Contributor
"The Harvey 110S-36P (4hp) is $2,579 plus $359 shipping. Shipping Feb. 30. I likely won’t see that until the end of March This price is good for just a few more hours, I believe. Trying now to find out."
Might want to have them double check the shipping date as well. February doesn't get a 30th even in Leap Years.
Good thread, good info present on multiple fronts!!
earl
Member
Jim I really like your shop. Looks like a space that really gets used. Hope whichever way you go on the saw choice that you end up happy with your choice. If used is any consideration a Unisaw, General 350 ,650 or a Powermatic 66 would all be great saws as well.
[OP]
Contributor
Ha! Typo. Should have said Feb. 20!Originally Posted by Earl McLain
Member
PM66 and Harvey are not comparable imo.
Older USA PM66 trunnions
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Newer USA PM66 trunnions
powermatic04.jpg
Member
No, that dealer is a moron. Now one feature on the Sawstop ICS is you can disable the safety feature temporarily when needed. If you are cutting wet wood say or wood that might have a staple or nail that might trigger the cartridge.
Contributor
I have an original G1023 I think, bought it in 1996 or 1997. It came with an absolute crap JetLock knockoff fence which didn't even get mounted. I already had a Mule Cab fence on a Craftsman contractor saw, it got moved to the new saw. Crap fence got sold with Craftsman saw. My 1023 has not been heavily used but has been fine, the only thing I've had to repair/replace is a button on the starter.
Re the problem with getting logged out. Sawmill Creek disconnects after a certain period of inactivity, it seems like around 30 minutes. Creating a new post is inactivity as far as the timer goes. If I'm creating a lengthy post, I create it in a word processor and save as text, not the default file format. Then log into Sawmill Creek and copy/paste the text and insert pictures. I find this procedure best for lengthy posts on most forums, not just Sawmill Creek. SWMBO is fairly active online and she was proficient at 'losing' posts she was creating. I finally got her to use the create offline then copy/paste procedure. She doesn't 'lose' posts anymore.
Last edited by Curt Harms; 01-26-2022 at 10:10 AM. Reason: spelling
Member
IMHO, trunions are non-issue. As long as they’re cabinet mounted then good to go. Laguna trunions are aluminum, and as far as I know, they hold up fine. I think we are getting a bit nit-picky here.
We are doing woodworking with these machines, not running demolition derby’s.
Member
Chris I would not agree with that. The smoothest running saws that I have ever used have massive cast iron trunnions. (General 350) and close second Grizzly 1023. If the overall strength and mass of trunnions was not important then we could all be happy with Delta contrator saws. Bigger equals heavier and means more vibration dampening ,all good things in a cabinet saw.
Contributor
I don't have any extra brakes for mine - I bought a dado brake and have been using the stock brake since I bought it. Maybe 500 BF has made it through that saw since I bought it with no issues or false trips.
If I was a production shop I'd consider extras on hand so I'm not losing money after a trip waiting on a new brake, but as a hobbyist, if I trip the brake, I'm probably done working for the day and can stop at woodcraft for a new one.
A lot of people who use Forrest blades will send them back after a trip and for a small fee Forrest will sharpen, flatten and inspect the blades. Other quality blades I'm sure could have similar work done, but I don't know the details as I have Forrest blades in my shop. Similar to the brake, if I trip it, I'll deal with the blade afterwards since I'm not losing money not having a spare.
Contributor
As Myles said, if your using a SS and you trip a brake, your done working until you can get another one. It doesn't sound like a pain until it happens. Then your happy you have it. I keep an extra brake and blade. If I send my primary blade off for sharpening, I use the backup. I still get the long term use of the blades.
I went through a few blades and brakes on my SS PCS. Its not just fingers that can blow your brake, but very wet wood or types of metal. I wouldn't call it sensitive and it has a test mode. If you blow a blade on a finger, you'll be happy you blew the blade and kept the finger. The saftey features are worth the cost, compare those savings with one trip to the ER or the long term consequences.
Contributor
I do not believe Harvey saws are made in China, but I could be mistaken.... When I was looking at table saws a few weeks ago (prior to committing to a Hammer slider), my research lead me to SS ICS or Harvey 4hp saws. Both with sliding tables and their respective over-blade guards. Both machines appeared to have similar build quality, similarly positive reviews, and both had good customer support. The PM66 however, not sure what's going on with PowerMatic, but the company might be going through some kind of internal shuffle? There is a fair amount of disgruntled 'new' owners. One thing the Harvey offers that is unique, and appealing to me (maybe not others), is their Tin coating. I spend a fair amount of time fixing rust spots on my cast iron tables. It isn't exactly cheap though, so it may not be worth the price adder.
[OP]
Contributor
Well, the Harvey 4hp went up $300 overnight. After thinking for awhile, I've decided I want a 36" rather than 32" like the G-1023. 52" is too big for my space. The GO941 is a 36, and pretty much the same saw as the 651. I think the fence on the 1023 is better, and the dust shroud should keep the cabinet cleaner, plus the trunnion assembly appears beefier. The dust port on the 941 is on the left side as opposed to the rear. Not great for my setup, as I have to go 180 deg. to the left.
You guys have me thinking now about the SawStop. I believe there is a 3hp-36" machine at Woodcraft 60 miles away. It looks like the saw ships horizontal (says the manual), so I might be able to get it into my Explorer and save shipping (though I have to get it out somehow at the other end). The fence looks decent. How is dust collection? Port is in the rear, so that is good, but no dust shroud? That's good, or bad, depending on your point of view. I'm looking over some videos, will keep you posted.
Curt Harms, I usually write posts in text edit, copy and paste, but I didn't on that lengthy post. This forum is identical to the WoodenBoat Forum, and that's where I learned that trick, after losing posts that I spent an hour doing. Plus, I keep all the texts in a folder for reference. Of course the one time I don't...
Thanks again everyone for posting!
Contributor
It's not bad, but I couldn't speak compared to the Harvey. I don't look inside the case and the blade guard dust collection works well enough. The thicker the wood, the worse the collection is. When cutting 6/4 wood on a sled, I have to leave the shop to let the air clear out or wear a mask.
Low suction generally on the blade guard collector. Many people adjust the connection to the 4" for better air flow. The nicer floating dust collection has better reviews. I didn't get it because of how it interferes with the optional router table attachment.
Moderator
Jim, folks have reported success with calling Harvey on the phone relative to getting a better price.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
This thread needs more Sawstop photos!
ics01.jpg
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