[OP]
Member
I have some money coming in and I have problem needing to be solved. I want to resaw some 7" wide rosewood for backs of guitars. Since my bandsaw is too small, I'm forced to do it by hand or take it to someone. What's the fun in that.
Which tool should I buy or build to get the best results with the least waste?
Contributor
Blackburn tools roubo frame saw kit. https://www.blackburntools.com/new-t...kit/index.html
I am forced to do all my resawing by hand and this is hands down the best way to do it. Get the BIGGEST kit you can handle (I got the 4x48” 2-1/3 TPI).
Pros:
- Cut straight so less waste.
- won’t bow in the middle like a hand saw can so less waste.
- cuts FAST FAST FAST. Did I say FAAAAST????
- Very easy on the body, burns few calories compared to a hand saw.
Cons:
- You have to build the frame. It’s easy, but it’s an extra project.
- There is a small learning curve, but it’s small.
- you need a heavy bench or it will push your bench around (at least the 2-1/3 TPI one can). Or add some weight to the shelf of your bench.
I used to use a 26” 4-1/2 TPI (I think) hand saw to resaw. I could never go back.
I consider a panel saw to be shorter than a hand saw so I would not consider it for a 7" wide hardwood board.
[OP]
Member
Thank you, that's what I'll get.
Member
I have the 36 inch and it is a real pleasure to use. Makes short work of resawing.
Contributor
How's the re-sawing with the smaller Blackburn frame saw compare vs. a continental style frame saw like the ones from Highland Woodworking?
I realize the one is purpose-built for re-sawing... but I'm curious how 'bad' the experience would be with something that is a little less of a one-trick pony.
Member
Chris,
Curious about your experience: How wide is the material that you would (comfortably) resaw?
[OP]
Member
I think I'm going to build a leg vise before the frame saw. I don't think my vise can handel the saw.
Contributor
Originally Posted by Monte Milanuk
I've been wondering this also. I'm drawn to highland woodworking's 700mm frame saw w turbocut blade but a lot of the blogs/youtubers are using blackburn style frame saws.
Member
I'm also also wondering this.
My hunch is that it depends on the blade you use. If you use a big, long, 2 1/2 TPI blade, you'll probably get very similar results -- it just won't be quite as easy to control the cut.
I've resawn with my home made bow saws before, but the coarsest blade that I had made for them was 8 TPI, so not great, and I wasn't resawing very wide pieces. I did prefer my bow saw to my panel saw for that, though -- both were about the same TPI and length, but the bow saw did offer some advantage as its blade was thinner (the thickness being around 0.5 to 0.6mm) and the handcut and set teeth (being home made) seem to offer a slightly smoother cut. It's subtle, but there.
It is more difficult to keep the saw at the right angle with the blade turned though. Takes practice.
EDIT: I do not think the turbocut blade is what you want though. That's a Japanese style crosscut blade -- very bad for resawing.
You want the lowest TPI rip cut blade you can find, preferably something with widely spaced, western style rip teeth. I'm curious if wider bandsaw blades might work, though it's not difficult to make your own from some appropriately widthed and thicknessed steel.
Last edited by Luke Dupont; 02-14-2022 at 10:31 PM.
Contributor
That was kind of the rub, as far as I could see. The 'coarsest' rip blade that Highland offers for that saw is a 700mm (~27") 5 tpi... so I'm not sure how much different the experience would be from the 4.5 tpi 26" hand saw that Chris mentioned. The blade would be thinner (depth) than the plate on a hand saw, but I have no idea how much that affects the experience. A sufficiently motivated person could probably find some bandsaw blade and make their own. I've heard bits and pieces here and there that the tooth geometry on a blade intended for an electron-powered bandsaw is not necessarily the right geometry for a meat-powered hand saw
Basically, I really 'want' (vs. 'need') one of those ECE frame saws, just because, and should probably just get one on the way so I can play with it and find out for myself
Member
That was kind of the rub, as far as I could see. The 'coarsest' rip blade that Highland offers for that saw is a 700mm (~27") 5 tpi... so I'm not sure how much different the experience would be from the 4.5 tpi 26" hand saw that Chris mentioned. The blade would be thinner (depth) than the plate on a hand saw, but I have no idea how much that affects the experience. A sufficiently motivated person could probably find some bandsaw blade and make their own. I've heard bits and pieces here and there that the tooth geometry on a blade intended for an electron-powered bandsaw is not necessarily the right geometry for a meat-powered hand saw
Basically, I really 'want' (vs. 'need') one of those ECE frame saws, just because, and should probably just get one on the way so I can play with it and find out for myself
Don't be afraid to make your own. It's pretty simple and straight forward to make frame saws, and even the blades aren't difficult to make (though, certainly a bit time consuming, especially if you want a finer TPI blade). I just made a blade myself, as a new dad with very little free time. 10 minutes here, 20 minutes there. Lots of filing and patience. But it's finished now and will last me a pretty long time
The frame is rather fun and simple to make. I have difficulty managing large, heavy frame saws, so I make mine a bit lighter and thinner, with thin mortise and tenon stretchers instead of a larger bridle or through mortise on the stretchers as is more common.
You can make them as fancy or as simple as you like, and customize them to your needs, and change out the blades to have pretty much any saw you like.
But, I'm still no expert in these saws. They take experience and practice to make accurate cuts. I built mine, in both instances, as a substitute for a good panel saw for quickly ripping and crosscutting boards to rough dimensions, and they work really well for that even in the hands of a novice.
I think I'll try using them exclusively for a while and see if I can't get good at making more accurate cuts as well.
Guest
I regular 26" rip saw will resaw 7" wide boards with no problem. If you have a saw tuned for ripping hardwoods, with a minimal set, then the kerf loss shouldn't be too dramatic between the hand saw and a frame saw.
99% chance you have what you need already without a bunch of Hooray, and Who Shot John to wade through.
Super important not to "press" the saw. Make sure it's sharp, let it move through the wood at its own pace. Forcing it will only make the process go more slowly.
Friend of the Creek
Tom Fidgen is a true hand tool purist in every sense of the word. This video shows resawing with a kerfing plane and frame saw (both hand made of course). Hard to tell, but I’d guess the blade is somewhere in the 4-5 tpi range. While some might suggest I need to get a life, I find watching him resaw to that level of perfection inspring.
https://youtu.be/OtmswWZ4Lvo
Guest
It's absolutely the proper tool, but it can be done with a regular handsaw and one isn't that disadvantaged. And once you start using a frame saw for resawing, you might just find yourself a convert to them, generally.
If the goal is to get the guitar built, then the resawing can be done without a bow saw. If the goal is to establish a guitar making operation, then it probably makes sense to stop and buy or build a frame saw.
This is also an area where power makes sense in the long run.
[OP]
Member
HA ha, the goal is to have fun in my workshop. I don't own a rip saw and my bandsaw is too small and I'm not upgrading it, I can cut the sides on it. The rosewood I have is very expensive and I don't want to waste any more than I have to.
Now Charles, you've thrown a monkey wrench in by telling me that I can do it with a regular saw. I counter that with this. Tired arm vs sawing with my body. I wish I had a good rip saw to try, I mean, I do want to get a workout when I'm building stuff which is part of the allure of hand tools for me. Just not sure how much effort I want to put in.
Before I do any of this, I am now planning to remove the face vise and replace it with a leg vise after experiencing some difficulty holding things while re-sawing some small things.
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