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Thread: Flush trimming / pattern cutting on shaper with rabbeting block and bearing?

  1. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post
    I think I could shave with some of the carbide inserts I have.

    As we are on the topic of carbide inserts and spiral heads.. does anyone with small amana head have issues. I've talked to a few other people with them. Some work great, some leave tracks.
    Attachment 473380
    Attachment 473381
    Yes, as I understand it, inserts can get much sharper than brazed carbide. Since they don't have to worry about brazing it onto a cutter body, they can choose a composition that is finer grained and capable of attaining a keener edge. HSS can get sharper by all accounts, but it won't stay that way for too long.

    Jared, looks like the overlap between some of your cutters may not be quite enough.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
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    Jared I have a knockoff segmented head that was in a pile of tooling that was included with a shaper I purchased. It is 4'' diameter and 4'' tall ,looks like a Byrd but the inside is hollowed out. It leaves those lines like in your pictures as well. One of those things that does the job well enough that I will probably just keep on using it.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    Jared, I have a Oertli 80 mm spiral head. It leaves a couple very small lines that sand out easily with a wipe of the orbital. Hard to see in the picture.
    BDF5D455-335F-4555-9E61-A91F0F449A27.jpeg
    have you turned the inserts on yours yet? I’ve made one turn on mine.

    These are my go to on pattern shaping. The big Tersa makes the best cut, probably because of the mass and diameter. The spiral does a little better than the Z4 rebate going uphill on the grain. I think a larger diameter spiral head would do better also. This one is nice for small radius work.
    C1927772-8718-452D-AA64-7B2FAA7E1F7C.jpg

  4. #49
    I have three different Byrd heads for three different machines and the one for the shaper has the same issue as yours even with fresh cutters. I would assume they intended to build them all the same, but a very minor difference in tolerances at the factory led to one being imperfectly made, thus leaving the tracks. A pain to deal with on endgrain but ok elsewhere. The Byrd isn't MAN rated and I'm using it for pattern shaping so will be replacing it with a Tersa style block like Joe's.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post
    I think I could shave with some of the carbide inserts I have.

    As we are on the topic of carbide inserts and spiral heads.. does anyone with small amana head have issues. I've talked to a few other people with them. Some work great, some leave tracks.
    Attachment 473380
    Attachment 473381

  5. #50
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Northern Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Joe,

    Pardon my inexperience - what’s an adjustable dead collar?
    First thing that I saw in my IG feed this morning. Reminded me of this thread.
    https://www.instagram.com/reel/CaGxp...dium=copy_link

  6. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post
    First thing that I saw in my IG feed this morning. Reminded me of this thread.
    https://www.instagram.com/reel/CaGxp...dium=copy_link
    Very nice display of the collar and looks like a good feed to follow. Thanks for the link.
    Still waters run deep.

  7. #52
    Just wanted to update this thread with some real world feedback after I’ve had some real seat time with this cutterhead as a flush cutting setup. It is fantastic.

    Im building 10 chairs currently and have been using it for template cutting of the back legs, arched crest/bottom rails on the back, as well as tapers on the front legs. Height of cut ranges from ~ 1 5/8” - 3 1/4” so far and typically taking between 1/16-1/8” off when flushing up. I can cut uphill/against the grain with practically no concern for tear out, which is handy on these chair rails in particular that I sawed from 8/4 stock.

    I would like to try my hand at bent lam or steam bending sometime for these components in the future but I had enough new challenges already stacked up with this build that I stuck with sawing from solid wood with a template. It has been a good exercise for me to become familiar with it on my shaper.

    Some ppl may scream about this but I have the bearing on the bottom (and all 4” of the cutterhead height sticking up) because of the way I could understand to build my templates and safe stock holding with stops, toggle clamps, screws, dominos, etc.

    I have shared some videos over the last few weeks on my Instagram page which I will link to below in case anyone is interested in seeing that, but will also share a few still photos of some of the various setups/results.

    https://www.instagram.com/stillwater_woodworks/?hl=en

    This is an aluminum 4”x4” helical cutter with matching OD bearing from CGG Schmidt. I bought it from Neil at MT Tool, who is fantastic to deal with, btw. For reference, this setup with bearing was around $425 shipped. I looked at Amana, Whitehill, and Rangate. Amana didn’t have the size I wanted. Whitehill and Rangate were both nearly double the price and I couldn’t remember exact sizes. This 4” tall cutterhead + 1/2” tall bearing fits nicely on my spindle which has 5 1/2” below the nut. They do make a 5” tall version (and maybe a shorter one as well?)

    Im sure the Whitehill and Rangate versions are just as good, if not better, but this one was a nice balance of size and price. It’s been getting a really solid workout lately and has more than paid for itself. Cut quality is so nice that it will just need some finish sanding and is similar to a quality surface from my jointer or planer (or better.)

    Hope this helps someone.
    Still waters run deep.

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