Router Table Upgrade Advice

[Patrick Varley]

Just looking for some advice on an upgrade path.

Currently I have an older Freud FT2000E (switch broke, so speed control is bypassed and it runs on an external speed control) in a basic router plate on a TS extension wing. Works well enough, but honestly I want to move it out of the extension wing into it's own mobile cart. Just doesn't fit my workflow very well in the wing. At the same time, would be great if I could upgrade to something and get above-the-table height adjustment and bit changes. While I know I could go big and just upgrade both the router and get something like a Mast-R-Lift, I'd also like to keep things on a bit more of a budget (<$250) with an option to upgrade to something bigger down the road. I also have a Bosch 1617 laying around which gets less use now that most of my hand routing can be done with a cordless DeWalt palm router.

So I've figured out two potential options:
1) Keep the Freud, and buy a new plate and add a Router Raizer to get the height adjustment.
2) Buy the Jessem Rout R Lift II and use the 1617 in it.

Both options end up being similar in cost. Option 2 seems like it would be more convenient and is probably my preference, but comes at the expense of dropping from a 3.25HP router to a 2.25 HP router with the Bosch. So I suppose my question is whether I'll be losing much by doing that. I don't spin any big bits for panels, etc. Would appreciate any insight or other potential options.

[Jim Becker]

Those are reasonable options. Another is to get a router for under table use that's designed to support above table adjustments, such as the Triton, while retaining the higher amperage and power rating.

[james manutes]

There are options from Rockler and Kreg on lifts , less than $300 . Not as nice as Jess-Em , but not bad .

[glenn bradley]

I'd say something about being sorry for folks having to solve these problems in the post COVID priced world but then I sound like my parents . We can be thankful that now there are several lift options that don't require one to go the full distance to a Woodpecker, Incra, etc. Certainly the most cost effective is still the big Triton TRA001 that gives you a nigh amperage, torque controlled motor with a pretty decent lift feature built in. A move to the solidity of a billet machined style lift can double your cost ~$300 for the lift and ~$300 for the motor. Is the Triton (or other) as good as a dedicated motor in a massive lift housing? No. Is it pretty darn close? Yes. We always have to make cost / benefit decisions. I have a (at the time) $50 straight edge. It has met all my needs. I could have bought a $300 one and the cost benefit ration would have been all messed up. I spent that extra $250 on other things. Do your research, read EVERYTHING folks have to say and then apply your new knowledge to the decision that suits you best

[Charles Lent]

My next router table is going to have the big Triton router in it, since it allows easy above the table adjustments and since it does not require a router lift or insert. It will be bolted direct to the under side of the table. I like the Sommerfeld Router Table Top and fence design, so I'll likely have them, but I will hinge the top so it lifts up from the front so I can gain access to the router when access is needed. I'll buy some gas springs to make lifting and holding the top up easy and safe, to work under too. The cabinet below the top will likely be a cross between the design offered by Marc Sommerfeld DVD and the one designed and built by Norm Abram.

I don't like router table inserts, because they can move sideways in most router table tops designed for them. Though this shift is small, it does affect the final result. Why buy a router lift, when a large and reliable router is available that has above the table adjustment and easy bit changing above the table already built into it ? My age and knee replacements make it difficult and sometimes impossible to work on my routers when I need to get down low to reach under the table to work on it. This is my reason for wanting a lifting table top, but as all of you age, there will be a time when this is important to you too. Why not have it now?

Charley

[Patrick Varley]

Thanks everyone.

Triton TRA001 seems like a good compromise while only being a bit more expensive. I do like the idea of potentially avoiding a separate plate altogether. But question on that: is there someway to use some version of the reducer rings that mount into the various plates in a DIY setup? I know I could probably just cut a rabbet around the hole and fabricate my own rings, but I like the idea of something that locks/snaps into place.

[Mark Brewer]

I have a Benchdog cast iron table on a mobile base I built with parts from another mobile cart, using a PC 690 series router with a Rockler lift. I also only use 1/2 inch shank router bits.

[Anuj Prateek]

I have rout-r-lift package. I have DeWalt 618 mounted in it. I love it. It came perfectly flat, assembly was quick and the lift is smooth. This is the first lift I have used and love the repeatability of height adjustment. Before this I had a shop made table.

Things I would do differently, if buying again:
- I would skip the stand. It's of subpar quality.
- I may buy mast-r-lift. It can accept bigger routers so would have been good in terms of future proofing.

Problems:
- One of the wood fence face was cupped and bowed ever so slightly. Due to this it was not coplanar with other face. Few swipes from hand plane fixed it. With wood this is expected.
- There was inconsistent gap between table and stand top rails. Had to spend decent btime shimming the rails. This was not expected.

One post talks about plate moving sideways in table. This lift has zero side by side movement. There are two adjustments specifically to eliminate this.

[glenn bradley]

I’m sure folks are different but if you do much different stuff at the router table you will want a few different throat inserts. I have about a half a dozen stepped in 1/8’s plus a template collar size and they all get used.

[Alan Lightstone]

I’m sure folks are different but if you do much different stuff at the router table you will want a few different throat inserts. I have about a half a dozen stepped in 1/8’s plus a template collar size and they all get used.

Couldn't agree more. Unfortunately, my Ready-2-Rout system only has a couple of inserts. Could desperately use a few more sizes. It's incompatible with the variety of inserts I'm accumulated from other router lifts.

[Derek Cohen]

Just looking for some advice on an upgrade path.

Currently I have an older Freud FT2000E (switch broke, so speed control is bypassed and it runs on an external speed control) in a basic router plate on a TS extension wing. Works well enough, but honestly I want to move it out of the extension wing into it's own mobile cart. Just doesn't fit my workflow very well in the wing. At the same time, would be great if I could upgrade to something and get above-the-table height adjustment and bit changes. While I know I could go big and just upgrade both the router and get something like a Mast-R-Lift, I'd also like to keep things on a bit more of a budget (<$250) with an option to upgrade to something bigger down the road. I also have a Bosch 1617 laying around which gets less use now that most of my hand routing can be done with a cordless DeWalt palm router.

So I've figured out two potential options:
1) Keep the Freud, and buy a new plate and add a Router Raizer to get the height adjustment.
2) Buy the Jessem Rout R Lift II and use the 1617 in it.

Both options end up being similar in cost. Option 2 seems like it would be more convenient and is probably my preference, but comes at the expense of dropping from a 3.25HP router to a 2.25 HP router with the Bosch. So I suppose my question is whether I'll be losing much by doing that. I don't spin any big bits for panels, etc. Would appreciate any insight or other potential options.

Patrick, the Freud has 3 1/4 hp, which makes it a powerful engine. All you need is a way to raise-and-lower, and change bits easily. With these you have the basis of a good - and inexpensive - upgrade.

The Router Raizer works very well. I have one attached to an Elu.

For above-table bit changes, add a MuscleChuck. This also converts to a simple tightening collar.



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bill Dufour]

For that money you can buy a used cast iron table top shaper. For $400 or less get a used 1.5HP shaper with a real fence.
This Delta one on C-list is $200 in Bakersfield. bearings are about all that can go wrong.
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

The issue with even the small shapers is that for small tooling typically used in router tables, they don't have the RPM necessary to support proper chip load and clean cutting for the "general woodworker". The cost of real shaper tooling, even for small spindles, tends to be a lot more than for a router. Again, I'm addressing the "average Joe/Jane" woodworker. Shapers indeed are the right choice for the heavier tasks if one's work needs that.

[Patrick Varley]

Patrick, the Freud has 3 1/4 hp, which makes it a powerful engine. All you need is a way to raise-and-lower, and change bits easily. With these you have the basis of a good - and inexpensive - upgrade.

The Router Raizer works very well. I have one attached to an Elu.

For above-table bit changes, add a MuscleChuck. This also converts to a simple tightening collar.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Wow, thanks Derek. Had never heard of the Musclechuck, but after watching some videos it looks intriguing. That combined with a Router Raizer would seemingly address my issues while allowing me to keep using the Freud. Admittedly. I'm also concerned that as an older unit, the Freud may give out on me and I'd prefer not to dump money on upgrading it specifically only to be outta luck in a year or two. However it seems that I could always just get a DeWalt 625 and switch both upgrades over to that if I needed a repalcement.

Many good options...thanks to all.

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick, my Elu is the forerunner of the Dewalt DW625.

This is the set up for the 625 …



The Elu 177e minus handles …



The router table is built into the outfeed of a Hammer K3 slider …



The fence is shopmade. Details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...Adventure.html

Regards from Perth

Derek