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Thread: 220v woodworking equipment and EV charging on the same outlet?

  1. #16
    thanks everyone. Garage already has a sub panel, so I guess I'm 1 step ahead. Its actually detached from the house and there are 7 single pole slots available. Biggest things I have in this panel now is 30amp for the water heater (for the finished room's bathroom above the garage) and a 20amp for the mini-split AC. and then a bunch of other single pole breakers for the lights and garage door openers, etc.

    it's a 3 car garage and the panel is on 1 of the sides. I think I'm ok with 1-2 of the 220v outlets on that same side of the garage as I can easily move tools around. This will make for a super short run of maybe 5-10 feet from the panel so hopefully this'll be a pretty easy job.

    Before I knew I could run both tools and charger on the same circuit (at diff times) I had found this charger, and a couple others, with selectable amperage. I thought that was pretty neat and thought I could just select the 24v one if I was limited to a 30amp circuit. they do have one with a 14-50 plug, too.

    https://grizzl-e.com/home-products/

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Herman View Post
    just to make up the part left out, hard wired stuff follows a different standard than an outlet.
    I was responding to the comment that you could hard wire a tablesaw to a 100A breaker.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Heck View Post
    thanks everyone. Garage already has a sub panel, so I guess I'm 1 step ahead. Its actually detached from the house and there are 7 single pole slots available. Biggest things I have in this panel now is 30amp for the water heater (for the finished room's bathroom above the garage) and a 20amp for the mini-split AC. and then a bunch of other single pole breakers for the lights and garage door openers, etc.

    it's a 3 car garage and the panel is on 1 of the sides. I think I'm ok with 1-2 of the 220v outlets on that same side of the garage as I can easily move tools around. This will make for a super short run of maybe 5-10 feet from the panel so hopefully this'll be a pretty easy job.

    Before I knew I could run both tools and charger on the same circuit (at diff times) I had found this charger, and a couple others, with selectable amperage. I thought that was pretty neat and thought I could just select the 24v one if I was limited to a 30amp circuit. they do have one with a 14-50 plug, too.

    https://grizzl-e.com/home-products/
    Oh, then you're halfway home. But with that much room in the panel, I'd still consider just having them run two separate breakers. Won't add very much if it's a short run, and while you might not use the charger and saw at the same time, you may at some point use two 220v tools at the same time (e.g. dust collector and anything else).

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Funk View Post
    I was responding to the comment that you could hard wire a tablesaw to a 100A breaker.
    We don't know if the op has a 2hp grizzly or a 7.5hp delta saw.

  5. #20
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    there is absolutely no reason to have a charger with selectable max amperage. the car will only take what it can use, and will adjust to the charge curve of the battery. a higher amp capacity charge cord will just work with more and faster charging cars.

    remember, the box on the wall is just an adaptor that can talk to the car and switch some relays, the car has the actual "charger". the thing on the wall asks if the car is ready to charge, and if the car says yes, it hits the relays and sends 220v to the car. the car uses whatever current it needs up to the max of the adaptor.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post
    We don't know if the op has a 2hp grizzly or a 7.5hp delta saw.
    True, we don't. The point was there are limits on the maximum size of the breaker used to protect the circuit.

    You're also not supposed to chop the plug off a toaster and replace it with a 50A plug so you can use a dryer outlet. It will work but it's not as safe as it could be and if you have a fire caused by the undersized cord burning up the insurance company wouldn't need to pay.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Herman View Post
    there is absolutely no reason to have a charger with selectable max amperage. the car will only take what it can use, and will adjust to the charge curve of the battery. a higher amp capacity charge cord will just work with more and faster charging cars.

    remember, the box on the wall is just an adaptor that can talk to the car and switch some relays, the car has the actual "charger". the thing on the wall asks if the car is ready to charge, and if the car says yes, it hits the relays and sends 220v to the car. the car uses whatever current it needs up to the max of the adaptor.
    Charger's have adjustable/selectable max amperage to allow them to be plugged into circuits with different capabilities from 120/15A to 220/50A. Depending on what you select the 'wall charger' will communicate the max value to the car's actual charger. With Tesla's chargers the selection is either made at installation or by the plug adapter (for the mobile connector).

  8. #23
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    Some of the charging stations also adapt for charging two EVs simultaneously in a residential situation.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Herman View Post
    there is absolutely no reason to have a charger with selectable max amperage. the car will only take what it can use, and will adjust to the charge curve of the battery. a higher amp capacity charge cord will just work with more and faster charging cars.

    remember, the box on the wall is just an adaptor that can talk to the car and switch some relays, the car has the actual "charger". the thing on the wall asks if the car is ready to charge, and if the car says yes, it hits the relays and sends 220v to the car. the car uses whatever current it needs up to the max of the adaptor.
    My friend wishes that was true. And believe me, I'm no Tesla basher (I'm on my second one - a Plaid), but my friend just had his Tesla Model S, for whatever reason, decide to try to charge 80 amps on his NEMA 14-50 receptacle, and it melted the plug and started melting the wire in the wall. The breaker (which was improperly sized by his electrician as 40 amps instead of 50 amps for a NEMA 14-50 outlet) flipped very late, and the wire in the wall was sized for the 40 amp circuit. No one is quite sure why the car kept trying to set itself to 80 amps (it properly worked that way in his old house with the Tesla 80 amp wall charger), but in this new house, after a number of months, one night the car set itself for more than it should have been able to try to draw, and melting/fire resulted.

    So I'm pretty happy that in my house I have a Tesla wall charger, with the DIP switches inside that limiting my charging rate, and the car knows that too. So even if the car somehow tried to charge at a higher rate (a choice that shouldn't be allowed on the UI), the charger wouldn't try to provide it.

    That being said, I got my wall charger free from Tesla. In my last house I had a NEMA 14-50, which is what I suggest to people to get for their electric cars.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  10. #25
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    As Jim suggested I would at least look at installing a sub panel. With a sub panel you will be future proofed. You could also ad other 220/240v plugs later on if you get other tools that require it.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    My friend wishes that was true. And believe me, I'm no Tesla basher (I'm on my second one - a Plaid), but my friend just had his Tesla Model S, for whatever reason, decide to try to charge 80 amps on his NEMA 14-50 receptacle, and it melted the plug and started melting the wire in the wall. The breaker (which was improperly sized by his electrician as 40 amps instead of 50 amps for a NEMA 14-50 outlet) flipped very late, and the wire in the wall was sized for the 40 amp circuit. No one is quite sure why the car kept trying to set itself to 80 amps (it properly worked that way in his old house with the Tesla 80 amp wall charger), but in this new house, after a number of months, one night the car set itself for more than it should have been able to try to draw, and melting/fire resulted.

    So I'm pretty happy that in my house I have a Tesla wall charger, with the DIP switches inside that limiting my charging rate, and the car knows that too. So even if the car somehow tried to charge at a higher rate (a choice that shouldn't be allowed on the UI), the charger wouldn't try to provide it.

    That being said, I got my wall charger free from Tesla. In my last house I had a NEMA 14-50, which is what I suggest to people to get for their electric cars.
    oh damn, well fair enough! sounds like it could be a problem with the adaptor, but who knows. We have always used clipper creek stuff and have not had any issues.

  12. #27
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    We just installed the Tesla charger, though don't have the car yet. Between last year's tax break, not having to run an extraneous neutral wire, and not having to buy a relatively expensive outlet the wall charger was basically a freebie.

  13. #28
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    We sure want an EV, Its doubtful that we will be able to afford one any time soon. I hope the fire on the Felicity Ace was not caused by an EV.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Mcmurry View Post
    We sure want an EV, Its doubtful that we will be able to afford one any time soon. I hope the fire on the Felicity Ace was not caused by an EV.
    There are a number of more affordable EVs debuting this year...Toyota BZ4e/Subaru Solterra, Kia EV6, Hyundai Ionic 5, Nisan Ayria, etc. These will all have the tax incentives that are no longer available with Tesla, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    There are a number of more affordable EVs debuting this year...Toyota BZ4e/Subaru Solterra, Kia EV6, Hyundai Ionic 5, Nisan Ayria, etc. These will all have the tax incentives that are no longer available with Tesla, too.
    Yeah, removing the Tesla tax break really is pretty stupid, IMHO. If the goal is to promote purchasing electric cars to help the environment, why penalize purchasers of the by far most common brand of electric cars that people purchase. Oh, my bad, because their factories aren't unionized. Anyway, end of rant.

    I really feel that these tax incentives need to be permanent to promote the purchase of EVs. I got the tax break on my first Tesla. Didn't get it on my second one. I'll live, but I wonder how many people couldn't afford a Tesla without one, and bought an ICE car. How does that help society?

    I loved that KIA EV6 robot dog commercial during the Super Bowl. Really felt it was the best. The car looks interesting too. The new Mercedes EQS looks very impressive. I bet the interior is far nicer than the Tesla. But it also won't come cheap. The sweet spot is in the affordable SUV market. Tesla may corner that with the Model Y, but it will be very, very nice to have good competition in the market. Chevy promoting a car that doesn't exist in their Super Bowl commercial (the electric Silverado) and won't until at least 2024 was virtue signaling at its best.

    Volkswagen/Audi etc. will be huge players in this, and may someday be the World's leader in EV production. I wouldn't bet against them.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

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