Should I buy a mini-bus? Am I out of my mind?

[Zachary Hoyt]

Rick Potter, thanks for the tip. I have never had a credit card so I doubt I can apply for the first 3 but the preload card should be doable, if they consider me enough of a business to get it, and would provide the cheaper shipping. I looked it up and I am only 45 miles from the nearest Lowes so I am well within their regular delivery area. I'll have to ask next time I'm there if I can get that card.

Jim Becker, the local lumberyard is only 6 miles away, and offers free delivery within 15 miles. So far I've only done cash and carry there as I was in a hurry to get the things I needed, but in the spring it will be easier to plan further ahead. I'm not planning to buy most of what I need there since they were about 20% higher on average than Lowes or HD for framing lumber and CDX plywood, but when I needed things fast it was nice to have them right there.

[Keith Outten]

Should you have to work on the top of the gas tank you might consider cutting a square patch in the floor just over top of the tank. This would make it easy to repair without have to crawl underneath the bus and work overhead. After the repair is done cover the hole with a piece of sheet metal and use a few sheet metal screws.

[Zachary Hoyt]

That's a great idea. I'd just have to think of a way to cut the floor without making sparks or accidentally cutting into the top of the tank.

[Kev Williams]

Should you have to work on the top of the gas tank you might consider cutting a square patch in the floor just over top of the tank. This would make it easy to repair without have to crawl underneath the bus and work overhead. After the repair is done cover the hole with a piece of sheet metal and use a few sheet metal screws.

That's a great idea. I'd just have to think of a way to cut the floor without making sparks or accidentally cutting into the top of the tank.

Since that's a 'specialty' vehicle, whoever built it as a bus may have already made access to the fuel pump-- if you're lucky!

[Zachary Hoyt]

I can but hope. It would certainly be nice.

[Bill Dufour]

2000 ford ranger I had to replace the fuel pump. I did not quite get the pump mount in correct. It would spill a little fuel if I filled it all the way. I suppose splash water may get into the tank the same way as well. I took off the bed to fix it a few years later. I bought the big wrench the second time instead of hammer and punch to tighten it down.
They sell a small piece of shaped bed floor to cover a hole you cut to do the pump. I suppose you could cut one out at the wrecking yard with a cordless angle grinder and a cutoff disk. For some reason they wanted me to drill holes under the seat to remove the tank straps. Instead I dropped them to the ground.
1985 truck one of the nylon? vent lines from engine to gas tank melted from exhaust heat causing tank to suck air loudly when gas cap was opened.
Bill D

[Keith Outten]

That's a great idea. I'd just have to think of a way to cut the floor without making sparks or accidentally cutting into the top of the tank.

You may be able to slide a piece of sheet metal or thin plywood onto the top of the tank so you could cut the floor with an angle grinder. I have also been able in the past to drill a large hole and use an electric shear to cut metal flooring which does not not produce sparks. Check the distance between the floor and the tank top before you decide the best technique that you feel comfortable using.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thanks, those are great ideas. I am pretty experienced at cutting with an angle grinder, and the plywood sounds smart. I've never used a shear, but have heard that they're very handy. I was also pondering cutting with a sawzall and a short metal blade, if there's enough clearance between the tank top and the floor. I was able to cut a 275 gallon oil tank in half with one last fall in only 5 minutes or so, so I have become a believer in them for sheet metal cuts where the angle grinder blade is more likely to get pinched or wander off the line.

[Bill Dufour]

How about an oscillating tool? like a Fein. Maybe a diamond grit blade to get through the undercoating. Wet tile saw would douse the sparks
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

Jim Becker, the local lumberyard is only 6 miles away, and offers free delivery within 15 miles. So far I've only done cash and carry there as I was in a hurry to get the things I needed, but in the spring it will be easier to plan further ahead. I'm not planning to buy most of what I need there since they were about 20% higher on average than Lowes or HD for framing lumber and CDX plywood, but when I needed things fast it was nice to have them right there.

Perhaps you can set yourself up as a cash contractor account with them and get contractor pricing to save a bit...I did that years ago with one of the local, family run building products/home center businesses. Their prices are indeed higher than the 'borg, but for "real" construction projects, the quality is also several notches higher, too. You may also be able to negotiate a package for your building that further cuts the material costs. You have time so figure out all the angles. "Good material" makes things go together easier and with less waste, IMHO.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Bill Dufour, I've never used an oscillating multi tool, but have heard of them. This may be a job that makes a good reason to buy another tool, I suppose.

Jim Becker, it's an interesting idea. I don't think I would be able to get a discount from this place. They seem a bit more on the hard-nosed end of things, as one doubtless has to be to survive in business in a small town which has had some economic troubles.

[Keith Outten]

This is the metal cutting shear I was recommending. Not this particular brand exactly, you should shop to find the brand you feel that is best for your situation. This tool will cut thin sheet metal straight or curved like butter, quick and easy. For the floor you would start by drilling a large hole , possibly in each corner, and the shear will do the rest. I bought a cheap model because I rarely have the need but it is a great tool to have in your arsenal. If you run into a seam that is too thick for the shear use a half hack saw for the thicker area.

I do a lot of metal work, mostly making sign hangers. Welding, bending, twisting and cutting are often weekly tasks and my options are variable including a plasma torch and bolt cutters with three foot long handles

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thank you for the link, that looks like a handy thing. It sounds like you are fully equipped for all of that kind of work. I have a set of those 36" bolt cutters but one tooth is chipped so they don't work too well anymore. I got them for $10 at an auction when I was about 16.

I do occasional steel work when required, but it's generally been repairing farm machinery so it's been 1/8 to 1/2" thick material, working with an angle grinder and an old Lincoln AC stick welder. Does a shear work well for metal roofing or do the corrugations cause a problem? That's the other thing I'd be likely to use one for. I can cut 4" C channel with a thin cut off wheel in the angle grinder and get it pretty clean and square, but when I try to cut metal roofing with the angle grinder I tend to abrade the disc away too fast to be efficient, and I don't get as clean of a cut. I work with brass round and rectangle bar weekly or so, but it's much easier to cut and shape.

[Alex Zeller]

I know someone who did something similar with an old bus. He ended up putting a bed that folded down if needed so he could register it as an RV. RVs seem to have their own classification and the insurance was cheap. As for cutting a hole in the floor to get to the gas leak, I wouldn't do anything that could cause a spark.

[Bill Dufour]

The little one hand reciprocating saws have half the stroke length of a full size one. So a little less exposed ends of the blade.
No reason not to have a garden hose fog nozzle on top of the tank while cutting the floor
Bill D