[OP]
Contributor
What is a good resaw blade? I have been using a 3 tpi 1/2 inch blade a wood mizer I believe, but it dulls fast, it seems to me. Are the carbide tip blades the way to go?
Using a powermatic 14 inch with rizer. I know that this is not the best saw for resawing, but it's what I have.
Contributor
3/4 inch is my minimum width for re-sawing anything greater than 4 inches. I like my carbide tipped blades.
Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 02-16-2022 at 8:51 PM. Reason: typo
Best Regards, Maurice
Contributor
For that saw I would be looking at a 1/2" x 3 or 4 tpi bimetal blade like the Lenox Diemaster 2. Maybe it will tension a 3/4" blade. I use http://www.spectrumsupply.com/
Contributor
Personally I would think that you're about right with the blade you have for that kind of saw. I tried a Diemaster 2 once but it took a much wider kerf, so with marginal power you'll have a harder time getting through, I imagine.
[OP]
Contributor
It seems like when resawing a large blank,10 inch,the blades dull quickly, I use a wood slicer blade from Highland Woodworking for resawing kiln dried hardwood. That blade is amazing, but not too good for logs for very long.
I think I should be looking for a bigger chainsaw to cut the pith out of the center of big stuff ,less expensive than a bigger saw . Thanks
Contributor
Lenox actually has a 4tpi hook blade with a .025" thick band, only slightly thicker than a Wood Slicer. A bimetal blade will stay sharp considerably longer. Worth a try anyway.Originally Posted by Zachary Hoyt
Contributor
At first I tried a Wood Slicer, and then another popular brand that I don't recall the name of right now. Both of those cut great for a while, but not very long. Then I switched to Lennox bimetal diemaster. Much, much, much longer blade life. I would say the cut is not quite as smooth, but the wood slicer was a 3/4" and the Lennox is 1/2". So hard to compare. I'm sold on the Lennox bimetal. If you aren't cutting curves, and are mainly resawing, I'd get a 3/4". Just not sure your saw will tension that big of a blade.
Last edited by tom lucas; 02-17-2022 at 8:43 AM.
Moderator
I'd use a 3tpi not 4. Lower tooth count will be more efficient. More important to have a flat cut than a smooth cut here.
Contributor
Stumpy Nubs YouTube channel recently posted a video on the various types of bandsaw blades, their construction, durability, advantages, etc. It’s the best summary of this topic I’ve seen. Watch it so you can make an informed decision on what’s best for your situation.
IIRC, Stumpy uses a wide, carbide tipped, blade for ripping. However, that doesn’t mean you should, too. For ripping, he’s using a much larger saw than your 14” Powermatic. The goal of his video is to teach you how to select the right blade for a given task, using your saw. He’s not trying to sell a particular blade.
Member
Well you say resawing, are you cutting boards? My little saw, for cutting rounds, I have a Lennox bimetal diemaster blade, 1/2 inch and 3 tpi, and the thicker one, but don't know the numbers on it..... Cuts longer and straighter than any other blade. On my big saw, which cuts 16 high, I have a 1 1/4 Lennox bimetal blade with teeth about 3/4 inch apart. It is great for cutting slabs for bowls and platters. I am lucky to have a local bandsaw blade maker locally. When I first started, I asked about carbide tipped blades. His comment was that they are for cutting veneers. I did get one just to see, and it leaves a much cleaner surface, but like I was told, best for veneers. It didn't seem to last any longer than the bimetal blades, and the bimetal blades can be sharpened several times before they are toast. The tips on the carbide blade were so small, they could not be sharpened.
robo hippy
Contributor
Reed (or others), do you sharpen your own blades or have a shop do it? If the former, with what tools? Also, with the 1/2" blade, what do you consider the minimum turn radius when roughing green rounds? I've found the "nominal" cutting radius for blades is not the real world minimum, especially cutting thick green wood.
I've used a 3/8" wide kerf carbon steel blade up to now and am ready to give the bimetal a try based on recommendations from you and others. Was thinking the wider blade would be stouter and better able deal with little wobbles that sometimes happen if my chainsaw rough-out isn't dead flat on the bottom side. I have a 17" 2hp saw.
Best,
Dave
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks I will check out the site.
Member
I have it done by my saw sharpening service. The 3 tpi 1/2 inch blade and my big blade can be sharpened a number of times before they are worn out. I would want a needle file for the gullet. I have tried the 'spin the blade backwards, by hand, and keep one of the diamond hones on it while doing this. Never came close to what the saw shop could do.
I will have to check out the Stumpy Nubs video.
robo hippy
[OP]
Contributor
Do you know if they do send in orders? I have a few to sharpen. The local shop cannot sharpen bandsaw blades.
Contributor
Very few services find it profitable to sharpen bandsaw blades, probably because the ones they get in are thrashed and their cost is high relative to replacement. If you do find a good mail-in service I hope you will post it here.
I have sharpened quite a few blades using a Dremel with reasonable results, but it is tedious. Best to get a bimetal blade that doesn't need sharpening often.
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