Hand sanding; what do you do?

[Michael Drew]

I have been surfing old threads, looking for a silver bullet. Didn't find one, hence this post/question.

I like to feel whatever it is I'm fixing to finish. I always grab a sheet of 8x11 paper (or whatever they are), usually 220 grit, rip it into three strips of equal width, then I take one and fold it twice over itself to give it some strength. I then go over whatever it is I am making with this piece of paper between a couple fingers or finger and thumb, and I can feel imperfections verse see them. I usually have a few of these folded up and torn pieces of paper on my bench, so I can grab one and use it without much thought. This past weekend I was thinking there has to be some newfangled device I could use, other than the sanding sponges I have (and do not like all that much). I've tried the blocks that have those spring loaded keeper things, but the paper never gets tight enough and I just end up ripping paper.

I can't be the only one here that likes to hand sand, so I figured I'd ask the dumb question.... What do you do? What do you use? And if you have to plug it in, or hook a hose up to it, that's cheating and not allowed.....

[Dennis Jarchow]

I use folded paper for some things but for flat hand sanding I use the Preppin Weapon. It holds the paper well, is comfortable on my hand, and also works great for wet sanding.

[Robert Engel]

I like the foam back papers called Rhynogrip.

[Jim Becker]

Well, I'm certainly not going to say that I "enjoy" hand sanding (or even powered sanding) but it's a necessary thing. Hand sanding for me is pretty limited to "tidying up", such as breaking edges and getting into places that just can't be done any other way. It's usually finer abrasive, too, such as that last 180 or 220 (or sometimes higher) operation. Sometimes it's just with the paper and sometimes a block is involved. Whatever's correct for the need of the moment.

For the guitar bodies I've made, "hand sanding" also means the leveling and working up though the steps with MicroMesh, as high as 120000 before polishing with compounds.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I use 220 grit Indasa paper and cut each sheet into 12 roughly equal pieces with a pair of large old scissors that I keep in the shop for that kind of job. I use 400 grit in the finishing process, cut the same way. I'm making stringed instruments so I'm working on small pieces of wood, often with a curve in one or more directions.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I second Preppin Weapon and Indasa paper. I think the preppin pad is near perfectly flat.

If you choose to actually hand sand, if you "flat" sand in the direction that your fingers line up, you can actually sand 3 grooves in your work if you sand too much. I found that by sanding through the veneer on some cheap "cabinet grade ply" from the local box store. I think I was trying to sand out an imperfection by hand and really screwed things up buy making that set of 3 lines.......

[Greg Quenneville]

I have a velcro sanding block that a 6” disc wraps around perfectly. I tend to use half worn discs from the sander for those little clean-up and spot finishing chores. Got in on Amazon

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Being a person of modest means. I fold old paper from the 1/4 sheet orbital in half, smear one side with Titebond, press together until dry, and sand away with the ends that were under the clamp of the orbital.

I do the same with the paper from my various hand sanders. Here are a few, the faces of all of them have been lapped.

IMG_0329.jpg
I use these 1/4 rounds with Velcro and Abranet for rub-out.
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[Stan Calow]

A felt sanding block

[Paul F Franklin]

I have a bunch of preppin weapons, with different grits in each. I use them when their size is suitable. Then I have a bunch of MDF blocks with rubberized cork glued to them. I use self adhesive paper on those; the blocks are sized to the width of the roll of sandpaper, so it is quick and easy to change paper when needed. The rubberized cork has just the right amount of give (IMO) and is very durable; you can change paper dozens of times with no damage to the cork. And although the cork has a little give, if you use a light hand, the block will give very flat results due to the flatness of the MDF. They are fast to make; I take a piece of MDF about a foot square, glue on the cork, and when dry, cut them to size and apply the sandpaper. I keep a bunch of them with different grits so it's not necessary to change paper to progress through sanding stages. The blocks let you sand right into corners; neither the edge of the cork or the MDF block will mar the side that is not being sanded.

[Kevin Jenness]

I mostly use sheet paper for gluing to mdf for "hard block" sanding (levelling), for breaking edges and occasionally in a 1/4 sheet orbital sander. For hand finish sanding I generally use 5" velcro backed discs on a hook/loop backed cork block or (softer) a h&l rubber disc. Paul's system is a good one as well.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

We used 4 inch floor sanding rolls at the factory. It's fantastic. glueing sections of hardware store 9x11's back to back is very helpful for me.

[glenn bradley]

Most used is the Preppin' Weapon, next is foam and cork blocks. In addition I have a mutlitudeof "sanding blocks" to draw from for different detail things.

[Thomas McCurnin]

3M makes a rubber sanding block which holds a quarter sheet and is one third of the price of the Preppin Weapon, its like $5 at your local hardware store.

[glenn bradley]

The 3M blocks are good but small. I have a few setup with stepped grits and they get plenty of use. For larger surfaces I prefer the larger registration surface of the longer block. William Ng also has a wood block method he uses made from scrap. Essentially free except for the cork , my favorite price.