How am I supposed to fix a loose handle on a japanese chisel ? It keeps fallaing apart, so annoying. I tried hitting the chisel with a hammer on a piece of scrap wood with a lot of force but the handle eventually gets loose quickly.
How am I supposed to fix a loose handle on a japanese chisel ? It keeps fallaing apart, so annoying. I tried hitting the chisel with a hammer on a piece of scrap wood with a lot of force but the handle eventually gets loose quickly.
A couple questions,
Is it a standard tapered socket connection ?
Is the wood dry?
Is the handle bottoming out in the connection? or should it?
A photo might help
Purists, cover your ears
You can always add a bit of epoxy on the connection, just enough to keep the handle from coming loose. It can always be removed when necessary with a little heat.
i stopped paying for the membership, dont think I can post a pic. The wood is dry, I've had it for 2 years at least. The connection is like any standard japanese chisels, it's got a metal tang that fits into the handle.
Yes, it might be very helpful.A photo might help
Charles, as a member, my understanding is you can post images you just won't be able to see them.
Also as Edward asks, it will also help to know what kind of connection there is between the chisel and handle.
Hours could be spent creating a presentation on how to accurately fit a socket chisel handle only to find out yours has a tanged fitting.
One of my round tuit projects is to write a "how to" on fitting a socket chisel handle. Though as a member you would not be able to see the images.
Many folks have had this problem with new chisels in the past. A few of my chisels had this problem with changes in the weather. After a bit of thought and work, my efforts paid off. None of my socket chisels have slipped off its handle for a few years now.
One of the problems with new modern chisels is the insides of the socket are machined smooth.
With older chisels there is oxidation inside the socket. This helps to mark any high spots on the handle's tapered end. Then the spots darkened when twisting the taper inside the handle can be given a light application with a file. This will eventually produce an even darkening of the taper when twisted in the socket. That is when it should fit without falling off.
So now a few minutes of my time have been spent trying to help and it could be all wrong due to your chisel having a tang going into the handle. In that case there are other remedies. Very few of my tanged chisels have had their handles replaced due to my not knowing much about the process.
jtk
Last edited by Jim Koepke; 01-17-2022 at 4:28 PM.
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Being a Japanese chisel I’d assume it has the typical tang and socket connection common to oire nomi.
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
This is why I asked the questions.
There are several different ways to attach a handle as Jim laid out. Some have the appearance of being a full socket but are a tanged version made to look like a socketed style.
Example, https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entri...orking-chisels
Tightening a chisel with a tang and ferrule is much different than a socket chisel.
Here is a traditional method for preparing a handle for the tang and tapered ferrule connection.
https://covingtonandsons.com/2019/05...anese-chisels/
Charles, here is a dissembled Japanese oire nomi ..
I assume that it is the tang that is slipping out. If so, either add a shim to thicken and tighten, or use epoxy, which is gap filling.
A third option is to make a new handle. I have done many of these …
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRes...aRebuild2.html
You should become a member. It is the best value you will get for $6. It makes it possible for you to both give and receive.
Regards from Perth
Derek