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Thread: Planer Knife Protrusion/Stickout

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    So Cal
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    3,737
    I will add to this thread. I set my knives approx 1/32 out instead of the 1/16 showing in the pic.
    I also grind the bevel at 42 because the head has a 38 degree hook . That leaves 10 for clearance.
    If I had a knife grinder I would stick them further as mentioned up thread.
    Good Luck
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Aj

  2. #17
    I know you know high speed steel.

    I measure to the tip of the knife as that is what is cutting. ive had a dial on enough heads to see some have a dip on the head as you approach the knife opening. I zero on the head then as rotating sometimes see a dip maybe .004 as im close to the opening.

    What is your knife projection from the head being zero to the tip of the knife? I figured I pushed it low enough at .050 as i set up now, at some point there will not be enough projection, im sure im still fine as never any issues and it cuts cleaner than when i started high and worked down. If you have a few minutes at some point will you check that number.

    and

    now thinking what about Tersa and all the spiral stuff projections over the head. Do they all have the same feed rate capability or what if not?
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 01-19-2022 at 11:07 PM.

  3. I'd second the recommendation that the OP spend some time with the Bob Vaughan video on knife setting. It goes through a cutterhead diagram that will answer a lot of the questions that have been asked, and it explains a lot about planer setup that you'll need to know to get the rest of the machine dialed in.

    Skip the knife setting jig and get an inexpensive dial indicator with a magnetic base.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    624
    I probably just got very lucky but here's my only experience. I bought a Delta X5 15" planer that was rusted all over. This was probably around 2010. I disassembled it and cleaned it up. I put it back together and set the rollers and chipbreakers as close as I could with shop made blocks and a cheap dial indicator. I set the knives after I honed them by sight alone. I set the bottom of the bevel about 1/32" above the cutterhead and set it as parallel as I could. I figured that it would work okay, but once I got a good dial indicator, I'd set it up right. I ran some boards through it and was very happy with the surface quality. I measured the thickness at both sides and was within a few thousandths.

    Well, that was the last time I touched it. Now, I have a Dewalt 735 that I do most of my finish sanding with but I use the bigger planer for rough planing. It really needs new knives as some of the nicks are fairly deep. I am not sure it is worth setting the knives perfectly if I can eyeball them to this level of quality. I am going to swap them out with new ones soon. I guess I will find out if my first results were repeatable.

    Dan

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
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    3,737
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    I know you know high speed steel.

    I measure to the tip of the knife as that is what is cutting. ive had a dial on enough heads to see some have a dip on the head as you approach the knife opening. I zero on the head then as rotating sometimes see a dip maybe .004 as im close to the opening.

    What is your knife projection from the head being zero to the tip of the knife? I figured I pushed it low enough at .050 as i set up now, at some point there will not be enough projection, im sure im still fine as never any issues and it cuts cleaner than when i started high and worked down. If you have a few minutes at some point will you check that number.

    and

    now thinking what about Tersa and all the spiral stuff projections over the head. Do they all have the same feed rate capability or what if not?
    Here’s a look how my knives sit right now. If I move them down 1/32 I’d right at 1/16 th projection.
    The cutting circle is 5inches for Oliver. What’s your new machine just curious
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Aj

  6. #21
    Do you know what the tip is over the head? I know im asking you a different way than you measure. Machine is a Wadkin BAJ. Just a lump right now busy with other things. I did email Tersa and had an issue with some emails. They have just rewired from the block to my office with Cat 5 so hope its okay now. This is the Tersa Info.

    Capturedfgdfff.JPG
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 01-24-2022 at 4:43 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
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    I see what you looking at. As my knives sit the they are 44 thousands above the body of the head converted its 1.1 mm.
    My manual says to set the face of the knife out 1/16 from the lip of the gibs or breaker. I bet that would put them out 1 mm from the head.
    I just remembered something I was going to share. I bought another set of t1 from Amana 12x1.25x1/8 they came perfectly in balance each weighed the same and same thickness. Somebody’s got their head screwed back on straight.
    The grind on the back is a little rough compared to American National knifes blades. I paid less then 30$ a knife so I’m happy.
    I have 3 sets of t1 and one set of m2
    Good Luck Warren
    Aj

  8. #23

    Planer knives

    I’ve noticed with T-1 and REAL M2 ,that when the knives are all exactly the same length, they are balanced . With the
    cheap steel ,after balancing , some knives are over 1/8th inch different.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,737
    Yes that’s true Mel. I wore down a set of Amana t1 made in Germany one thing I noticed as they got smaller and smaller they developed lots of warping.
    Thats when I decided to start looking closely at news stock. Even new sets had a crown to them but what really confused me was one knife was much heavier. It turned out to be thicker I don’t remember how much because I sent the set back.
    I went back and forth until I found a set acceptable.
    Aj

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