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Thread: woodspliter/jump starter

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Ford has used a nice remote starter switch for decades. usually mounted on the inner fender. Run main battery positive to the switch then out of switch to motor. Simple low power push button switch from power input to the coil terminal and go.
    Bill D

    https://www.amazon.com/JDMSPEED-Star...a-738174861328
    If the starter has a solenoid it wouldn't be necessary only a momentary switch.

  2. #17
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    From his description I thought the battery went straight to the motor with no switching or coil. Full amps through the little jump box switch?
    My Gravely tractor uses what looks like a old foot operated dimmer switch for the start switch. Push it in with your foot to start. let go and motor stops.
    Bill D

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    From his description I thought the battery went straight to the motor with no switching or coil. Full amps through the little jump box switch?
    My Gravely tractor uses what looks like a old foot operated dimmer switch for the start switch. Push it in with your foot to start. let go and motor stops.
    Bill D
    Bill, you are correct. No solenoid, no switch, just using the switch on the jump box. Current jump box not strong enough to start it. Splitter sits outside and this morning it's 9 degrees F. I don't start well either, better after second cup of coffee.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Fritz View Post
    Bill, you are correct. No solenoid, no switch, just using the switch on the jump box. Current jump box not strong enough to start it. Splitter sits outside and this morning it's 9 degrees F. I don't start well either, better after second cup of coffee.
    Then you just need a switch like this in line. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ferguson-TO20_Starter-Switch-Manual_181679M1.html
    My advice before was if the starter had a solenoid. This is as simple as it gets. You might be able to pick one up at Farm and Fleet or TSC also. It will handle the amperage involved. No Ford solenoid needed. Mount it and run a short cable to the starter and a cable connected to your battery or jump pack. Maybe both this morning. lol

  5. #20
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  6. #21
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    That would be perfect.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronald Blue View Post
    That would be perfect.
    That is exactly what my gravely uses. I wish it was farther away from the chain drive starter pulley and any other moving parts. It did throw the chain once when starting. Not fun to see the chain whipping around a few inches from my foot.
    Bill D

  8. #23
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    Jump starter question part two: I have a wood splitter with a Briggs and Stratton engine on it that has a starter added. There is no solenoid, no switch, just the starter with one pole. When I hook up this jump starter (https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...ompressor.html) with the positive (red) on the starter pole and the negative (black) to the frame of the splitter and turn the switch on the starter engages and turns the engine over. Sadly it doesn't have enough power to actually start the motor, esp. now in below zero weather. When I hook up this starter pack: (https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...p-starter.html) exactly the same way and turn it on nothing happens. Why is that?

  9. #24
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    When Gravely first offered the option of an electric starter they had another option that was a wood battery box. It took 120 D-cell batteries.
    Not sure on the date but the first Gravely was designed to rototill victory gardens to help out doughboys in WW1.
    Bill D

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Fritz View Post
    Jump starter question part two: I have a wood splitter with a Briggs and Stratton engine on it that has a starter added. There is no solenoid, no switch, just the starter with one pole. When I hook up this jump starter (https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...ompressor.html) with the positive (red) on the starter pole and the negative (black) to the frame of the splitter and turn the switch on the starter engages and turns the engine over. Sadly it doesn't have enough power to actually start the motor, esp. now in below zero weather. When I hook up this starter pack: (https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...p-starter.html) exactly the same way and turn it on nothing happens. Why is that?

    If memory serves me correct, the LI battery jumpers have to operate in tandem with an existing battery. This means you would have to have both jumper box, and LI jumper connected at the same time. Personally, I would buy the cheapest regular lead acid battery, keep it on a Battery Tender or Battery Minder in the garage. Mount it on a hand cart for ease of transportation. In our market, Walmart sells a "One Year Battery" for around $60 + core charge. You might ask around your friends, as most likely someone has an old battery in their shop, which might take a charge, or could be used for return core.
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 01-16-2022 at 8:30 PM.

  11. #26
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    Those jump starters just have a little battery inside like used for a barbie car. Very limited amps. A motorcycle battery is bigger. They need a real battery to supply the amps. the barbie battery just ups the voltage enough to get the starter solenoid to pull in. you need a real battery. Buy one with a handle for easy carrying. Or get a battery box for a boat with a handle.
    Bill D

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Those jump starters just have a little battery inside like used for a barbie car. Very limited amps. A motorcycle battery is bigger. They need a real battery to supply the amps. the barbie battery just ups the voltage enough to get the starter solenoid to pull in. you need a real battery. Buy one with a handle for easy carrying. Or get a battery box for a boat with a handle.
    Bill D
    There are jump packs that put out real amperage but they aren't cheap. We used them extensively. 12/24 volt and weigh a ton. Well 40 or 50 lbs. Even then though they are a "booster" and if the battery is dead or very discharged they won't be sufficient. Bruce's suggestion is probably the best suggestion. Although I would mount it and charge as needed. It should have many starts in it before charging is needed.

  13. #28
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    Actually we're returning the Noco today. Both the black and the red clamps had chips out of them. The plastic was thin and was proud of the metal parts so it was easily damaged. It may be great inside a car but when used in the woods I have my doubts. I ended up getting this one: https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...p-starter.html Took it out of the box and hooked it up to see if it would put out a charge with the switch on and it actually started the unit. Yes, it's heavy and bulky but it sure will get the job done. Guess I'm a person that doesn't appreciate "smart" devices. They seem to be smarter than me. Thanks for the information, I learned a lot.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Fritz View Post
    Actually we're returning the Noco today. Both the black and the red clamps had chips out of them. The plastic was thin and was proud of the metal parts so it was easily damaged. It may be great inside a car but when used in the woods I have my doubts. I ended up getting this one: https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...p-starter.html Took it out of the box and hooked it up to see if it would put out a charge with the switch on and it actually started the unit. Yes, it's heavy and bulky but it sure will get the job done. Guess I'm a person that doesn't appreciate "smart" devices. They seem to be smarter than me. Thanks for the information, I learned a lot.
    Sounds like you are in business then and that's the most important thing. Cutting/splitting wood warms you twice. Once when you cut/split it and once when you burn it.

  15. #30
    Was in Walmart, and they now stock starter solenoids for lawn tractors. About $14.

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