottom. I believe the upper element is the first to turn on. Check for a leaking tp valve as well. I think the lower thermostat is set to a lower temperature then the top?
    Bill D

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    590
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Just a few kinds of heating elements. If the elements are bad, and it's not leaking, you should put another anode rod in it. Will low clearance, you will need a segmented anode rod.
    The anode rod rusts away over time to keep the rest of the tank from rusting away. The anode rod is a sacrificial part that should be replaced every 5 years or so. Once the anode rod has been completely eaten away inside the tank the tank is then attacked by the water and starts rusting away.

    The heating element in my water tank was screwed in VERY TIGHT! Other than that it was very easy to replace.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    I've found that a impact wrench (cordless or air) is the easiest way to remove the elements. Usually they will corrode in place and trying to remove by hand may cause the hex to strip. The blows from the impact do a better job of loosening a stuck one.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,719
    I got under there this morning.

    It's a 47G dumpy tank, got a GE sticker on it, but could not find a sticker with specs. There's a couple of other stickers, one specifying the 47 gallons and has Rheem printed on it (see below).

    So I eye balled 47 gallon tanks online and they look the same as the tank I have.

    So I ordered a flexible anode rod, as the height above the tank is limited, and a Rheem two element and thermostat kit (plus a 1.5" socket).


  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Most have two elements one top and one bottom. I believe the upper element is the first to turn on. Check for a leaking tp valve as well. I think the lower thermostat is set to a lower temperature then the top?
    Bill D

    Lower turns on first, and upper only turns on when cold water (due to the lack of heating by lower) reaches it's level. Remember the inlet dip tube carries cold water to bottom of the heater. It's only a water heater, not a hot water heater. If the water is hot, then you don't need to heat it. Both thermostats are set to the same temperature, but due to sequencing, only one element runs at the time. That's why when the upper goes out, you have no hot water. The lower has turned off, and heater is depending upon upper to heat the water. If only lower is working, the recovery period is longer during use.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    We actually have a hot water heater. There are two in series. One serves the old part of the house. In an addition, there is a Jacuzzi that requires more than one water heater full. The hot water line comes from the old part of the house, and bathrooms and kitchen in that part branch off that hot water line before it gets to the second water heater. The second water heater in series with the first one is a hot water heater, since it's fed by the hot water line from the first one.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    257
    Not to be picky but if you have "hot" water you do not need a heater.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,719
    Two thermostats and two heating elements replaced. Neither looked bad nor had any major build up of calcium (I assume that's mostly what build up)

    Could not get the anode rod out, had a long breaker bar, but started to physically move the heater. Will try an impact wrench tomorrow, unless otherwise advised.

    After about 90 minutes, checked the temperature of the hot water in my kitchen and the master bathroom. The kitchen comes off a different water heater and was 114F. The Master Bath, with the new elements was 123F. So I'm happy, hope the wife will be.

    The items that came out.

    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 03-01-2022 at 6:15 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •