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Thread: How to drill angled holes

  1. #1
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    How to drill angled holes

    Here is a picture of my current key holder on the left and a new one I made on the right. Instead of screws in the new one I would like to insert dowels at an angle to hold the keys. How do I:
    1-drill the angled hole?
    2-make sure the hole does not go all the way through the back?
    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dennis

  2. #2
    Hi Dennis,

    It's a nice looking project you have going. I think if your pegs aren't perfectly strait and angled perfectly, you may not be happy with the results.

    You can use a drill guide such as:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescra...1368/300534153

    or

    https://www.rockler.com/rockler-portable-drill-guide

    Each drill guide has stops so you can set to the right depth before drilling and get consistent results. You can put a piece of painters tap on the drill bit at the right depth.
    Last edited by derek labian; 01-22-2022 at 9:45 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis thompson View Post
    Here is a picture of my current key holder on the left and a new one I made on the right. Instead of screws in the new one I would like to insert dowels at an angle to hold the keys. How do I:
    1-drill the angled hole?
    2-make sure the hole does not go all the way through the back?
    Thanks
    Sounds like an excuse to buy a drill press. At least, that's how I rationalize new tool purchases.

  4. #4
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    Ideally, you'd use a DP with a fixture that holds the workpiece at the correct angle. You can do the same with a hand-held drill by creating a fixture that has a block that is thick enough to guide the drill bit consistently at the correct angle and distance from the edge.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    However you do it - handheld or drill press - tilt the piece, not the drill. Go slow when the bit enters so it doesn't skid.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  6. #6
    Pickup one of the cheap pocket hole jigs and just use a regular twist drill.


  7. #7
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    A method I've used is to drill holes straight through a piece of scrap, space the same distance you want the holes for the dowels in your project. Then rip a bevel on the piece of scrap to get the desired angle for the dowels. Bond the scrap to the face of your project piece with double sided tape. Use the holes in the scrap to drill your dowel holes in the project. This method will virtually eliminate any tear out.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #8
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    Why do you care if the holes goes through the back?
    Bill D

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Why do you care if the holes goes through the back?
    Bill D
    Because it sits on a short wall that shows both front and back
    Dennis

  10. #10
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    So I used the jig Lee suggested .I got the jig made, first hole went pretty well and it was all downhill from there. I completely messed up drilling the next hole, so badly that I will have to remake the whole keyholder😢 fortunately when I was cutting the boards, by some miracle I cut enough boards to make another one😄. Back to the shop to glue up some boards.
    Dennis

  11. #11
    wood jig wont take much lateral force (twist drill). brad point or forstner may be best. Was why I mentioned the kreg jig though your dowel diameter may not be a match

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis thompson View Post
    So I used the jig Lee suggested .I got the jig made, first hole went pretty well and it was all downhill from there. I completely messed up drilling the next hole, so badly that I will have to remake the whole keyholder�� fortunately when I was cutting the boards, by some miracle I cut enough boards to make another one��. Back to the shop to glue up some boards.
    I should have mentioned that I use hard wood for these types of jigs and multiple holes prevent wandering of the brad point bits. You need to start the drilling at a slow speed until the bit is fully engage in the work piece.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Varley View Post
    Sounds like an excuse to buy a drill press. At least, that's how I rationalize new tool purchases.
    This is one application a radial arm drill press would work well.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    Hi Dennis,

    It's a nice looking project you have going. I think if your pegs aren't perfectly strait and angled perfectly, you may not be happy with the results.

    You can use a drill guide such as:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescra...1368/300534153

    or

    https://www.rockler.com/rockler-portable-drill-guide

    Each drill guide has stops so you can set to the right depth before drilling and get consistent results. You can put a piece of painters tap on the drill bit at the right depth.
    I agree with this 100%.
    I picked up a Drill Mate a few months ago to drill out a broken leg from a chair. I ended up not fixing the chair but - I put the Drill Mate back in it's package so the parts don't grow little legs and run away.
    This is one of those tools you seldom need - but when you do, you thank your lucky stars you have it - - sort of like an impact driver you use to break free frozen screws/bolts (same type of "Thank God I have this - type pf tool)
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  15. #15
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    I would use a jig and start the holes with a endmill or routerbit in. the drill press. Once the flat part is machined the drill will not tend to walk off.
    Bill D.
    PS I use spiral endmills in 1/4 and 1/2 diameter for router bits. Cheaper then a router bit and better made then many

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