Advice milling a large batch of rough redwood into tongue and groove boards

[John Schiesser]

So I have an upcoming fence build and I am planning on buying rough sawn 8 foot 1x6 redwood rather the finished tongue and groove boards. I save about $13 a board and the first phase alone is 150 boards. So the cost saving are substantial. I have a decent planer and table saw but no jointer. My main concern is getting that first straight edge on boards. I don't want to do anything that requires me to reclamp or manually set a straight edge for each board. It would take forever. I am thinking possible put some sort of foot on the end of an 8 foot level and then push it with the board thru the table saw but not have them be attached. Just held against one another with a feather board.

Here is the order of operations I am planning on.

1) Plane board smooth on both sides.
2) Put straight edge on side 1
3) Put straight edge on side 2
4) Router groove in on side.
5) Route tongue on other side.

I have done something similar when I built the fence shown in the attached photo. I milled all the fence boards but they were shorter and no T&G. The posts and rails came already milled. I am installing a router lift in my table saw and putting an outfeed on.

Any advice would be appreciated.

IMG_2384.jpg

[Rod Sheridan]

With the money you’re saving take the boards to someone with a 4 sided molder.

Regards, Rod

[Kevin Jenness]

Rod has a good point. If you want to do it yourself there are a number of diy ripping jigs for the tablesaw. I used the one shown here in post #27 https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Feeders/page2 designed by Tage Frid before I had a sliding saw.

The second photo is a good reminder that excellent work can be produced with modest equipment. The most productive woodworking tool is between our ears.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Why T&G and not shiplap?

I might be thinking wrong, but, wouldn't shiplap eliminate one cutting operation since one edge is completely hidden?

[Brian Tymchak]

With the money you’re saving take the boards to someone with a 4 sided molder.

Regards, Rod

I don't have experience with a 4 sided molder. Will it mill straight edges and the t&g on rough lumber in the same pass?

[Bradley Gray]

If the picture you posted is what you plan to build why do you need T&G?

[Mel Fulks]

I don't have experience with a 4 sided molder. Will it mill straight edges and the t&g on rough lumber in the same pass?

It will if the set-up is done by someone competent. I’ve seen guys run a thousand feet , and still be tweaking the moulder on the last
couple of pieces.

[Richard Coers]

Fence boards seasonal move just like furniture stock. Fitting it up tightly with a tongue and groove will present some big issues when the wood swells in the rain. Also, I've found that fast growth redwood sapwood won't last more than 5 years in the weather. Nothing like the old growth trees from the past. By the way, all your concerns about machining time are why the machined stock is the price it is.

[John Schiesser]

With the money you’re saving take the boards to someone with a 4 sided molder. Regards, Rod

I wouldn't even know where to find someone capable of doing that but I appreciate the suggestion.

Rod has a good point. If you want to do it yourself there are a number of diy ripping jigs for the tablesaw. I used the one shown here in post #27 https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Feeders/page2 designed by Tage Frid before I had a sliding saw.

The second photo is a good reminder that excellent work can be produced with modest equipment. The most productive woodworking tool is between our ears.

This is good. I think I could incorporate this into my plan.

Why T&G and not shiplap?

I might be thinking wrong, but, wouldn't shiplap eliminate one cutting operation since one edge is completely hidden?

I don't think it would eliminate an operation because both sides would need to be milled still. The idea behind T&G is to eliminate warping of the boards.

If the picture you posted is what you plan to build why do you need T&G?

That was just a picture of fence I completed previously. Here is rough model of the fence I am building now.
IMG_9397 (2).jpg

[Mel Fulks]

Best way to run tongue and groove is on a shaper. Do not flip the boards , run top first . Then the bottom. I “climbcut “. Mark which side is
the face.

[John Schiesser]

Mel,
I could probably pick up a shaper off craigslist but I don't really have room for my shop. Am I not going to be able to efficiently do this with 3 hp router?

[John Schiesser]

Fence boards seasonal move just like furniture stock. Fitting it up tightly with a tongue and groove will present some big issues when the wood swells in the rain. Also, I've found that fast growth redwood sapwood won't last more than 5 years in the weather. Nothing like the old growth trees from the past. By the way, all your concerns about machining time are why the machined stock is the price it is.

Richard, you bring up a good point but the other reason I am going with the rough is that it is all heart wood. The premilled stuff is about 50% sap wood.

What do you suggest?

[Mel Fulks]

You could do it with router. Sorry, somehow I thought you were gonna use a shaper. For a red wood fence I would favor ship-lap ,not tongue
and groove . Red wood is brittle ,and after milling the stuff will move . Most will be to tight as the grooves will tend to close up some.

[Bill Dufour]

Save yourself some time and excess handling of the lumber. Mill tongues on both sides of half the boards and grooves on the other boards.
BILL D

[Bill Dufour]

I used a vee grove set from Grizzly on my shaper. Mark top side with chalk as you run them then match that side out on assembly so things line up well. Chalk can be washed off before stain.
Bill D