info on 2" Greenlee Chisel (new?) with 22 degree bevel angle?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I was given a 2" greenlee chisel.

The chisel has no handle, it came in some kind of "dip" coating that you peel off and I have seen on other tools. The top part, which did not have this coating was rusted so I removed the rust. I think that the chisel is new / unused / unsharpened.

The chisel is stamped "Rockford ILL USA" with GREENLEE in the middle.

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I removed the protective coating because a friend came over and said "we need to make a handle for that" (he has the ability to turn things, i do not) and he wanted to start by flattening the back so that I could sharpen the blade.

The back will require a lot of work to get flat (sadly).

I measured the bevel and I think that it is 22.5 degrees.

I expected an angle between 25 and 30 but this really looks like the untouched factory bevel. I now have two 2" chisels, so I will probably keep this one at the factory angle until it proves to be a problem.

I believe this to be an older example of the Greenlee (before they had green handled chisels that looked like Marpels; yeah, I have been trying to find information online, I do not know these things off the top of my head).

Thoughts or information on this chisel? Thoughts on keeping the angle at 22.5 degrees since I have another that I think is at 25 or 30 (I do not remember).

[Jason Buresh]

My guess is it is a paring chisel. Don't quote me, but I believe bevel angles on paring chisels are generally 20-22 degrees.

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I think it probably originally would have had a handle similar to the 750, such as this greenlee pictured above.

Over all a cool find!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have some 750s I can copy (for the handle). Any idea how they got the leather on there? I assume that it is simply glued on. Then again, not a lot of pounding on a paring chisel.

[Jason Buresh]

I have some 750s I can copy (for the handle). Any idea how they got the leather on there? I assume that it is simply glued on. Then again, not a lot of pounding on a paring chisel.

I have had success using just plain wood glue with leather to wood. I would rough up the leather and the end of the handle with some sandpaper for best adhesion

[Rafael Herrera]

There are many handle patterns to chose from. If you want to make this a paring chisel, try to find a suitable one for you. The leather caps of 750s, which are general purpose bench chisels, are there so they can be used with a mallet.

Do you have access to an original 750 handle? The leather cap is made up of two stacked rings.

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1" 750 original handle vs 2" 720 replacement handle

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Other handles, https://williammarplesandsons.com/chisels/

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[Andrew Pitonyak]

I inherited some old 750's and my friend Steve gave me one some years back. They are so old and worn, it is difficult to pull much information from just looking at them. At least one of them, the leather looks like a single piece so i assume it has taken significant abuse over the years.

I considered making handle by cutting it down (lots of facets) then deciding if I wanted to sand it smooth when when my friend Chris said "bring it over, we can turn a replacement handle".

Looks like the leather is actually a ring around wood. I never noticed that. I need to take a closer look at mine to see if I can tell.

Jason, thanks for the tip about wood glue. I have lots of wood glue.

Rafael, you always have great links, Lots of ideas.

I think that I will make it as close to a 750 as I can including the leather. I can pare with it and NOT hit the leather if I want, but, if I choose to make it "not a paring" chisel, will be nice to just have the leather there. I already have plenty of leather sitting around. My wife wants me to punch a hole in a belt so I can check to see what sizes of punches I have. Probably not one as large as I would like.

[Jim Koepke]

Nice find on the chisel Andrew.

The handle for my 2" chisel was made before having a lathe:

Chair Spindle Socket Chisel Handles.jpg

One spindle from an abandoned piece of furniture made two handles. The other chisel is a 3/8".

jtk

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Interesting, was it difficult to fit? That is my biggest concern. I have seen a couple of tricks to figure out what shape it should be, for example, using aluminum foil to fill the handle measuring the depth with a rod using clay to figure out the angle...

[Jim Koepke]

Interesting, was it difficult to fit? That is my biggest concern. I have seen a couple of tricks to figure out what shape it should be, for example, using aluminum foil to fill the handle measuring the depth with a rod using clay to figure out the angle...

No, if the handle moves laterally you have to determine if the bottom or the top of the tenon needs a bit trimming. Over time my turning has gotten to where it is easy to get close just by eyeballing. A 1/4" dowel helps to find the depth. Drill bits or other things around the shop can measure how big to make the end. Mine are always made to have a little room (1/8" - 1/4") at the bottom.

Trimming the tenon is easy with a chisel or a gouge. Twist it in the socket and trim off the spots darkened by the inside of the socket. When it gets close switch to a fine file and very lightly remove the darkened areas until the the tenon becomes evenly darkened all around. It should feel firm in the socket. Give it a whack with a mallet and it should stay in place.

Harry Strasil Jr (RIP) had a different way of gauging the socket to help cut the tenon > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?112339

jtk

[Mike Henderson]

Are you sure you measured that bevel angle correctly? It looks too "short" to be 22.5 degrees (from my experience with chisels). But it's hard to tell in a picture.

Mike

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Are you sure you measured that bevel angle correctly? It looks too "short" to be 22.5 degrees (from my experience with chisels). But it's hard to tell in a picture.

Mike

Very poor perspective in that shot.... This next picture was difficult for me to take and things moved a bit in the process, but, it shows the angle off the gauge that I used since I cannot fit this chisel into my gnoiometer that uses a laser to measure the angle (The beam reflects to show primary and secondary angles of blades).

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