New SCM SC4E - blade change questions

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for your reply, Erik --

Tapping = less threads, so less effort?

No...it just cleans the threads out so you can remove and reinstall the bolts/screws easier. You're not changing the threading. Further, you want to be careful with those screws as they "bed" into the insert with their large heads and chamfer on the back. Losing them isn't something you want to do. Erik mentioned having extras and that's a decent idea if you can get the correct size and format, including the chamfer angle. I don't believe they are unique, but you're not going to find them at your local hardware store.

[Ned Otter]

got it, thx much Jim

[Mark e Kessler]

Nice work Mark. Its different on the slider i have the original is like the old metal rattle cans on cabinet saws. Flop around not straight etc. Saw came with some wood ones and ill make thickner ones out of 3/4" baltic. I figured i have to ad mounting points, even on my cabinet saws there are tabs there so you can put set screws in and raise stuff up and down. So make the insert so it sits low then raise it to flush with the set screws. Have to figure out how to attach tabs. What did you do inside for those mounting tabs?

Thanks Warren, I reverse engineered the existing design which were 3 blocks of plastic (the gray) I first worked out the kinks by 3d printing them (3 iterations the black parts) then had them made in Aluminum, the LED scoring lights complicated things. These bolt to the side of the cast so totally different but the k700 that I had was more similar as it attaches to the top, see last pic was made in BB.

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Here is the one from the k700, note that it also had to removed to change the blade. You actually could change it by completely lowering it but it was a pain removing the zci was easier. Like others said i just had extra screws (because you do drop them and they disappear, kinda like the whole sock thing) and a tee handle hex stuck to a magnet

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[Mick Simon]

^^ Exactly what I've done with mine. Rare earth magnets for the lock bar, wrench and t-handle allen. I've seen some videos showing keeping the wrenches in the trough between the two guide rails under the carriage. Mine has a UHMW "sweeper" designed to keep that area free of sawdust, so that doesn't work.
At first I wondered what the small trough cast into the table behind the blade was for. I use it for holding the throat plate screws when changing a blade so they don't get lost.