I'll add to this thread if for no other reason than to offer different materials and methods.

Built my own kitchen and vanities 15-ish years ago. Bought 3/4" and 1/2" shop-grade birch ply (unfinished) and 1/2" and 1/4" baltic birch. All cabinet boxes are 3/4" birch ply with solids sides and bottom, 4" strips on top and rabbeted in 1/2" ply backs. I cut attached toe-kicks in the boxes. I built face frames out of cherry, they are really all that ever gets seen. I did my drawers out of the 1/2" BB ply with 1/4" dadoed bottoms, glued and pocket-hole-screwed. Pocket holes are in the front facing and rear facing sides of the drawer so they don't get seen either. Finished everything with a coat of shellac (Bullseye Sealcoat) and two sprayed on coats of water-based poly.

Lessons learned (aka what I would have done differently):
- In the future I will build simple boxes and build a separate detached toekick and get it dead-level before I install boxes on top of it.
- Would not recommend the WB poly finish, it's not durable enough.
- If I were going to paint these, I would have used poplar or soft maple face frames.
- Would have spent the extra money to buy prefinished plywood.
- Find a way to make dead-accurate square and perpendicular cuts on sheet goods. I am still trying to figure this out.
- Pocket screws are great for the cabinet boxes but I probably would have done the drawers differently. Maybe solid wood and box joints or dovetails? For my own purposes they are solid and strong and work great - but they're kind of ugly. Would be great for shop cabinets I guess. I would also use self-closing slides. I bought the cheapest stuff I could get at the time because that was what the budget allowed. I spent under $8000 on my entire kitchen and that included soapstone countertops.