New storage box for chisels

[William Fretwell]

The first box, fully fitted, comes over as more refined. The hinged lid is the issue when in use. When you get to 7 chisels the lid would become very awkward, hence the change in design.

The circular magnets add a very modern look to the box, the floating chisel ends less refined. It is a lovely box make no mistake and that is part of the problem! If it was a pure utility simple boxwood construction with magnets it would be ‘acceptably’ modern .

Like you Derek I have a hard time building utility, imagining I’m going to live long enough to enjoy the luxury or at least someone else will! Unlike you, my luxury is usually limited to veneer!

It is true a washer below the magnet acts as a keeper and increases the holding power and life of the magnet. My appearance suggestion is to mix epoxy with ‘bronze’ powder, it’s really copper powder. The result is dull gold or aged bronze, rather refined. If enough is added to each magnet to flow over and just fill the void around each magnet you get the more classic look of gorgeous wood and bronze. Two or more layers of blue tape with the right size hole would help restrain the epoxy.

I use this a lot, repairing ‘oops’ on my bench. Filling worm holes on spalted wormy maple, gives subtle flecks of gold. I use the West epoxy system which is truly transparent. Just a thought.

[Scott Clausen]

Derek, I have been going through ways to hide the ploughed groove for the panels. Watched a video (Rob Cosman) on four ways to hide. Cutting the last pin at 45 deg was not one of them. Thank You!

[Derek Cohen]

Scott, Rob Cosman was asked to demonstrate a mitred through dovetail. He declined, saying that he had never made one. I understand and partly accept this. It is not a joint to teach beginners.

My ranking for dovetails is, hardest to easiest: mitred through dovetails (as the joinery is 3D); through dovetails (as the joinery is 2D); and half-blind (as the joinery is 1D). Secret mitred dovetails are a notch up from half blind as it is the mitre that is relevant. The dovetails are never seen.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[glenn bradley]

Beautiful execution of what for many could have just been a utility object. I always enjoy your work and the way you elevate things to a higher level. Thanks for sharing the upgrade.

[Jerry Olexa]

Excellent work!!! Thank you.

[Jim Braun]

Jim

That is basically how I did it. Drilled a smidgeon with a forstner, just to set the perimeter, Then a little out of the centre (shy of depth). Finally excavated with gouges: out channel to shape, and in channel to finish.

The hollow was created in the same way as Alan Peters demos here … just smaller

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek, I could use some carving chisels. Just ordered a few; unfortunately they are on backorder. Once I give it a try I will let you know.
Jim

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

Scott, Rob Cosman was asked to demonstrate a mitred through dovetail. He declined, saying that he had never made one. I understand and partly accept this. It is not a joint to teach beginners.

My ranking for dovetails is, hardest to easiest: mitred through dovetails (as the joinery is 3D); through dovetails (as the joinery is 2D); and half-blind (as the joinery is 1D). Secret mitred dovetails are a notch up from half blind as it is the mitre that is relevant. The dovetails are never seen.

Regards from Perth

Derek

One thing I’ve seen on your site that I would love to learn is your curved dovetails. They looked fantastic. I’ve never seen them anywhere else