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Thread: My OneFinity has Landed

  1. #61
    That looks great, i just setup my Onefinity a couple weeks ago, did you design the wasteboard file? I have a very basic wasteboard setup right now but I did just order t-tracks and once they come in I plan to set things up more with that and make a nice wasteboard like yours.

    I was really surprised with how sturdy it is, i was a bit worried about the hollowed rods but it is built like a tank.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Yes, I designed the spoilboard but would do it differently the next time. The 1/4" dowel holes are too sloppy for precision alignment. The grid is of no real value either. For my work, what I value above all else is being able to register parts in the X and Y planes that are absolutely parallel with those planes. To do that I screwed a piece of plywood to the spoilboard and then milled a right angle in it. So simple, and really effective.

    If you have not already done so, check that the machine is really, truly square. I thought I had it set up square, but then I found that my 90 deg cuts were not really 90 degrees. 1/32" difference on the diagonals is not good enough if you want 90.0 degrees.

    As Kevin mentioned earlier, holding things down securely is really, really important. I've had several cases where parts have moved a few thousandths, or more, which resulted in parts that don't fit properly. For folks doing carvings, etc. rigidly holding parts isn't all that important, though always a good thing, but for anyone making furniture or cabinet parts with joinery it's critical. I'm still searching for the best way to go about it.

    Good luck. I'm sure you'll enjoy the 1F. Mine has performed flawlessly, absolutely no complaints, and it's far more capable than I am at this point. I've done carvings, inlays, moldings, and cabinet and furniture parts with it. I thought these little birds were especially fun.


  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    I just saw this. I like the lead screws on the X/Y as my Shapeoko only has a lead screw on the Z, with belts on X/Y which seem to stay put and not slip. My circle-diamond-square test cuts are good. Enjoy it; it'll open up new possibilities with woodworking.

  4. #64
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    Jeff, lead screws or rack and pinion are absolutely good to have for better precision. If you want to see the rack and pinion setup for X-Y which is more typical for industrial designs, I'll be happy to show you my machine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #65
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    Jul 2014
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    Thanks, Jim. Do you have it set up in your temp shop? You have a Stinger, right?

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Ramsey View Post
    Thanks, Jim. Do you have it set up in your temp shop? You have a Stinger, right?
    Yes, my temporary shop is "fully functional'...err, without a DC until the new one arrives later in the week...and yes, Stinger II SR-44. I'm in D'town a half a block from DeVal. Happy to show the machine to you at any mutually convenient time. Even when a particular machine isn't "the one", getting a feel for how various manufacturers construct them is valuable information that can help with later decisions, if the stars align.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
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    The OneFinity uses ball screws, not lead screws. The difference is a lead screw is like a nut on a bolt. They both have matching threads and when the bolt turns it moves the nut. A ball screw has balls (like a ball bearing has) that connect the two parts. A lead screw has more friction and will wear quicker.

  8. #68
    John,

    now that you have had the Onefinity for a while how do you like it, do you think you will update to a spindle or keep using the router? Hows the accuracy and repeatability?

    I was interested in one (may still be) but sent an email with some questions and was not impressed with the responses (rude, lack of detail, knowledge ect). Now looking at the Avid pro, Camaster and Shop Sabre currently leaning towards the avid pro because the 4’x 2’ fits and is expandable but I like the Camaster and Shop Sabre because they look more rigid.
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 11-13-2022 at 9:26 PM.

  9. #69
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    Mark, the welded steel structure of the Camaster and Shop Sabre are definitely more rigid! But as you say, there can be a case for upgradability/extensibility with the AVID.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #70
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    Hi Mark,

    1F usually does an amazingly good job with customer service. Did you ask them about accuracy and repeatability? I sent them an email asking that and got a vague response citing how many steps / second, some other things that avoided really answering the question. They weren't rude, but it was clear they didn't want to answer the question. As far as I can tell, there's no way to actually figure out those values from the data they provide. I've asked the same question on the 1F user's forum and gotten no clear answer either. I would have thought someone there would have pursued it to real answers, but apparently not. The good news is the machine is very capable.

    As for my 1F it's been rock solid. No issues beyond my own stupidity. The machine has been flawless and easy to use. From my perspective, that of a woodworker, the accuracy and repeatability are far beyond what I can accomplish by hand. I can make a 0.002" adjustment and actually measure it on the cut part. Parts that are supposed to be round are truly round, square parts are truly square. I have not had to make any adjustments to the machine since I first set it up in April. I probably only have 150 hours on it, so not a lot.

    I have not had any problems with the controller going rogue during the middle of a program as some have reported, nor lost steps from static or overloading the steppers from heavy cuts. I took reasonable care to keep power cords separate from the stepper motor cables during installation and installed ferrite cores on all lines. I'm using a shopvac for dust collection; no issues with interference from it, either. I'm using an old laptop to interface with the controller, rather than a touch screen. I like it that way; I prefer using a mouse than touching a screen, but either approach can be used. I load G-code through the laptop, too, instead of with a thumb drive into the controller. Just easier for the way I like to work. I do not have my machine hooked up to wifi, but that is an option that many use, too.

    The Makita router is fine for what I'm asking of it. If you plan to run it hard hour after hour you would want a spindle. I can see upgrading to a spindle at some point, but it's certainly not needed to do high quality work. I tell it I want a part 12" x 6", for example, and I measure parts that are 12. 00X" x 6.00X". At that point, I'm not concerned with the value of X. The router is loud compared to a spindle when neither is cutting wood, but when making heavy cuts I doubt they are much different. The spindle has a decided noise advantage when making cuts where the bit isn't working very hard though, like detailed carvings. Still, the machine is in my shop. I run routers and all manner of other machines all the time. The router on the CNC is no different for me.

    I would have liked the Avid but the price point was substantially higher than the 1F. 1F is the value leader in the hobby/light commercial use arena when you compare price to size and performance. I hope this info. helped as you consider what to buy. Good luck with whatever machine you chose. The CNC has opened new ways of working and new possibilities for me. I hope it does the same for you.

    John

  11. #71
    Yea, I am really drawn to the steel framed CNC’s and do really like/leaning towards the Camaster. I always like to try to overbuy by a slight amount to future proof however at this point I don’t have the space so I would be limited to the 4’x2’ (4’x3’ could work but they don’t have that) and just not sure if the 2’ is enough, I only do furniture and very rare cabinet (I spend years doing cabinets and commercial work…no more please…). At some point i will have more space but that’s probably at least 5 years out.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Mark, the welded steel structure of the Camaster and Shop Sabre are definitely more rigid! But as you say, there can be a case for upgradability/extensibility with the AVID.
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 11-15-2022 at 10:28 PM.

  12. #72
    John thanks for the detailed response,

    As far as far as their responses go maybe I got them on a bad day, but it gave me the feeling that they are new to this and not willing to answer the hard questions, their target market is a hobby guy/gal that just buys it and uses it as is.

    I typically like to buy at least one level above what I think I need but with CNC that can get really expensive, I am liking the camaster but feel the 4’x2’ could potentially be problematic as far as the 2’ dim goes. I was thinking of going with the Shaper Origin but while it has it pluses (bring it to the work, takes up little space) the drawbacks are real (Slow, tedious, large cuts can be inaccurate…) and I tried one and sent it back in the 30day trial period, the main reason I was reconsidering was due to minimal space requirements.

    I like that you are getting good results with the router although it keeps the entry cost low, I just hate buying twice, I feel like if i get the 1finity I will upgrade down the road if i went with the camaster less likely however the camaster is like 3 times the cost…

    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Hi Mark,

    1F usually does an amazingly good job with customer service. Did you ask them about accuracy and repeatability? I sent them an email asking that and got a vague response citing how many steps / second, some other things that avoided really answering the question. They weren't rude, but it was clear they didn't want to answer the question. As far as I can tell, there's no way to actually figure out those values from the data they provide. I've asked the same question on the 1F user's forum and gotten no clear answer either. I would have thought someone there would have pursued it to real answers, but apparently not. The good news is the machine is very capable.

    As for my 1F it's been rock solid. No issues beyond my own stupidity. The machine has been flawless and easy to use. From my perspective, that of a woodworker, the accuracy and repeatability are far beyond what I can accomplish by hand. I can make a 0.002" adjustment and actually measure it on the cut part. Parts that are supposed to be round are truly round, square parts are truly square. I have not had to make any adjustments to the machine since I first set it up in April. I probably only have 150 hours on it, so not a lot.

    I have not had any problems with the controller going rogue during the middle of a program as some have reported, nor lost steps from static or overloading the steppers from heavy cuts. I took reasonable care to keep power cords separate from the stepper motor cables during installation and installed ferrite cores on all lines. I'm using a shopvac for dust collection; no issues with interference from it, either. I'm using an old laptop to interface with the controller, rather than a touch screen. I like it that way; I prefer using a mouse than touching a screen, but either approach can be used. I load G-code through the laptop, too, instead of with a thumb drive into the controller. Just easier for the way I like to work. I do not have my machine hooked up to wifi, but that is an option that many use, too.

    The Makita router is fine for what I'm asking of it. If you plan to run it hard hour after hour you would want a spindle. I can see upgrading to a spindle at some point, but it's certainly not needed to do high quality work. I tell it I want a part 12" x 6", for example, and I measure parts that are 12. 00X" x 6.00X". At that point, I'm not concerned with the value of X. The router is loud compared to a spindle when neither is cutting wood, but when making heavy cuts I doubt they are much different. The spindle has a decided noise advantage when making cuts where the bit isn't working very hard though, like detailed carvings. Still, the machine is in my shop. I run routers and all manner of other machines all the time. The router on the CNC is no different for me.

    I would have liked the Avid but the price point was substantially higher than the 1F. 1F is the value leader in the hobby/light commercial use arena when you compare price to size and performance. I hope this info. helped as you consider what to buy. Good luck with whatever machine you chose. The CNC has opened new ways of working and new possibilities for me. I hope it does the same for you.

    John

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    Yea, I am really drawn to the steel framed CNC’s and do really like/leaning towards the Camaster. I always like to try to overbuy by a slight amount to future proof however at this point I don’t have the space so I would be limited to the 4’x2’ (4’x3’ could work but they don’t have that) and just not sure if the 2’ is enough, I only do furniture and very rare cabinet (I spend years doing cabinets and commercial work…no more please…). At some point i will have more space but that’s probably at least 5 years out.
    Stinger II SR-34 is 3x4, but keep in mind that the machines are larger than the cutting footprint. My Stinger II SR-44 (4x4 cutting area) requires a space that's about 6' wide and nearly 8' long, not including access space. Shop Sabre's equivalents will be similar in physical size and comportment. As will be AVID, etc., although there is extensibility in the future.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
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    I have used some large bits on my 1F (the last one was a 3" diameter round bit) and I did see some deflection. I was making a wooden square dinner plate and where it changed directions in the corner is where I saw it. But it was the inside of the plate and changed from face to end grain. It wasn't enough so it couldn't be sanded out but clearly large bits will give better results on a machine like a Camaster. But you are paying for the extra strength and the extra speed it gets you. If you can justify moving up to that level of machine I would do it.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    The Makita router costs $100. You can move up to a Huanyang spindle on the 1F for about $500, or a German one for around $1K. You would still be multiples below a Camaster, even if you bought all three.

    1F's primary customer is the hobby market, without question. There are many light industrial users as well, but 1F does not appear focused on that segment of the market, nor at all on even higher level users. You have to decide whether or not that's a showstopper for you. For my needs, and probably any hobbiest's, the 1F works w/o compromise. Your choice might be different and could be driven by the CAD/CAM software you want to run. All Vectric products work on the 1F, but I have no clue about higher level products.

    John

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