Shaper precision height adjustments

[Mike Kees]

I have been using product with an MDF core the last while. This is more uniform in thickness than plain plywood that I used in the past. However the thickness varies from lot to lot as well as the two suppliers that I deal with. Once all the after effects from Covid work their way through the supply chain, maybe I will be able to rely on one consistent source of material and things will be easier. Who knows how long that could take. So for the immediate future it makes sense to me just to set up to deal with it.

[brent stanley]

I prefer a rabbeted panel for sturdiness and consistent tongue thickness. Plywood often varies in thickness even within one sheet, and 1/4" ply feels a bit thin to me in a cabinet door. I find a 3/8" or 1/2" panel with less than 1/8" reveal on the back better looking than a 1/4 " panel that is loose in spots. I set the groover height so I can use the same setup for rabbeting the panels.

I've always made out fine within the same shipment of ply up here, but I agree that a nominal 1/4" panel feels kinda wimpy. MDF will mill pretty cleanly and I've had good luck with BB and even milled a decorative scoop out of the back of 12mm BB to fit painted panels with good results. You're typically better off with higher grades of ply too with respect to how cleanly rebating the back works out.

[Warren Lake]

I only use 3/8" and up. Solid will be more, all will be back cut with some type of cutter, steel if it is solid most likely and different carbide for the ply. Amount of back cut, how far in will vary. Thos moser back cuts his panels a minor amount in fact from what I remember he was doing that on fronts of panels instead of the traditional raised panel look. I had a job years back where material came in over thickness and decided then I will never depend on material to be consistent. Back cutting allows you to size perfectly takes out any material fluctuation and you get the fit you want, thicker panel you make a better door. Ill do mortise and tennon and haunch, back cut a thicker panel and tell the customer they are getting a properly made door.

[Bill Dufour]

Something like this 6" quill dro with remote display. Around $30. Or spend three times that and get a real digital scale and remote single axis readout with big numbers you can see
Bill D.

[Bill Dufour]

Note that a real DRO has lots of functions you do not need. All you need is basic inch/metric and zero function. No need to calculate bolt circles, angles, offsets etc.
Bill D

Shars tool company is kind of like the Grizzly of machine shop tools. Good value not crazy good at ridiculous prices. Well worth looking at their measuring tools and drill bits.
https://www.shars.com/products

[Rod Sheridan]

I added a digital mechanical gauge to my shaper, works great.

I also have a freestanding digital height gauge.

For rails and stiles I have a notebook with settings for different cutters, the mechanical height gauge is perfect for that, no need to measure, put the cutter, or spacer and cutter on, crank it to the height recorded in the book.

Regards, Rod

[Mike Kees]

Ordered a height gauge and dial caliper from Lee Valley this morning. Think that will shorten my set up time significantly. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[Rod Sheridan]

Sounds like the height gauge I have Mike……Rod

[Phillip Mitchell]

I added a digital mechanical gauge to my shaper, works great.

I also have a freestanding digital height gauge.

For rails and stiles I have a notebook with settings for different cutters, the mechanical height gauge is perfect for that, no need to measure, put the cutter, or spacer and cutter on, crank it to the height recorded in the book.

Regards, Rod

Rod,

Care to share details on what digital mechanical gauge you put on your shaper? Brand, pics, etc?

This has been on my mind a lot lately as well after adding a Pro Scale DRO to my planer last fall and wondering why in the world I waited so long. Suddenly the shaker is a bit more frustrating to set up in comparison

[Rod Sheridan]

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...adout-sp124010

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...wheel-sp607962

Hi Phillip, this is what I used, the gauge has a one revolution = 2mm scale, available in metric or imperial.

I have the metric one, my brother has the imperial one.

This is same gauge as on my planer.

If your machine has the same multiplier it will work and is accurate to 0.05mm if I remember correctly.

It works great and doesn't require batteries..................Regards, Rod.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Thanks Rod,

Do I still need the Felder handwheel if my oem (SCM) handwheel does the same 2mm per rotation? I’m trying to see how the gauge/readout and the handwheel are linked, but not quite getting the full picture from the Felder website.

[Jacques Gagnon]

Thanks Rod,

Do I still need the Felder handwheel if my oem (SCM) handwheel does the same 2mm per rotation? I’m trying to see how the gauge/readout and the handwheel are linked, but not quite getting the full picture from the Felder website.

The outside diameter of the dial on my Hammer machine (the same one as Rod) is 84.5mm. On the Felder machines the dial fits inside the hand wheel. Short of having a hollow center hand wheel, I suppose that one may be able to fasten the dial somehow on the outside of the OEM you currently have.

Regards,

J.

[Greg Quenneville]

There are a few manufacturers of handwheel dials in a variety of calibrations. McMaster might have them. Elesa is one make, and I will search my bookmarks later for others.