[OP]
Contributor
I have a cabinet saw, but I recently purchased a Hammer sliding table saw. I was wondering if anyone knows of a service to rebore my blades to be compatible with the Hammer? Or if it is worth it?
I asked my sales rep, but I didn't get much of an answer. I thought maybe someone on here might know.
Contributor
Most any blade sharpener can bore blades; however, i had several places turn me away recently when i tried to bore a dado set to 30mm with pins. For whatever reason, the pins are what caused folks to reject the work. I ended up reboring the set to 1.25" for my shaper and T17.Originally Posted by Jacob Mac
Depending on the blades, it might be a wash to sell the used ones and buy new. Reboring/sharpening will probably run you $40-50 per blade. I think redoing that dado set was like $100. One bit of advice i would give you for your new saw is make sure all your blades are the same plate thickness/kerf. On a right tilt cabinet saw, this doesnt matter because the rip fence scale will always be accurate. On a sliding saw, this does matter because thicker/thinner blades will throw off your crosscut scale by 1/32"+/-.
Contributor
I would sell your current blades and replace them with Tenryu industrial blades which in my opinion, (and many others on the Felder Owners Group forum) an excellent blade choice. Another advantage for me is I have 3 of their blades and all have the same kerf width and they are not terribly expensive in comparison to other premium brands. I have their IW-30028CBD# rip blade & IW-30050CBD3 and IW-300100D3 which I use the most. First 3 numbers is diameter 300mm, next 2-3 is number of teeth ie 28 tooth, 50 tooth 100 tooth. The last blade I listed the 100 tooth TCG (triple chip grind) is excellent for composite materials and plywood and is $99.
Contributor
CT tool does this for me.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
Or Kanafusa
Tool and die maker friend used to do mine, it was so fast it took him longer to find the tooling in his shop. From antique memory he located exact center on his milling machine. Then he drilled but undersize and some other tool maybe a broach or something that did the final. If he was around now id ask if what he used was a few thou oversize. He drilled Dadoes and other stuff to go on shapers.
Nother friend did it for me in the past and he did it on a lathe which was different but he was accurate. Be nice to have a milling machine and some tooling hold downs vices etc.
Contributor
As others have said, any tooling shop can bore them, I used FS Tools when I had mine bored.
Do you have the drawing for boring the blades?
Regards, Rod.
Contributor
So, I actually called Ridge Carbide a couple of years back, specifically to ask this question on behalf of a Felder customer. The answer they gave me was a hard “No”. According to the gentleman I spoke with, too much risk in re-boring a saw blade that already has been used. Or possibly, there is no profit in it for them, which would also be a fair answer. To the OP, you can get great Tenryu blades on Amazon at fair market value if you don’t want to deal with our e-shop. I wouldn’t overthink this.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
Contributor
The Forrest website says they do it for $12.50: https://www.forrestblades.com/forrest-factory-carbide-saw-blade-sharpening/
Member
Do you consider Tenryu better than Frued?
Contributor
Bob, I haven't used any Freud blades on my sliding table saw so I can't answer that. But I find the Tenryu equal to high end Forrest blades at a lower cost. I have been totally satisfied with my Tenryu blades.
Member
I had a dado set bored out for my K3 and the result was not good despite us being very careful with set up. It left tracks through the bottom of the cut so I gave the set to a sawyer and he set it up and ground down the diameter of the set until it was all the same and then sharpened all the cutters. The set (CMT) was brand new and I acquired it at a knock down price because it had been ordered wrong and when all the machining had been done it gave a perfect finish. It is 8" and is really to big for the K3 as it limits the height due to the table insert brackets so care has to be taken when using it, having said that I have yet to find a job where it was height limited. Keep in mind the pin holes have to be drilled and a dado conversion kit for the arbour is needed as well. Not a straight forward job but done well the results are worth it.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Contributor
I think trying to bore with a drill press is a no-go. Even the heavy 'industrial grade' Swedish models we've got. I don't think they have angular contact bearings in them, just radials and a thrust bearing.
You need a mill, and should sweep the tips as a check after aligning the hole. I'd rough the hole out with a carbide endmill and finish with a boring head. A dado set would require some thought ...
Contributor
He made his decision a year ago.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks everyone. I probably will just go the tenryu route. Seems easiest and has the best chance of eliminating potential problems.
Contributor
Jacob, for me a blade is $100 to $200 dollars, worth $20 for me to bore my blades.
Another issue is that if you don’t want to remove the scoring saw blade, you’re limited to a 10” main blade, I suggest you bore your existing blades unless they’re junk.
I own one 12” blade which is a Felder ATB 48 tooth I use for Timbers more than 3” thick………Rod
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