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Thread: 8" Oliver Jointer - Serial number info

  1. #1

    8" Oliver Jointer - Serial number info

    Hi all,

    I noticed some folks had a way to de-code the old Oliver jointer serial numbers. I googled for a while and couldn't find a good reference. Can anyone tell me about this machine? I have the opportunity to buy it at a good price.

    Model: 144-BD; serial#58159. Seems to be quite old.

    The reason I ask, I read a few threads that said this machine should be 3-phase however it's not, it's single phase. I also read that the -BD should be belt drive but again it's not, it's direct drive (at least it looks like it from the picture, see below).

    Lastly, I noticed the Shelix head's for these are $800. Any insight into why the heads for this machine are significantly more than most other 8" Byrd heads?





  2. #2
    Look at the VintageMachinery.org website. Go to the woodworking machine area and the photos section. There are several photos of 144 BD machines with serial numbers and dates of manufacture. There is one of a 1942 machine that looks identical to the one you are considering. Serial number is about 300 lower.

  3. #3
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    I looked over at the OWWM site and I think it says the 58,000 serial numbers started in May 1943.

  4. #4
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    It’s definitely a 3 ph machine. Be sure to check the head is absolutely in plane with the outfeed side. If it’s not your going to be stuck with one side cutting more them the other. The shaft with the bearings and bearing housing sit in the yolk. Where it’s sit is where it will be.
    With knives if one side is 1/64th higher it doesn’t matter because we set the knives to the table. I would not consider a insert head a upgrade.
    Good Luck it’s a nice looking one
    Aj

  5. #5
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    That looks to have the original direct drive three phase motor and head. The replacement heads are usually for the belt drive as the head and motor rotor are one piece. It is usually not economical to replace a direct drive head nor is it an upgrade. If the tables are still flat you will have a machine many times better than anything new at 3x the price. Gives you room to add a vfd. Dave

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    It’s definitely a 3 ph machine. Be sure to check the head is absolutely in plane with the outfeed side. If it’s not your going to be stuck with one side cutting more them the other. The shaft with the bearings and bearing housing sit in the yolk. Where it’s sit is where it will be.
    With knives if one side is 1/64th higher it doesn’t matter because we set the knives to the table. I would not consider a insert head a upgrade.
    Good Luck it’s a nice looking one
    Hi Andrew,

    Thanks for the info. What makes you say you wouldn't consider an insert head upgrade?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    That looks to have the original direct drive three phase motor and head. The replacement heads are usually for the belt drive as the head and motor rotor are one piece. It is usually not economical to replace a direct drive head nor is it an upgrade. If the tables are still flat you will have a machine many times better than anything new at 3x the price. Gives you room to add a vfd. Dave
    Hi Dave,

    Check out this image. It appears it was 3 phase and re-stamped to 1-phase, which makes me wonder if this machine company it originally came from switched it over somehow? Does this worry you in any way? I'm not very knowledgeable here, hoping you can steer me towards how to think about this.


  8. #8
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    First there no way to make the machine single phase with a rotor stater field coil. Aka shaftless motor.
    Maybe they were running it on a static phase converter. That why it’s been remarked?
    I don’t really feel like getting into the differences between a bryd head and knife head. The only reason I can think of changing out a direct drive head is something very worn out or the gibs missing?
    Those 8 inch Oliver used to be considered the smoothest quietist running jointers you could buy. Many that have owned one and sold it regretted it.
    I would like for you to consider buying a new machine with a insert head from the factory if thats what you want.
    Keep that one original.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    First there no way to make the machine single phase with a rotor stater field coil. Aka shaftless motor.
    Maybe they were running it on a static phase converter. That why it’s been remarked?
    I don’t really feel like getting into the differences between a bryd head and knife head. The only reason I can think of changing out a direct drive head is something very worn out or the gibs missing?
    Those 8 inch Oliver used to be considered the smoothest quietist running jointers you could buy. Many that have owned one and sold it regretted it.
    I would like for you to consider buying a new machine with a insert head from the factory if thats what you want.
    Keep that one original.
    Good Luck

    I see your point. I'll probably just keep it original then. The machine runs very smooth and quiet, I was impressed when I ran it. I verified it's indeed running on single phase 240v. This guy has had it for 10 years and it came to him that way.

  10. #10
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    Okay dokey when you find the need to set new knives and you don’t already have a set ready. Look for t1 high speed steel. The one Amanda sells are pretty good. If you need any tips how to set them perfectly let me know.
    I also have a Oliver not as old as yours
    Good Luck
    Aj

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    Okay dokey when you find the need to set new knives and you don’t already have a set ready. Look for t1 high speed steel. The one Amanda sells are pretty good. If you need any tips how to set them perfectly let me know.
    I also have a Oliver not as old as yours
    Good Luck
    Thanks for that offer, that's probably one of my bigger worries since I've never done it before. I looked for replacement knives on google and struggled to find them based on the Oliver model number. How do I look for knives? I assume it's a specific size or something.

  12. #12
    Wow, we had that exact model Oliver jointer in my high school shop class, it was a beautiful machine. That was a loooooooong time ago.

  13. #13
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    These are the size that should be in the machine https://www.amanatool.com/p-290-3-pi...-height-x.html. Although you could probably start with wider.
    Try contacting Eaglemachinery one word they have Olivers old paper work.

    I have one more piece of advice. When you buy new knives from anywhere be sure to weight them they should be very very close to the same weight. + or - a gram or 2 at the most. If you have one knife that heaver and it’s not slightly longer it might be thicker. Send the set back you don’t want one or two thicker then the others. Matching set period.
    Good Luck
    Last edited by Andrew Hughes; 01-10-2022 at 6:25 PM.
    Aj

  14. #14
    I was going to ask you who Amanda was from your post above.

    Last four almost brand knew knives from an auction Dimar are not the same thickness. Mel has mentioned this before and sure enough, His statement I believe was all cut from the same bar stock, my experience mirored his statement. Ill have to visit the company with them. I did balance them already but looked at them they are not even straight. Good steel 18 percent stuff but cant accept one being thinner and not straight. Not a big deal at 25.00 canadian had I paid the full price then yes. Some say balance doesnt matter on a jointer head as its so large more so on a shaper with sometimes big overhang at least if you are from the land of old school.

  15. #15
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    Do you suppose that is a static converter on the back or does it contain the start and run caps for the converted motor? I've never seen a three phase converted to single so curious. Dave

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