Shaper Origin

[Nick Lazz]

Been debating on getting this for a while. Found a supplier that would sell me their demo (Gen1) for a good price... good enough. Barely used. I have compared the Gen 1 and Gen 2 and there really isn't probably enough difference for me to to spend the extra $ to buy the Gen 2.

Anyone have any input on why the newest model is worth the extra money? The biggest issues for me are the flat bottom on the Gen 2, bigger and more detailed screen, and of course future support etc.

Does the bottom of the Gen 1, bother anyone or get in the way of some work pieces?

Thanks,

Nick

[Dave Sabo]

What are you going to use this for primarily ?

That might answer your question.

if you’re just getting it because it was a “good deal” or “it’d be nice to have” ; then it won’t make a bit of difference.

[Nick Lazz]

That's a reasonable question. But with this type of machine, I mean, aren't you figuring out ways to use it? If not if was a bad purchase in the first place. If I'm doing it, I'm using it and figuring out the best ways to use it or I'm selling it to one of you guys!

[Phillip Mitchell]

What do you see in the capability of a Shaper Origin that prompts you to say “I need/want that” or at least warrant strong consideration to purchase? This is an actual question and not sarcasm or rhetorical.

I have seen videos and bits here and there from other folks who use it for inlay type work as well as a range of special hinge mortising templates / files. I can’t really wrap my head around what I would use it for that would justify the price tag / ROI but I do this professionally and do work that is not what I’d call trendy so I don’t know.

[Bob Hinden]

I have had the Gen 1 for a year or so. From what I read, Gen 2 is improved in a few ways, but functionally the same.
I noticed that have some specials on their web site, you might take a look at that before deciding.

Bob

[Richard Coers]

I've never felt the touch off sensor on the bottom when working with it on flat stock or the workstation. I do keep a coat of wax on the base though, maybe that makes the difference. The sensor works very well for depth setting.

[Bill Dufour]

I have no idea what you are talking about! Rotary shapers have been around for well over 150 years. My great grandfather retired on a patent for a picket fence shaper cutter machine around 1880. that was not the first generation by a long shot.
Bill D

[Dave Sabo]

That's a reasonable question. But with this type of machine, I mean, aren't you figuring out ways to use it? If not if was a bad purchase in the first place.

So, you've bought a $2-3000 solution and now you're looking for problems to solve with it ?

Let's not too fine a tack on it, but you've bought a status symbol - not a tool to perform a task. Don't worry though, you're not alone. You'll be fine with the Gen1.

[Mark Visconti]

It is amazing for inlays especially if you don't have the skills/patience to do them by hand. Also, if you have something that you need to route accurately and don't want to make a jig, it's a great for that as well, although there are some limitations (bit depth and size)

It does require some level of computer skill to create the .svg files, although there are plenty available if you're using something as a template.

If you enjoy designing on a computer and woodworking, it is a nice combination and really scratches an itch. More hands on than CNC, less intimidating, but on the other hand, if you're planning to produce many copies of something, there are more efficient ways to do so. That said, it can help you make an accurate jig so that you can then produce many copies with traditional routing with a pattern bit.

It's also not the tool to do everything. I think in some cases it is a hammer looking for a nail. Don't cut that piece of wood by routing through it with the shaper, take it over to the table saw. That's a bit of an extreme example, but not totally off the mark.

Also, if you can get a good discount on the Gen 1, I wouldn't consider the Gen 2. While it's an upgrade, Shaper has yet to explain why one really needs to have it.

Hope that helps.

[Kevin Jenness]

The differences don't appear great enough to buy the new version over a discounted early one, assuming you "need" one in the first place.

My former employer has the first version and uses it successfully for small inlay and template projects but they sub out larger cnc work. When they tried to use it for line boring odd-size holes on tall panels the hole sizes were consistent but the stacked line lengths were not. The mfr basically said, that's the way it works, so I would be skeptical of its abilities on large scale stuff depending on the details.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have no idea what you are talking about! Rotary shapers have been around for well over 150 years. My great grandfather retired on a patent for a picket fence shaper cutter machine around 1880. that was not the first generation by a long shot.
Bill D

They're talking about these things Bill.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxjE5WOAGi4

A Shaper Origin is a hand held CNC machine.

[Andrew More]

My former employer has the first version and uses it successfully for small inlay and template projects but they sub out larger cnc work. When they tried to use it for line boring odd-size holes on tall panels the hole sizes were consistent but the stacked line lengths were not. The mfr basically said, that's the way it works, so I would be skeptical of its abilities on large scale stuff depending on the details.

Sorry, what's a stacked line length? Are you saying the holes were in the wrong places?

[John TenEyck]

I considered the Shaper Origin when I was thinking of buying a CNC. My conclusion was that it's great for inlay work on surfaces too large for hobby level size CNC's, and maybe for some job site work like routing door hinge pockets, etc. But for applications where it would compete with a conventional CNC that machine wins every time, although that's another step up in price. The Shaper is a lot of money for what it does. Plus, it requires your undivided attention to use it. With a traditional CNC you program it, mount the work, let it loose, and go do something else while it's working.

John

[Nick Lazz]

So, you've bought a $2-3000 solution and now you're looking for problems to solve with it ?

Let's not too fine a tack on it, but you've bought a status symbol - not a tool to perform a task. Don't worry though, you're not alone. You'll be fine with the Gen1.

I haven't purchased anything yet. Maybe my conceptions are misconceptions, but I see the machine not only making multiple tasks easier and quicker, but with a higher degree of accuracy. My problem and sometimes my reluctance on performing some steps on projects is the set up and or contemplating a jig to make in order to perform that task accurately and with repeatability.

As some have said, the files they have on certain hinges etc, I simply don't use. And probably won't. I see it more for inlay work, making parts for projects that I would normally try to find hardware to solve and of course the stuff I mentioned above.
I don't have the room and can't justify the cost of a real CNC... thought this might be a reasonable compromise. Albeit, and expensive one in it's own right.

[Kevin Jenness]

Sorry, what's a stacked line length? Are you saying the holes were in the wrong places?

Yes, the ending points of different lines of holes varied by something on the order of +/- 1/16" over 9 ft.