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Thread: Tapered Reamers

  1. #1
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    Tapered Reamers

    Hello creekers

    I 'm looking to get a tapered reamer. I'm about 2 seconds away from pulling the trigger on the LV guy that goes in an electric drill. My only hesitation is the 12.8* taper that it cuts. It seems like a lot of the chair makers I follow write about a 6* taper, which seems much more elegant. Anyone have experience using the LV Standard Taper Reamer and a reamer like the one Tim Manney or Elia Bizzari offer? The latter seem like beautiful tools one would never be sad to own, but they might be a down the road deal. The 12.8* included angle on the LV seems a little dramatic. Am I missing something here?

    Once I've got my hands on a reamer, I plan to make the tapered tenon cutter with an old block plane.

    Thank for lookin
    Last edited by chuck van dyck; 01-16-2022 at 7:53 PM.

  2. #2
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    This may be helpful to you. The angle of the reamer depends more on the wood you are working and the type of leg you are using. As far as a 6 degree beingng more elegant, no one is going to see a taper once the chair is assembled. The taper of the tenon doesn't necessarily dictate the taper of a leg

    IMG_20220116_184903080.jpg
    Always put the crappy side against the wall

  3. #3
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    I just bought the LV one, but haven't used it yet. Christopher Schwarz uses it for everything in his new Stick Chair Book.

  4. #4

    Angles

    It makes no difference in how the chair looks.

    For a given depth of cut, the wider angle will make less progress in depth per revolution. Six degree taper reamer is pretty aggressive, so you can overshoot if you arenít careful.

    I feel like the six degree taper locks tighter in dry fit. Zero difference after glue up.

    I have two Emhoff reamers, an 11 and an 8 degree.

    I own some Lee Valley reamers, but havenít used them.

    Keep in mind that Schwarz is like you and me, same journey. Just a guy trying to figure it out and make stuff.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Buresh View Post
    This may be helpful to you. The angle of the reamer depends more on the wood you are working and the type of leg you are using. As far as a 6 degree beingng more elegant, no one is going to see a taper once the chair is assembled. The taper of the tenon doesn't necessarily dictate the taper of a leg

    IMG_20220116_184903080.jpg
    Ah, thats super helpful. Is that from the stick chair book? Iíd like to play with some versions of his staked chair.

    I make a decent amount of 3 legged stools, usually in white oak. My seats are typically around 1 1/2Ē. I like the look of a larger diameter wedged tenon in the seat. The 6* reamer would obv give me the larger diameter look I prefer. I need to do some math on to figure out what diameter I would end up with using the LV cutter. I typically turn the taper on my legs to around 1 1/8Ē before adding a little detail on the shoulder of a cylindrical 1Ē tenon.

    Well I just ordered the LV, but Iíll be keeping my eyes peeled for a 6* reamer.

  6. #6
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    Just to be pedantic, speaking from memory, I do not recall anyone using a 6 degree reamer. 7- or 8 degrees yes, but not 6 degrees.

    I made 7 degree reamer, and also own the LV 12 degree version. They both work. Six-of-one-and-half-a-dozen-of-the-other. 7 degrees locks tighter, but runs the risk of adding more pressure to the joint and causing a split. 12 degrees adds less pressure, but does not grip initially as tightly. Note that this is relative for each, and that both work. I am sure if you ask a proponent of one why they do that particular angle, they will say that that is what they learned, and stuck with it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by john jesseph View Post
    It makes no difference in how the chair looks.
    .

    I think it does though. The diameter of the mortise on the seat top. Might seem silly to care but I just do. Iíll try some with tbe LV guy and maybe Iíll care less.


    While I am looking for a super strong joint, perhaps Iím willing to sacrifice a little for the aesthetic I like. Still gonna be a super strong joint.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck van dyck View Post
    Hello creekers

    I 'm looking to get a tapered reamer. I'm about 2 seconds away from pulling the trigger on the LV guy that goes in an electric drill. My only hesitation is the 12.8* taper that it cuts. It seems like a lot of the chair makers I follow write about a 6* taper, which seems much more elegant. Anyone have experience using the LV Standard Taper Reamer and a reamer like the one Tim Manney or Elia Bizzari offer? The latter seem like beautiful tools one would never be sad to own, but they might be a down the road deal. The 12.8* included angle on the LV seems a little dramatic. Am I missing something here?

    Once I've got my hands on a reamer, I plan to make the tapered tenon cutter with an old block plane.

    Thank for lookin
    One of the advantages for me of the 12 degree reamer is that itís paired with an LV tenon cutter.

  9. #9
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    Yes, that is the stick chair book. It is a good read. It makes chair making very approachable. He focuses less on fancy tools and techniques and more on getting a chair built.
    Always put the crappy side against the wall

  10. #10
    Also not to be pedantic, but Tim Manney makes a reamer endorsed by Pete Galbert that is indeed six degrees.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by john jesseph View Post
    Also not to be pedantic, but Tim Manney makes a reamer endorsed by Pete Galbert that is indeed six degrees.
    Elia bizzarri has one pretty much identical at 6 degrees also.
    Always put the crappy side against the wall

  12. #12
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    I own the Lee Valley twelvish degree set, and I have a lathe for making big fat round tenons; but I don't own a six degree set.

    For the work I have done, the 12 degree taper works just fine. Small tables, saw benches, foot stools, stool to sit on. Things that always have all four feet on the ground.

    I have not yet built a back chair, a stool with a back on it. Nor have I yet leaned back in a chair I haven't built yet. When I do build a stick chair, I am going to lean back in it like the redneck I am. If a 6 degree taper set would work better for that someone please speak up so I can get shopping.

    I find the LV tapered reamer is a good tool for the price. I don't use mine in my 3/8 chuck drill because the reamer can be over heated too easily. I can overheat the reamer with my smaller 1/4 chuck drill, but i have to work at it. When it makes whispy shavings that curl up on themselves, it is sharp. When in makes dust flakes, it needs to be sharpened. I use a safe edge auger bit file to keep my reamer sharp.

    Also, the matching tenon cutter I bought during the staff shortages of 2020 came in with the blade or iron on the tenon cutter about 3/4 of one mm out of alignment. To check, line the two up so you don't have honed edge on honed edge and slip the reamer into the tenon cutter nice and slow. If they match, you are done. If they don't, slide the reamer out, loosen the bolts on the iron in the tenon cutter, you got this. Just take your time and don't give yourself a sharpening headache for later. As a team they work a lot better when they are in alignment with each other.

    I did not, and will not, complain to Lee Valley about the iron being 4 monkeys hairs out of perfect alignment. Every time I sharpen the tenon cutter iron it has to be lined up again anyway. I would not mind knowing what the price of the reamer would be if it were made from a more expensive steel that could handle more heat, but it would probably be more money than I want to spend so I haven't asked.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck van dyck View Post
    I think it does though. The diameter of the mortise on the seat top. Might seem silly to care but I just do. I’ll try some with the LV guy and maybe I’ll care less.


    While I am looking for a super strong joint, perhaps I’m willing to sacrifice a little for the aesthetic I like. Still gonna be a super strong joint.
    I have never before considered this. I am very much a form follows function sort of individual. But you are right, the size of the circle of the leg poking through the seat does make a difference in the look of the finished item.

  14. #14
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    So...where do I send this to? I do not build chairs, so have no use for this..
    Reamer #3.JPG
    3/8" to 1-1/2", by the L.L.Lord Co. of Meadville,PA. A No.3 reamer..
    Reamer, length.JPG
    6" overall length. Shipping is on me. I'll clean it up and flat rate box it up, Tuesday...just need an address.
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    So...where do I send this to? I do not build chairs, so have no use for this..
    Reamer #3.JPG
    3/8" to 1-1/2", by the L.L.Lord Co. of Meadville,PA. A No.3 reamer..
    Reamer, length.JPG
    6" overall length. Shipping is on me. I'll clean it up and flat rate box it up, Tuesday...just need an address.
    Steven. What a very kind offer! I would be quite happy to chuck that up in my yankee brace. PM coming. Woot, this will be fun tool to have in the kit!
    I know nothing about the L.L.Lord Co. but look forward to digging in there as well.

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