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Thread: What bandsaw model for Guitar Building

  1. #1

    What bandsaw model for Guitar Building

    I figure that I will need a 14" bandsaw with a 6" riser block in order to have the resaw capacity needed for guitar luthier work. What are good economic models that fit this scenario? I know that Grizzly has this option. What about other brands? I do not want to spend more than $1100 on a new model. I do not want a model that is going to keep going out of adjustment and become a source of frustration before its time.

  2. #2
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    With the inflation of the last couple years, $1,100 may be a tough limit to stay within unless you buy used. When I bought my Rikon 10-326 is was $1,100, but I understand it's about $1,500 now. That said, I think it would be a good choice for you. It has 13" resaw capacity without a riser block and will take a 3/4" blade. I've done resawing up to about 8" and it has plenty of gas to get the job done.

    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  3. #3
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    Acoustic or Electric?
    I have an antique Craftsman 10' that takes care of everything but re-sawing. I also have a USA Delta 14'' with riser. $500 used. It is not a good re-saw machine. I re-saw with the Wood Mizer. We had a dedicated 24 inch Laguna with a power feed at the factory for re-sawing. Old Standard has a 37"
    Hibdon Hardwood, Old Standard Wood, eBay, LMI, and others make having a re-saw unnecessary for most small builders as well as many big builders.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  4. #4
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    Used Delta 14" with riser. Very capable saw, resaws to 6-8" without difficulty.

  5. #5
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    I had an 18" Jet that I bought used, and now I have an 18" Parks that I bought used, both from auctions. Each was well under $500. I switched to the Parks because it resaws to 12" vs 10" for the Jet. Someday I'd like to have a higher end bandsaw, maybe, but for now cheap is good enough for me.

  6. #6
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    I agree with Roger that the Delta is very capable. Bringing the 3/4 inch re-saw blade up to tension makes me feel like I am taking it right to the limit of its capacity. For guitar backs and sides I like the blade even tighter. I am looking for another 14 inch Delta, one of the old ones with the wider, cast iron wheels.
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 02-17-2022 at 6:26 AM. Reason: old is better
    Best Regards, Maurice

  7. #7
    While I resaw my own backs and sides... I would say think about how much saw you really need and be honest about expectations. I've got an older Rikon 14-325. It will resaw, and I've resawed a lot of backs and sides, but it is NOT the thing for precision resaw. I generally shoot for 1/4" slices to so I end up cleaning up to guitar plate thicknesses. The trouble there is that an S4S 4/4 board only gives me 3 slices. Getting greedy only ends up giving me headaches and unusable slices when there is taper or barrel.

    Personally, be honest with yourself about waste and cost of board feet. You can buy truly beautiful sets at reasonable prices, and they're already rough sanded to the right thickness range.

    That said. I would probably buy a Delta with a riser block that you can use for some resawing, necks, headblocks, and tail blocks, and save your money to buy a bigger, stouter resaw like a Laguna if you decide you have to have one.
    Last edited by John C Cox; 03-02-2022 at 3:19 PM.

  8. #8
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    The big Laguna with the power feed and roller fence will consistently yield 4 slices from a 1 inch board. There is a video somewhere...

    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 03-03-2022 at 8:14 AM. Reason: video
    Best Regards, Maurice

  9. #9
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    Get at least a 16"
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  10. #10
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    In addition to capacity, proper setup is equal or actually more important to successful resaw work. There are lots of how-to theories and threads on the net but the best tune-up that worked for me was a video entitled, "Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgras" (you will need to search on that famous video site). My modest 14" Grizzly cut perfectly straight and very smooth after setup demonstrated was enacted on my saw. No special springs, gizmos, or magic needed. A good saw blade helps a lot on the smooth part but setup is still the primary key to repeatable success.

  11. #11
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    The guidance for this application is really no different than for other uses...what you actually want to do matters. For cutting out solid-body electrics, it's mostly about throat depth. If one is going to be resawing fine, expensive material to create very thin acoustic body fronts and backs, then a hefty machine that has the stiffness and resaw ability to do that accurately and cleanly is where you want to be. Tops/bottoms for acoustics are very thin and you need to be able to get close with an even thickness so subsequent final processing with a drum sander goes smoothly. (pardon the expression) I honestly think that someone who is doing serious luthiery can benefit from both a large and small bandsaw, not unlike the benefit this has for more general woodworking.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
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    This old Delta (Dad's) is not old enough to have cast iron wheels. I do prefer the vintage machines. My 10 inch Craftsman works fine for an electric guitar. The shape has to be drawn on both sides, which is tricky.

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    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 03-06-2022 at 7:51 PM.
    Best Regards, Maurice

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