Tapered Reamers

[chuck van dyck]

Hello creekers

I 'm looking to get a tapered reamer. I'm about 2 seconds away from pulling the trigger on the LV guy that goes in an electric drill. My only hesitation is the 12.8* taper that it cuts. It seems like a lot of the chair makers I follow write about a 6* taper, which seems much more elegant. Anyone have experience using the LV Standard Taper Reamer and a reamer like the one Tim Manney or Elia Bizzari offer? The latter seem like beautiful tools one would never be sad to own, but they might be a down the road deal. The 12.8* included angle on the LV seems a little dramatic. Am I missing something here?

Once I've got my hands on a reamer, I plan to make the tapered tenon cutter with an old block plane.

Thank for lookin

[Jason Buresh]

This may be helpful to you. The angle of the reamer depends more on the wood you are working and the type of leg you are using. As far as a 6 degree beingng more elegant, no one is going to see a taper once the chair is assembled. The taper of the tenon doesn't necessarily dictate the taper of a leg

IMG_20220116_184903080.jpg

[John Keeton]

Detailed specs of the reamer.

[Tom M King]

Those come in different diameters too. I've never had one of those in my hands, but have some "car reamers" for enlarging holes in metal that aren't straight tapers. They have curved cutting edges that end straight when you get up to the finishing diameter. I don't know if these are the same, but those car reamers cut in the opposite direction than you think they would when first looking at them.

[John C Cox]

I think I would start with "How is the reamer measured?"

Some list the cutting edge angle per-side, others list the total included angle. Thus a 6-degree per side reamer cuts a 12-degree included angle... Maybe they're both the same thing. Or maybe they're not.

I have not used metal cutting reamers on chairs, but I have used them on guitar pegs and I hate them. I've had trouble with egg shaped holes and a ton of chatter when running metal cutting reamers into wood, even by hand. By far, I have had the best luck with single flute wood cutting reamers.

My experience has been that wood reamers are usually designed with the correct cutting angle geometry and body shape to cut smooth in wood... Likewise machinists metal cutting reamers are designed for cutting metal...

[Tom M King]

John, Did you try going the other way with the metal cutting reamer?

[Jason Lester]

I just bought the LV one, but haven't used it yet. Christopher Schwarz uses it for everything in his new Stick Chair Book.

[john jesseph]

It makes no difference in how the chair looks.

For a given depth of cut, the wider angle will make less progress in depth per revolution. Six degree taper reamer is pretty aggressive, so you can overshoot if you aren’t careful.

I feel like the six degree taper locks tighter in dry fit. Zero difference after glue up.

I have two Emhoff reamers, an 11 and an 8 degree.

I own some Lee Valley reamers, but haven’t used them.

Keep in mind that Schwarz is like you and me, same journey. Just a guy trying to figure it out and make stuff.

[chuck van dyck]

This may be helpful to you. The angle of the reamer depends more on the wood you are working and the type of leg you are using. As far as a 6 degree beingng more elegant, no one is going to see a taper once the chair is assembled. The taper of the tenon doesn't necessarily dictate the taper of a leg

IMG_20220116_184903080.jpg

Ah, thats super helpful. Is that from the stick chair book? I’d like to play with some versions of his staked chair.

I make a decent amount of 3 legged stools, usually in white oak. My seats are typically around 1 1/2”. I like the look of a larger diameter wedged tenon in the seat. The 6* reamer would obv give me the larger diameter look I prefer. I need to do some math on to figure out what diameter I would end up with using the LV cutter. I typically turn the taper on my legs to around 1 1/8” before adding a little detail on the shoulder of a cylindrical 1” tenon.

Well I just ordered the LV, but I’ll be keeping my eyes peeled for a 6* reamer.

[Derek Cohen]

Just to be pedantic, speaking from memory, I do not recall anyone using a 6 degree reamer. 7- or 8 degrees yes, but not 6 degrees.

I made 7 degree reamer, and also own the LV 12 degree version. They both work. Six-of-one-and-half-a-dozen-of-the-other. 7 degrees locks tighter, but runs the risk of adding more pressure to the joint and causing a split. 12 degrees adds less pressure, but does not grip initially as tightly. Note that this is relative for each, and that both work. I am sure if you ask a proponent of one why they do that particular angle, they will say that that is what they learned, and stuck with it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[chuck van dyck]

It makes no difference in how the chair looks.
.

I think it does though. The diameter of the mortise on the seat top. Might seem silly to care but I just do. I’ll try some with tbe LV guy and maybe I’ll care less.


While I am looking for a super strong joint, perhaps I’m willing to sacrifice a little for the aesthetic I like. Still gonna be a super strong joint.

[Scott Winners]

I think it does though. The diameter of the mortise on the seat top. Might seem silly to care but I just do. I’ll try some with the LV guy and maybe I’ll care less.


While I am looking for a super strong joint, perhaps I’m willing to sacrifice a little for the aesthetic I like. Still gonna be a super strong joint.

I have never before considered this. I am very much a form follows function sort of individual. But you are right, the size of the circle of the leg poking through the seat does make a difference in the look of the finished item.

[John Keeton]

Tom, I have not personally used the reamer that I posted, but I do know it is used in Windsor chair classes at John C. Campbell and I personally know the instructor. I have seen the class chairs in progress and it seems to work well.

Couple of comments about reamer angles - my Elia Bizzarri reamer is 6* included angle as is the ball joint reamer. The closer one gets to a zero degree (dowel) the greater the glue surface and the less “end grain” created by the taper. That would argue for a 6* over a 12* reamer/tenon.

The depth a Windsor chair leg is “seated” in the mortise is critical. I like using the hand reamer as I can sneak up on the depth one turn at a time.

[Tom M King]

Those metal reamers like the ball joint reamer you showed also come in "hand" models with a T-handle. I see no good reason to use anything other than what's proven to work for centuries though. For a while, I was looking for a metal reamer that also had a drill bit on the end, so that process could be done in one step.

[Tom M King]

Elia is selling blades to make your own: https://handtoolwoodworking.com/reamers/