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Thread: Ideas on how to make a "drum"/cylinder table base?

  1. #1

    Ideas on how to make a "drum"/cylinder table base?

    Looking for some ideas on how to construct a ~23-26" diameter drum table base (see photo) for a 48"D top made from 8/4 maple.


    Was thinking some sort of inner structure with 3/4" ply discs or circles for the shape, then wrapped in a thin substrate with hardwood veneer over it. Or kerf cut ply to wrap the drum? How would one go about it with all hardwood?


    This is a first for me so any and all insight and wisdom are appreciated. Thanks!

    IMG_8609.jpg

  2. #2
    You can buy commercially made plywood cylinders. For solid wood, glue up staves and turn on a lathe.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Maybe 'cooper' the boards (each board vertical and edges joined on a slight angle). Then clean up with a hand plane.

    Else I have seen some nifty router jigs by musical drum makers, but that seems wieldy for this size.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    You can buy a veneered cylinder. Anderson International is one source. This page is for red oak veneer on plywood. http://www.aitwood.com/StoreFront.As...n.%20Red%20Oak But you'd better call them and talk. They've been sold recently, so their stock might be sketchy.

    To make the cylinder in solid wood, you'd cooper the staves. Unless you have a humongous lathe, you smooth the polygon with a hand plane.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Columbia MO and Howard County MO
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    I have seen two ply veneer glued to a sonotube concrete form that was fairly convincing. There are several types of flexible plywood and bending birch plywood. Flexwood paper backed veneer is a cool product. I have made some round lazy Susan cabinets with staves, Masonite and Formica. C&C Drum Shell Co. in Gladstone MO makes their own cylinders. For it to truly be solid wood Jamie and Carl have the right idea with staves. I use the "Staves and Segments" page at Wood Magazine when I make drums.
    https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...s-and-segments

    DSCN1684.jpg
    https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/intermediate/staves-and-segments?utm_source=emailshare&utm_medium=email&ut m_campaign=email-share-article&utm_content=20220114
    https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/intermediate/staves-and-segments?utm_source=emailshare&utm_medium=email&ut m_campaign=email-share-article&utm_content=20220a
    https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/intermediate/staves-and-segments?utm_source=emailshare&utm_medium=email&ut m_campaign=email-share-article&utm_content=20220a
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 01-14-2022 at 8:46 AM. Reason: image & link

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Might be a bit old fashioned but a log cut to the right length, bark removed, dried very slowly, deep holes drilled in the ends help. Gives you the weight for table stability so a smaller diameter would work and give you more leg room.
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Columbia MO and Howard County MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Fretwell View Post
    Might be a bit old fashioned but a log cut to the right length, bark removed, dried very slowly, deep holes drilled in the ends help. Gives you the weight for table stability so a smaller diameter would work and give you more leg room.
    I like that look in some settings and hope to make something from logs someday. I have had no luck getting a log section to dry without crackling badly. I have not read up on how its done. I suspect it is best to use something like Lodge Pole Pine? We have Red Cedar (juniper) available, those logs do not split and crack much. They do not look as nice as what I have seen out West and up North.

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