Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 31

Thread: Anyone Using Titebond Original for Shop Sawn Veneer?

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648

    Anyone Using Titebond Original for Shop Sawn Veneer?

    I have used buckets and buckets of Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue to veneer my 1/16 - 1/8" shop sawn veneer onto Baltic birch, MDF, etc. It was easy to get, didn't go bad for a long time, and was reasonably priced. Well, no more. After not being able to find it for several months on Amazon, etc., I contacted DAP and was told it was discontinued several years ago. I swear I bought some a year ago, certainly within the last 2 years. Regardless, I need a new glue for veneering.

    I have used Unibond 800 in the past. It has some advantages of a longer open time and less clamping pressure over PRG, and the price is reasonable. It's shelf life is barely a year, however. Not a deal breaker, however, and I know it works. My other obvious option is epoxy. I know it works but it has some serious drawbacks mostly related to cleanup, but also that it wicks through any pore to the show side very easily. There's also liquid hide glue, I suppose, but I have never seriously considered it because of the water solubility issue. And there's also Gorilla Glue. It's another product that works but, again, it's a pain to deal with as far as cleanup.

    Which brings me to Titebond Original. Its properties look reasonably good for creep resistance. So, is anyone using TB Original with shop sawn veneer? Maybe stated somewhat better: Has anyone been using TB Original for several years with shop sawn veneer with no failures?

    Looking forward to your input. Thanks.

    John

  2. #2
    Original is my default glue but I cant speak directly to veneer though we'ved used it on everything including veneered parts but Im not a veneer expert. I follow a prop building channel on youtube (culver props) and I believe she is going through the same issue with DAP Weldwood having been her default for decades and the last couple videos she's trying out an alternate, I cant remember which. There must have been a warehouse full of that material being bled down because a lot of people have been using it far more recently than several years ago.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    weaverville, ca
    Posts
    348
    the op said that unibond glue lasts about a year - i keep the bottle of unibond in the freezer between pours - i've not really tracked the dates but doing that helps it last more than year.
    jc
    jerry

  4. #4
    We use it all the time with no issues. I would use it exclusively, but sometimes the short open times are an issue.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,254
    Blog Entries
    7
    Yes, for years now I’ve used either TB original or TB II. No complaints.

    Just looked at a piece that had gotten direct sunlight by a window for at least 5 years, still tight.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 01-15-2022 at 10:44 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    1,621
    TB II for years, but primarily on small projects. No issues.
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Location
    Southwest WI
    Posts
    296
    I use the titebond cold press veneer glue. It has worked well for me. I haven't really had any bleed through problems, Clean up is easy, a decent open time, no mixing 2 parts together. It has been a little harder to find in the gallon size since the supply chain issues.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    For me, the drawback with Titebond for veneer is the water in it. I'm concerned about warping the panel. I use epoxy for both sliced veneer and sawn veneer. I use West Systems 105 epoxy with 205 or 206 hardener depending on the season. In addition to lack of water, this epoxy has a nice long open time, so you have plenty of time to get the panel into the bag without worrying that the glue is going to set up before you get it clamped up.

  9. #9
    I prefer Titebond Extend over original for veneer as it has a more rigid glueline. I also use epoxy and Titebond 2 at times. I did use Titebond original on 1/16" veneer on a number of projects with no known problems except for delamination from a neglected major water spill, which I was able to relay using a hot iron.

    I like Unibond 800 except for the shelf life as it has the rigidity of ppr glue, lower water content, variable cure time and optional blocker to prevent bleedthrough. I would favor it over Titebond for any spiteful veneer like crotches or burls. There were some reports of staining on sliced veneers some years back, perhaps due to insufficiently thorough mixing, but I have never experienced it. Best results seem to come from mixing with a drill paddle, letting rest and remixing.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Kevin, you are right, the strength after 150F overnight shows almost no loss in strength for Extend compared to less than 50% for Original, but that's still 3X what it is for Cold Press glue. After a poor experience with Better bond, I wouldn't trust either of those products with shop sawn veneer.

    I think it's down to Extend, Unibond 800, polyurethane, or epoxy. Cost and ease of use favors Extend.

    John

  11. #11
    I've use plain old white glue (Elmer's white glue) for a lot of veneer (commercial veneer) with no problems over many years. I've also used Titebond original with no problems. The advantage/disadvantage of white glue is that if it comes through the veneer, you can wash it off with water and not have a glue mark under your finish.

    The disadvantage is that if the piece got wet - really wet - the veneer could come unglued. But you'd almost have to have the piece caught in a flood to have that happen. I suppose that since Titebond original is not waterproof, you could have the same problem.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    NE OH
    Posts
    2,615
    What about Unibond One? I have no experience with it, so am asking out of curiosity.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,660
    I use Titebond Original to glue shop sawn veneers to the outside of a cylinder, when a customer wants a veneered banjo rim. I don't have them on hand once they're done, but I imagine if the veneers were coming loose the customers would have let me know. I also use it for small pieces of shop sawn veneer for peghead overlays, and it works fine there too. I have not made large flat veneered panels.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    LI, NY
    Posts
    206
    What about Cascamite plastic resin glue? sold on amazon? Never used it but I wonder if it is the same? 26.00 for 8oz., mix 2 parts to 1 part water.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Quote Originally Posted by joe maday View Post
    What about Cascamite plastic resin glue? sold on amazon? Never used it but I wonder if it is the same? 26.00 for 8oz., mix 2 parts to 1 part water.
    I'm sure it works well, Joe, but the price is ridiculous.

    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •